Wells, Sump Pumps and Septic Sewage Systems - How to pull well pump when discharge is 6' under wellhead.
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MikefromMI
10-24-09, 02:45 PM
Hello,
My well pump went.....
Upon pulling my well cap of I found only the electrical up top. The discharge pipe looks to be about 6' down. There's an 1" PVC pipe from that area to the top of the wellhead with a T on top. I don't want to twist or pull in fear I'll damage the discharge tube. Am I going to have to dig this up?
My well pump went.....
Upon pulling my well cap of I found only the electrical up top. The discharge pipe looks to be about 6' down. There's an 1" PVC pipe from that area to the top of the wellhead with a T on top. I don't want to twist or pull in fear I'll damage the discharge tube. Am I going to have to dig this up?
shane21
10-24-09, 03:06 PM
Ironically the fitting connection you see down the well is actually what prevents you from having to dig it up to pull the pump. It is called a pitless adapter and is a sort of "quick connect" fitting that makes it much easier to replace the pump.
You need to disconnect the pitless adapter and pull it, the pipe and the pump out of the well. If this is the first time you have tried this I would recommend using caution and trying to figure out why type of pitless adapter you have. There are probably 4 common types and all 4 require a different technique to "loosen" them and then "tighten" them back in place. Unless you are familiar with the procedure I would recommend calling a professional as certain brands can be very tricky to disconnect and reconnect.
If you want to try to tackle it yourself I can try to help you figure out what type it is if you can either take a picture of it for me or try to describe it. The problem is that it's in a 6" hole - give or take - and there is poor lighting and a piece of PVC pipe in the way...
I cannot imagine any installer putting a piece of PVC pipe in the connection to pull the pitless with unless it is a Dickens brand "slide-out" connector so my guess is that is probably what your dealing with. I work in Ohio so I don't know what type is most common in Michigan so just guessing is all I can do for you. If it is a Dicken JRS-10 or LDS-10 slide type pitless then just pulling straight up on the pipe is the method to get it loose. If it isn't that type though and you pull the PVC pipe out of the connection down there you will be in for some real issues then. Even if it is a slide type there is potential for stripping that PVC while trying to pull it. I never recommend leaving a pipe connected unless it is the type of pitless which actually requires one.
Do you know how deep the well is, what size pump is in it, what material it's hanging on? The issue with doing this yourself is that if you drop the the thing after you get it loose or while pulling it you could cost yourself twice as much getting it back out vs. what you would have paid to have it replaced originally.
I'll try to check the thread here a couple times over the next couple hours and help how I can since I'm guessing you cannot get someone there at 5PM on a Saturday and getting someone there on a Sunday will probably be even more difficult - or EXPENSIVE.
You need to disconnect the pitless adapter and pull it, the pipe and the pump out of the well. If this is the first time you have tried this I would recommend using caution and trying to figure out why type of pitless adapter you have. There are probably 4 common types and all 4 require a different technique to "loosen" them and then "tighten" them back in place. Unless you are familiar with the procedure I would recommend calling a professional as certain brands can be very tricky to disconnect and reconnect.
If you want to try to tackle it yourself I can try to help you figure out what type it is if you can either take a picture of it for me or try to describe it. The problem is that it's in a 6" hole - give or take - and there is poor lighting and a piece of PVC pipe in the way...
I cannot imagine any installer putting a piece of PVC pipe in the connection to pull the pitless with unless it is a Dickens brand "slide-out" connector so my guess is that is probably what your dealing with. I work in Ohio so I don't know what type is most common in Michigan so just guessing is all I can do for you. If it is a Dicken JRS-10 or LDS-10 slide type pitless then just pulling straight up on the pipe is the method to get it loose. If it isn't that type though and you pull the PVC pipe out of the connection down there you will be in for some real issues then. Even if it is a slide type there is potential for stripping that PVC while trying to pull it. I never recommend leaving a pipe connected unless it is the type of pitless which actually requires one.
Do you know how deep the well is, what size pump is in it, what material it's hanging on? The issue with doing this yourself is that if you drop the the thing after you get it loose or while pulling it you could cost yourself twice as much getting it back out vs. what you would have paid to have it replaced originally.
