Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - Dryer Stopped in Mid Cycle - No Light When Door Open

Model Number: HYE3460AYW Brand: Maytag Age: 5 years

From some other posts, I think I need to test the thermal fuse and the door switch. I can't find the thermal fuse from diagrams I have found. I am trying to locate the physical placement of the thermal fuse on the dryer. Also, not being too handy, I need to know what it looks like.

This sound like the right approach?

Thank you.

PS: Already checked circuit breaker and plug.

This is one of the better sites for diagrams that I have found...http://www.appliancepartspros.com/sect/w/v/6/wv6t4od6b5.gif

Its between the neutral and the door switch and I see where the bracket is..but I don't see the fuse listed as a part...strange.

Maybe one of the Pro's will have more info.....

Saw that schematic also but I am not handy enough to go from that. Too clutsy. Need pictures!


Thanks.

pop the top with a putty knife. the thermal fuse is on the right side of heater box at top rear of dryer, has the 2 white wires going to it. kinda hard to see and get to

Thank you, David.

I have checked the thermal fuse and door switch and both have continuity. Also checked the power plug from the outlet posts to the terminals inside. Also good.

The wife heard the timer ding and clicking so it sounds like there is power inside the dryer, just not to the door switch, drum or heating components.

Anybody have any ideas?:confused:

PS: The following web site is great for explaining how to test: eHow | How To Do Just About Everything! | How To Videos & Articles (http://www.ehow.com)

Do you have 240 volts at recepticlke? (do not just add 120 and 120), and did you test continuity with at least 1 wire unplugged?

Ecman good suggestion, did you check heater element while there? Dryer will run but not heat if voltage not right. Ck. both legs of outlet.

motor circuit goes through the timer also. look at the diagram and check continuity across the terminals. its usually not the motor when its not making any sounds at all

Thanks for the replies, Guys.

Do you have 240 volts at recepticlke? (do not just add 120 and 120), and did you test continuity with at least 1 wire unplugged?

Checked each leg and across both flat leads with plug partially in. Got 110, 110 and 220, respectively. So power seems good.

When retesting the door switch, I realized that there are 2 terminals on one side of the switch, one is white like the other side and one is pink with a plastic cover (to isolate it from white lead - and me?). Now the resistance test results with one lead disconnected and no power to dryer are:

Switch Off:
white to white - infinity
white to pink - zero!

Switch On:
white to white - zero
white to pink - zero

The dryer light still is non-operational when dryer is plugged in. Don't know what the pink lead feeds, but it is shorted in both tests. Does this sound like a bad switch?:confused:

PS: Anybody know what the pink lead feeds?

Yes, I see why you have the ! mark for your second test. I'm not sure. You could try to decipher off a schematic probably in your console, or call up an appliance parts store, and ask if they have one in stock, and if they mind either testing one for you, or you going there to do it.

But off hand, the fact they both close when switch depressed, it sounds good, to me.

Have you accessed the machine to look at all it's wires, to make sure a wire did not burn up? That would be the first thing I would do. Let's face it - if you have to replace some part, you have to have access anyway. I've replaced burned wire sections in dryers over the years. Then beyond this, we get into the motor swtich, motor and timer. But the burnt wire scenario is something you can see without testing.

Oh. Did you test the thermal with a wire disconnected off it?

jerry...please clarify...the schematic I referenced shows the wire colors. Do you mean lid down and lid up or equivalent?

That reading that you have is just wrong....you should have open /closed in one position..and closed/open in the other.

Lid/door switches are probably one of the most common problems seen. Take it out of the circuit and test it ..see if it gets the same results to verify.

But yes...sounds like a bad switch.

Thanks, EC.