I'll try to check the thread here a couple times over the next couple hours and help how I can since I'm guessing you cannot get someone there at 5PM on a Saturday and getting someone there on a Sunday will probably be even more difficult - or EXPENSIVE.
MikefromMI
10-24-09, 03:23 PM
Shane, Just took a couple shot's. What's the best way to get them to you. Thanks!
shane21
10-24-09, 03:28 PM
Mike,
I'm leaving work now so will check for the photos when I get home. You will either need to upload them to a hosting site and then post the link here in the forums or you can just email them directly to me [*******]
If you can post them here it's probably best as then other people can give advice if they access the pics before I do and maybe down the road the pics may help someone else in your position.
I'm leaving work now so will check for the photos when I get home. You will either need to upload them to a hosting site and then post the link here in the forums or you can just email them directly to me [*******]
If you can post them here it's probably best as then other people can give advice if they access the pics before I do and maybe down the road the pics may help someone else in your position.
MikefromMI
10-24-09, 03:37 PM
Going to run up to TSC and get the replacement pump. Wanted to have the parts to compare. But it's cold and rainy here. Tomorrow forecast clear. I can always return it. Thanks for your help.
shane21
10-24-09, 04:33 PM
Mike,
Get ready for a novel...
That pitless adapter is called a Wells Brand pitless. It is - as your luck would have it - probably the hardest to pull and line back up... The first thing to do is mark the location of that T-handle on the casing. IT will need to be in the EXACT same position when you get finished replacing the pump and are ready to hook the pitless back up. I usually use a Sharpie marker or something to mark which way the "T" fitting on top is looking. Tracing it onto the top of the casing works fine. Also notice there is arrow scribed into the top of that T-handle and it will need to be aiming in the same direction (the unit won't work if lined up but facing 180 degrees in the wrong direction).
Now for the hard part...there is a type of bolt down inside that 1" PVC pipe that needs to be loosened in order to remove the pitless and pull the pump. It isn't a standard bolt however. It looks similar to a bolt as it is a shaft about 1.5" total length and is designed to thread into a receiving hole inside the unit itself. As it threads in it pushes the small "arm" down there out against the casing and "smashes" the o-ring seal against the casing on the other side where the hole is located to supply water to the house.
Back to the "bolt"... rather than having a regular hex head it has a head that flattens out and gets wider as it rises (about a total of .5" above the threaded shaft). Think of it as taking a standard bolt, cutting off the hex head and connecting a regular coin nickel in the upright position to the remaining threaded shaft. That will give you a rough idea of what it looks like. The only comparison I can give is this picture http://s7g1.scene7.com/is/image/BandQ/0000003232484_001c_v001_zp?. It looks very similar in design to that picture EXCEPT there is no piece perpendicular to the direction of the shaft and the "head' of the bolt in the pitless is looking straight up at you and the threaded shaft is threaded straight down into the pitless.
To loosen it the best thing to do would be buy a piece of 1/2" black steel or galvanized steel pipe and pound one end of it to start flattening it. You will want to flatten it fairly equally on both sides. The trick is to deform the pipe in such a way that it flattens out and distorts the opening as close to a rectangular oval as possible while still making sure the opening is about 3/16" - 1/4" of an inch wide so it can slide over the "nickel shaped head" down below.
I would recommend getting it close and then trying it. just slide the new pipe into the existing PVC pipe and start turning your "wrench pipe" until you feel it drop over that "bolt head" down there. It will be something you have to feel as you cannot see it. If it doesn't work the first time pull it out and flatten it a bit more. The trick is to get it flat enough (as you flatten it the opening becomes wider in one direction and narrower in the other) so it slides over the "bolt head" below. If you flatten it too much it won't slide over it, if you don't flatten it enough it won't slide over it. I always recommend leaving it a bit too circular to start as it is easier to flatten it out a bit more than try to undo the flattening if you smash it too much.
Once you get it to slide over the "head" you just grab the "wrench" pipe you made and loosen like you would a normally threaded bolt (righty tighty lefty loosey). I recommend marking the pipe and counting how many times you turn it as you will need to turn it roughly the same amount when you put it back together so it doesn't leak (in the picture it looks like you have PVC casing so over tightening could crack the PVC casing and under tightening would allow the o-ring to leak). You don't need to loosen it too much. Make sure not to thread it all the way out as trying to thread it back in is almost impossible. I'd say maybe 4 or 5 full turns should do the trick. After 4 full turns try to pull it up, if it's not loose try another turn. If you get a full 7 or 8 turns and it still isn't loose then you may have other issues. After it's loose you can then pull your home made "wrench" off and lay it on the ground to get it out of the way.
Once you get it loose smaller the "arm" down there will start to release and the pitless will be easily pulled straight up and out of the well. Make sure NOT to spin the existing 1" pvc pipe inside the pitless adapter down below or to spin the T handle around the 1" PVC as everything has to line up correctly when you finish so it doesn't leak. If it spins your marks will no longer work for lining up the fitting when you're ready to put it back together.
Finally, I noticed in the picture what looked like a small piece of white plastic casing to the side of the pitless adapter. That should NOT be there and could very well be a problem when you try to pull the pump. If you can rig up something to pull that out first I HIGHLY recommend it. A clothes hanger bent into a hook on one end or something will probably do the job but it may take some time to get it out. Dropping it further down the well is bad news so if you're afraid you cannot get it out then you can try to pull it out with the pitless but it may lodge the pitless in the casing opening.
I'm tired of typing and hope this is thorough enough to help you. If you have questions post here and I will try to check the thread between things I'm doing around my own house. Good luck and again just getting the pitless loose doesn't mean you out of the woods. Without knowing how deep the well is, what size pump is in it or what material the pipe is hanging on, you may still have a problem getting the pump out
Get ready for a novel...
That pitless adapter is called a Wells Brand pitless. It is - as your luck would have it - probably the hardest to pull and line back up... The first thing to do is mark the location of that T-handle on the casing. IT will need to be in the EXACT same position when you get finished replacing the pump and are ready to hook the pitless back up. I usually use a Sharpie marker or something to mark which way the "T" fitting on top is looking. Tracing it onto the top of the casing works fine. Also notice there is arrow scribed into the top of that T-handle and it will need to be aiming in the same direction (the unit won't work if lined up but facing 180 degrees in the wrong direction).
Now for the hard part...there is a type of bolt down inside that 1" PVC pipe that needs to be loosened in order to remove the pitless and pull the pump. It isn't a standard bolt however. It looks similar to a bolt as it is a shaft about 1.5" total length and is designed to thread into a receiving hole inside the unit itself. As it threads in it pushes the small "arm" down there out against the casing and "smashes" the o-ring seal against the casing on the other side where the hole is located to supply water to the house.
Back to the "bolt"... rather than having a regular hex head it has a head that flattens out and gets wider as it rises (about a total of .5" above the threaded shaft). Think of it as taking a standard bolt, cutting off the hex head and connecting a regular coin nickel in the upright position to the remaining threaded shaft. That will give you a rough idea of what it looks like. The only comparison I can give is this picture http://s7g1.scene7.com/is/image/BandQ/0000003232484_001c_v001_zp?. It looks very similar in design to that picture EXCEPT there is no piece perpendicular to the direction of the shaft and the "head' of the bolt in the pitless is looking straight up at you and the threaded shaft is threaded straight down into the pitless.
To loosen it the best thing to do would be buy a piece of 1/2" black steel or galvanized steel pipe and pound one end of it to start flattening it. You will want to flatten it fairly equally on both sides. The trick is to deform the pipe in such a way that it flattens out and distorts the opening as close to a rectangular oval as possible while still making sure the opening is about 3/16" - 1/4" of an inch wide so it can slide over the "nickel shaped head" down below.
I would recommend getting it close and then trying it. just slide the new pipe into the existing PVC pipe and start turning your "wrench pipe" until you feel it drop over that "bolt head" down there. It will be something you have to feel as you cannot see it. If it doesn't work the first time pull it out and flatten it a bit more. The trick is to get it flat enough (as you flatten it the opening becomes wider in one direction and narrower in the other) so it slides over the "bolt head" below. If you flatten it too much it won't slide over it, if you don't flatten it enough it won't slide over it. I always recommend leaving it a bit too circular to start as it is easier to flatten it out a bit more than try to undo the flattening if you smash it too much.