Yes, I see why you have the ! mark for your second test. I'm not sure. You could try to decipher off a schematic probably in your console,

This is the schematic for dryer. I'm not much on wiring and electricity which is limited to some DC power physics course I had way in the past:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=1351104&pkw_=basket&model_id=5177495&NewWindow=1

I see the pink goes to the cylinder (door?) light which may explain the "no door light" situation, but I am lost once it re-emerges as black to the timer which seems important but beyond me. Also the door switch has "N.O." and "N.C." designations which means normally open and closed, I guess. Other than that I don't understand what the pink terminal does.

or call up an appliance parts store, and ask if they have one in stock, and if they mind either testing one for you, or you going there to do it.

But off hand, the fact they both close when switch depressed, it sounds good, to me.

Sounds like a good idea that I may have to try if all else fails.

Have you accessed the machine to look at all it's wires, to make sure a wire did not burn up? That would be the first thing I would do. Let's face it - if you have to replace some part, you have to have access anyway. I've replaced burned wire sections in dryers over the years. Then beyond this, we get into the motor swtich, motor and timer. But the burnt wire scenario is something you can see without testing.

Haven't looked at all wires, but can't see any black around power plug terminals. I eye-balled all terminals that I can see with the top open and other than a bit of dust here and there see no black, burned appearance at any terminals.

Oh. Did you test the thermal with a wire disconnected off it?

Retested the thermal fuse WITH a lead removed (think I did this before) and it shows zero resistance like it should at room temp, I believe.

Thanks, Gunguy. My last post must have crossed yours. I attached the dryer schematic for my model in that post. Please check what I said there.

jerry...please clarify...the schematic I referenced shows the wire colors. Do you mean lid down and lid up or equivalent?

That reading that you have is just wrong....you should have open /closed in one position..and closed/open in the other.

Lid/door switches are probably one of the most common problems seen. Take it out of the circuit and test it ..see if it gets the same results to verify.

But yes...sounds like a bad switch.

Not sure what you mean by lid up/lid down. All testing was done with power removed. All problems resulted from normal operation with door and dryer top closed. That answer your concern?:confused:

When you say "you should have open /closed in one position..and closed/open in the other" I assume that you mean testing resistance from the pink THEN the white lead terminal on one side of the switch to the single white lead terminal on the other side with the door switch not operated then operated by pushing. That's what I did with the single white terminal side lead removed for each test for 4 tests total. The results are in my previous post with the white to pink test showing a short or zero resistance whether the door switch was or was not operated. Given this test procedure, are you saying that these results indicate a bad switch?:confused:

Yeah...your switch is either closed from white to pink on one side and open from white to pink on the other side..then reversed when in the other position...but you really need to disconnect all wires to accurately test. I may have missed that you did that. You should have 3 contacts..according to the schematic...2 whites..1 pink...may be another prong that isn't used?

Yeah...your switch is either closed from white to pink on one side and open from white to pink on the other side..then reversed when in the other position...but you really need to disconnect all wires to accurately test. I may have missed that you did that. You should have 3 contacts..according to the schematic...2 whites..1 pink...may be another prong that isn't used?

Nope, just 3 prongs, white and pink on one and white on other.

Getting a new switch. Wouldn't you know none to be found. Maybe it'll come in tomorrow. Will post results to close loop or whine some more. Don't ya hate amateurs?:rolleyes:

Thanks.

Nope..no hate here..I'm one as well....

I may be a Mod..but thats because I have lots of time to try to help..not because I know it all.

Wasn't the door switch. Throwing hands up in the air and having service tech in today.

Got some advise elsewhere and they recommend the following: Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Thermostat kit, part number: AP4242472 (http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4242472)

I homed in on the large 53-0771 High limit thermostat because it was visible and the advise did not explain well. The tech actually had a kit that replaces both (note the there is a fuse for electric and NG which explains the 3 parts in the kit).

That was an expensive OOPS!:(

Thanks for the help, Guys.

Retested the thermal fuse WITH a lead removed (think I did this before) and it shows zero resistance like it should at room temp, I believe.

I quoted the oops. :D

Just as you have to break a few eggs to make an omlet, so goes the hard knocks in diagnosing sometimes. Now you have learned something, and you will be wiser for it in the future.

Glad you got it.