Once you get it to slide over the "head" you just grab the "wrench" pipe you made and loosen like you would a normally threaded bolt (righty tighty lefty loosey). I recommend marking the pipe and counting how many times you turn it as you will need to turn it roughly the same amount when you put it back together so it doesn't leak (in the picture it looks like you have PVC casing so over tightening could crack the PVC casing and under tightening would allow the o-ring to leak). You don't need to loosen it too much. Make sure not to thread it all the way out as trying to thread it back in is almost impossible. I'd say maybe 4 or 5 full turns should do the trick. After 4 full turns try to pull it up, if it's not loose try another turn. If you get a full 7 or 8 turns and it still isn't loose then you may have other issues. After it's loose you can then pull your home made "wrench" off and lay it on the ground to get it out of the way.
Once you get it loose smaller the "arm" down there will start to release and the pitless will be easily pulled straight up and out of the well. Make sure NOT to spin the existing 1" pvc pipe inside the pitless adapter down below or to spin the T handle around the 1" PVC as everything has to line up correctly when you finish so it doesn't leak. If it spins your marks will no longer work for lining up the fitting when you're ready to put it back together.
Finally, I noticed in the picture what looked like a small piece of white plastic casing to the side of the pitless adapter. That should NOT be there and could very well be a problem when you try to pull the pump. If you can rig up something to pull that out first I HIGHLY recommend it. A clothes hanger bent into a hook on one end or something will probably do the job but it may take some time to get it out. Dropping it further down the well is bad news so if you're afraid you cannot get it out then you can try to pull it out with the pitless but it may lodge the pitless in the casing opening.
I'm tired of typing and hope this is thorough enough to help you. If you have questions post here and I will try to check the thread between things I'm doing around my own house. Good luck and again just getting the pitless loose doesn't mean you out of the woods. Without knowing how deep the well is, what size pump is in it or what material the pipe is hanging on, you may still have a problem getting the pump out
MikefromMI
10-24-09, 09:56 PM
Man,
Never had a reply that long in my life. Your a good man!
OK, it's worse yet. I went back out to look down the piece of PVC. The installer kinda mashed the well head cap down just hard enough to bow the pvc permanently. When trying to counter the problem the tee on the top is low enough in the tube to hit the side.
BTW I noticed "wells inc" on the well head cover. That confirms your wells brand comment. Now, try to find anything about the bugger.
Ya, figured on removing the piece the buttheads dropped down there first.
Basically I'm smashing the pipe end to drop down the pvc pipe to turn a "car key" facing up at me.
Pump is a Red Jacket - 50cnw1-cn9bc - 1/2hp 12gpm. I can't remember 16 years ago what the fella told me. But I do remember him saying the well was quite a ways down and the mounted the pump 1/2 way. Believe 200'ish...
Replacement is Shur-Dri - SD-A202 - 3/4hp 10gpm
I got everything you threw out there. Just going to have to take my time with the bugger. I may have to mark things unconventionally as the tee may have to be removed in order to try the tool I have to make. If it was earlier in the year I'd attach the back hoe and replace all this crap. I'll keep things posted up here. I have to travel to Buffalo for work Mon. So I have to have something rigged tomorrow even if the kid has to fill jugs for the week. It will be good training for him (19) and he'll learn some respect for plumbing. Thanks again for all your time. It's greatly appreciated.
Never had a reply that long in my life. Your a good man!
OK, it's worse yet. I went back out to look down the piece of PVC. The installer kinda mashed the well head cap down just hard enough to bow the pvc permanently. When trying to counter the problem the tee on the top is low enough in the tube to hit the side.
BTW I noticed "wells inc" on the well head cover. That confirms your wells brand comment. Now, try to find anything about the bugger.
Ya, figured on removing the piece the buttheads dropped down there first.
Basically I'm smashing the pipe end to drop down the pvc pipe to turn a "car key" facing up at me.
Pump is a Red Jacket - 50cnw1-cn9bc - 1/2hp 12gpm. I can't remember 16 years ago what the fella told me. But I do remember him saying the well was quite a ways down and the mounted the pump 1/2 way. Believe 200'ish...
Replacement is Shur-Dri - SD-A202 - 3/4hp 10gpm
I got everything you threw out there. Just going to have to take my time with the bugger. I may have to mark things unconventionally as the tee may have to be removed in order to try the tool I have to make. If it was earlier in the year I'd attach the back hoe and replace all this crap. I'll keep things posted up here. I have to travel to Buffalo for work Mon. So I have to have something rigged tomorrow even if the kid has to fill jugs for the week. It will be good training for him (19) and he'll learn some respect for plumbing. Thanks again for all your time. It's greatly appreciated.
Wayne Mitchell
10-25-09, 10:19 AM
Mike - I am an ardent DIYer but for me some jobs are better left to the pro's. When my well pump check valve went bad I was going to replace it myself. Then I thought about hauling up 250' of hose, the pump etc. I decided to call the company that dug the well. They came out pulled the pump, replaced the check valve and put everything back together in about an hour. It cost $150.
It might pay to call some local well companies for an estimate.
It might pay to call some local well companies for an estimate.
GregH
10-25-09, 10:42 AM
Shane,
I edited your post to remove your email address.
Email addresses in posts are not allowed, as these forums are regularly spidered for these and you WILL get spam if left.
It is also not fair to others who may be reading this thread.
To show an image here you can upload them to a free site like Photo Bucket and provide a link.
You can also use the buttons to have the image appear in the post.
Just resize so the pic is not too large............640x480 shows well.
Greg
I edited your post to remove your email address.
Email addresses in posts are not allowed, as these forums are regularly spidered for these and you WILL get spam if left.
It is also not fair to others who may be reading this thread.
To show an image here you can upload them to a free site like Photo Bucket and provide a link.
You can also use the buttons to have the image appear in the post.
Just resize so the pic is not too large............640x480 shows well.
Greg
MikefromMI
10-25-09, 03:05 PM
I hear you Wayne. I've put serious thought into having someone come out. Problem is I live in the sticks and I need it done today. I've also never had too call in the pro's for anything (@43).
That being said, the problem has changed. The pump is working fine. The darn discharge pipe has let loose from the bottom of the pitless. I couldn't see the end of the pipe till I removed the piece of PVC dropped down there when the installation was done.
Here's the dilemma... The electrical wire's are very tight up-top. The wire caps are down about 6". I believe the wires are suspending everything (may be wrong.) I tried very carefully to pull on the wires. Keep in mind I'm pulling up from beyond the wire caps. So I was very careful. I couldn't get anything to budge. Since I'm going to have to connect the back hoe up anyway - that damn "wells pitless" is GONE! What a piece. I made the tool Shane talked about. I felt it drop over the key. Felt it loosen. But nothing is happening. I didn't yank on it but put serious lift on it with the front end loader till I was uncomfortable. Then let back off.
I'm going to need a block of instruction. Per Shane & reading - I'm using the Dicken JRS-10. They seem to be around 60$. Now the hard part. If the pipe was bottomed out I could just cut the wires dig it up and cut the casting. Install the new pitless a little lower. Cut the old hole out and buy a coupler to reconnect the upper and glue it up. But if the darn wires are suspending the pipe/pump. I'll have to carefully hook on to those. Dig the area out and cut the pvc until I can reach down and grab the pipe. This will be much more effort as I'd have to slide the pvc up the suspending wires till I could grad the pipe and suspend it and then cut the wires and remove the upper PVC. Bring it on!!! I just ordered a new Sportsman Condo SC2. When I get this finished it will have paid for it. So long as I'm done by Nov. 15th. lol Look at it this way. If worse comes to worst, I'll call dad... ;) Although he may have me building a hoist and suspending a bucket... lmao
My main question. Is it ok to cut out the old pitless and repair with a coupler. I don't know the codes.. What else could you do? And common sense would tell me to put the new pitless under the coupler as everything above is just for electrical and access. Shane??
That being said, the problem has changed. The pump is working fine. The darn discharge pipe has let loose from the bottom of the pitless. I couldn't see the end of the pipe till I removed the piece of PVC dropped down there when the installation was done.
Here's the dilemma... The electrical wire's are very tight up-top. The wire caps are down about 6". I believe the wires are suspending everything (may be wrong.) I tried very carefully to pull on the wires. Keep in mind I'm pulling up from beyond the wire caps. So I was very careful. I couldn't get anything to budge. Since I'm going to have to connect the back hoe up anyway - that damn "wells pitless" is GONE! What a piece. I made the tool Shane talked about. I felt it drop over the key. Felt it loosen. But nothing is happening. I didn't yank on it but put serious lift on it with the front end loader till I was uncomfortable. Then let back off.
I'm going to need a block of instruction. Per Shane & reading - I'm using the Dicken JRS-10. They seem to be around 60$. Now the hard part. If the pipe was bottomed out I could just cut the wires dig it up and cut the casting. Install the new pitless a little lower. Cut the old hole out and buy a coupler to reconnect the upper and glue it up. But if the darn wires are suspending the pipe/pump. I'll have to carefully hook on to those. Dig the area out and cut the pvc until I can reach down and grab the pipe. This will be much more effort as I'd have to slide the pvc up the suspending wires till I could grad the pipe and suspend it and then cut the wires and remove the upper PVC. Bring it on!!! I just ordered a new Sportsman Condo SC2. When I get this finished it will have paid for it. So long as I'm done by Nov. 15th. lol Look at it this way. If worse comes to worst, I'll call dad... ;) Although he may have me building a hoist and suspending a bucket... lmao
My main question. Is it ok to cut out the old pitless and repair with a coupler. I don't know the codes.. What else could you do? And common sense would tell me to put the new pitless under the coupler as everything above is just for electrical and access. Shane??
MikefromMI
10-25-09, 03:12 PM
Thanks for the info Greg =
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MikefromMI
10-25-09, 03:56 PM
So I've been thinking... At the end of the day I have to get down far enough to grab the broken away pipe and pull it back up. I'm just going to hook up the backhoe and dig down to the pipe. Cut the casting. Then rotozip the upper casting in half and remove it. I'm guessing 8'. I'll install the new pitless and coupler on a new piece of 4". Slide it over the pipe (once pulled up) and glue it to the existing casting. Then install the saddle and lower back to it's new seat. Run it till I see clear water for a few. And connect it back to the house run...
Anyone feel free to pipe in. I have till 10/31 to make a plan. Still have to find the pitless.
The jrs-10 has threads all the way around. What couplers do I use on the discharge pipe?
Thanks all...
Anyone feel free to pipe in. I have till 10/31 to make a plan. Still have to find the pitless.
The jrs-10 has threads all the way around. What couplers do I use on the discharge pipe?
Thanks all...
shane21
10-25-09, 08:45 PM
Mike it doesn't look like the wires are tight in your pics like i would suspect from a 200' deep pump and pipe hanging from them... are you sure the the drop pipe let lose? I have pulled many a pump by the wires (some in excess of 500 lbs.) so I worry that if you cannot even budge it by the wires that something else may be going on here.
It may be that the piece of PVC we saw in the photo was only one of the pieces that fell in and the other fell down and lodged the pump in. Again even at 200' a 1/2HP pump would be heavy but it should move. Also if the model is a 1/2HP 12 GPM then you must have a high static level (making it feel lighter when you pull it) or that pump wouldn't pump $hit for pressure. Off the top of my head I don't think it would pump over 50 PSI if the water level ever dropped below about 100' Also maybe the pump is hanging on steel pipe? Again in Ohio steel pipe is really rare anymore but I do still see it and I don't know what is typical in Michigan.
The down side to a potential deep well with a shallow pump setting is that if you lose it trying to pull by the wires it may fall 100' down before it hits bottom and be a MF'er to fish out. Yes it can be done but almost certainly will require a pro at that point.
I would suggest getting a hold of the wires at all cost before doing anything else at this point. Like I said, the worst thing I could see happening at this point is losing the pump down the well. If you plan on replacing the pitless or even if you have to remove the T handle on the current set-up, then I'd suggest making sure it's all the way loose by turning that "key bolt" all the way out if needed. If you are sure it's loose and the pitless won't lift out then you can try whacking the small "arm" with a spud bar or something to drive it down. In the pic you posted, the "arm" is on the left side of the pic up against the casing. It is connected to the pitless with a pin and pivots so it can "swing" in away from the casing to loosen the pitless and swing out against the casing to tighten the pitless. The "key bolt" is what forces the "arm" out or allows it to swing in. If you try to drive it down be careful driving something between the "arm" and the casing as PVC casing can be brittle and you don't want to crack it.
Are there 3 wires going down the well or only 2? If there is 3 and you feel adventurous I'd try cutting a hole in the PVC casing about 12" down from the top (or whatever length needed to give you about 12" of wire to pull out the hole you cut) reach in through the hole and cut one wire, pull it out through the hole and attach it to something. Then do the second wire and attach it to the same thing as the first or whatever you can use. Repeat for the third wire. Just make sure all wires are pulled to about the same level of taunt so all 3 share the load of whatever is down the well. I have pulled a pump by just bending the wires down over the top lip of the casing and holding them tight against the casing allowing the wire "crimped" over the top lip to support the weight of the pump until I could get another bite on the wire with whatever i was pulling it with.
Lastly are you sure the casing is 4" inside diameter? It looks like it's 5" to me but I have no real reference other than the conduit hole which is usually 1". I would use the same diameter pipe to extend it back up above grade if you do indeed cut it off.
If you go to a JRS-10 pitless the unit fits together easily, you will understand when you see it. The only hard part can be getting the unit through the hole from inside the casing during initial install. Again you seem pretty handy I'm sure you can figure it out. The connection for the JRS-10 is a standard 1" female pipe thread. Generally a 1" brass or stainless male adapter is used on anything underground or in a well to prevent breaking/corrosion. It will depend what your underground supply line to the house is. If it's poly (black flexible) then you will want a 1" thread on one side of the fitting and a 1" barb connection on the other to thread the fitting into the pitless and slide the poly over the barb end and double clamp. If it's PVC then glue fittings can work but PVC is much harder to work with when it's already buried.
Ok I'm installing a new furnace in my house so back to my DIY project. If you have further questions post them and I'll be happy to help in any way I can.
BTW that T-handle is supposed to be trimmed to length to fit INSIDE the well cap and rest ON the actual casing. Clearly the "professional" did a BS job installing it. One of the many reasons we all like to DIY.
It may be that the piece of PVC we saw in the photo was only one of the pieces that fell in and the other fell down and lodged the pump in. Again even at 200' a 1/2HP pump would be heavy but it should move. Also if the model is a 1/2HP 12 GPM then you must have a high static level (making it feel lighter when you pull it) or that pump wouldn't pump $hit for pressure. Off the top of my head I don't think it would pump over 50 PSI if the water level ever dropped below about 100' Also maybe the pump is hanging on steel pipe? Again in Ohio steel pipe is really rare anymore but I do still see it and I don't know what is typical in Michigan.
The down side to a potential deep well with a shallow pump setting is that if you lose it trying to pull by the wires it may fall 100' down before it hits bottom and be a MF'er to fish out. Yes it can be done but almost certainly will require a pro at that point.
I would suggest getting a hold of the wires at all cost before doing anything else at this point. Like I said, the worst thing I could see happening at this point is losing the pump down the well. If you plan on replacing the pitless or even if you have to remove the T handle on the current set-up, then I'd suggest making sure it's all the way loose by turning that "key bolt" all the way out if needed. If you are sure it's loose and the pitless won't lift out then you can try whacking the small "arm" with a spud bar or something to drive it down. In the pic you posted, the "arm" is on the left side of the pic up against the casing. It is connected to the pitless with a pin and pivots so it can "swing" in away from the casing to loosen the pitless and swing out against the casing to tighten the pitless. The "key bolt" is what forces the "arm" out or allows it to swing in. If you try to drive it down be careful driving something between the "arm" and the casing as PVC casing can be brittle and you don't want to crack it.
Are there 3 wires going down the well or only 2? If there is 3 and you feel adventurous I'd try cutting a hole in the PVC casing about 12" down from the top (or whatever length needed to give you about 12" of wire to pull out the hole you cut) reach in through the hole and cut one wire, pull it out through the hole and attach it to something. Then do the second wire and attach it to the same thing as the first or whatever you can use. Repeat for the third wire. Just make sure all wires are pulled to about the same level of taunt so all 3 share the load of whatever is down the well. I have pulled a pump by just bending the wires down over the top lip of the casing and holding them tight against the casing allowing the wire "crimped" over the top lip to support the weight of the pump until I could get another bite on the wire with whatever i was pulling it with.
Lastly are you sure the casing is 4" inside diameter? It looks like it's 5" to me but I have no real reference other than the conduit hole which is usually 1". I would use the same diameter pipe to extend it back up above grade if you do indeed cut it off.
If you go to a JRS-10 pitless the unit fits together easily, you will understand when you see it. The only hard part can be getting the unit through the hole from inside the casing during initial install. Again you seem pretty handy I'm sure you can figure it out. The connection for the JRS-10 is a standard 1" female pipe thread. Generally a 1" brass or stainless male adapter is used on anything underground or in a well to prevent breaking/corrosion. It will depend what your underground supply line to the house is. If it's poly (black flexible) then you will want a 1" thread on one side of the fitting and a 1" barb connection on the other to thread the fitting into the pitless and slide the poly over the barb end and double clamp. If it's PVC then glue fittings can work but PVC is much harder to work with when it's already buried.
Ok I'm installing a new furnace in my house so back to my DIY project. If you have further questions post them and I'll be happy to help in any way I can.
BTW that T-handle is supposed to be trimmed to length to fit INSIDE the well cap and rest ON the actual casing. Clearly the "professional" did a BS job installing it. One of the many reasons we all like to DIY.
MikefromMI
10-25-09, 08:48 PM
Hey Shane,
Ya, I knocked the darn piece off trying to get it. That's when I saw the end of the pipe. I had my son turn the breaker on for a second and sure enough it shot water out. The wire thing has me worried also. So I'm going to backhoe out all the way down to the pipe. Drill and rotozip an access hole big enough to grab onto the pipe. Hopefully I'll be able to get it out. Then I'll just cut the casting and install the new one with a real pitless.
I went back out and measured. My bad. The pipe looks to be 6". They added a reducing coupler on top to mount the PVC ring the cap screws into. At that point it's about 4 1/2".
If I can't pull it up I'm done. I didn't pull real hard on the wires. I have to dig it up to install the new pitless. Why chance it when I can try to pull it up by the pipe.
Are you good with the little giant or simmons? I'll order this week.
I was checking to see what they came into the basement with. It's pipe. Must have stopped with flex at the outside of the house. There's also two coming in. One under the pressure switch and one above. Have no idea what the second is for. Have to do more searching online.... Dude... This is getting old. lmao...
Having a hard time finding jrs-10's online. I can pick up a Little Giant 577706 for 25 bucks. Also a Simmons 1840 for 33$ Anyone have preferences?
Ya, I knocked the darn piece off trying to get it. That's when I saw the end of the pipe. I had my son turn the breaker on for a second and sure enough it shot water out. The wire thing has me worried also. So I'm going to backhoe out all the way down to the pipe. Drill and rotozip an access hole big enough to grab onto the pipe. Hopefully I'll be able to get it out. Then I'll just cut the casting and install the new one with a real pitless.
I went back out and measured. My bad. The pipe looks to be 6". They added a reducing coupler on top to mount the PVC ring the cap screws into. At that point it's about 4 1/2".
If I can't pull it up I'm done. I didn't pull real hard on the wires. I have to dig it up to install the new pitless. Why chance it when I can try to pull it up by the pipe.
Are you good with the little giant or simmons? I'll order this week.
I was checking to see what they came into the basement with. It's pipe. Must have stopped with flex at the outside of the house. There's also two coming in. One under the pressure switch and one above. Have no idea what the second is for. Have to do more searching online.... Dude... This is getting old. lmao...
Having a hard time finding jrs-10's online. I can pick up a Little Giant 577706 for 25 bucks. Also a Simmons 1840 for 33$ Anyone have preferences?
shane21
10-25-09, 08:49 PM
Shane,
I edited your post to remove your email address.
Email addresses in posts are not allowed...
Greg
Sorry Greg I was just trying to get a look at his pic as soon as possible as it was nearing dark when he posted Saturday and I thought maybe he would be able to get what he needed before it got dark. I won't post it again.
As for spam, the address I posted is one I use in cases like this so if it's spammed it's no big deal. I didn't post the email address I use for important stuff but thanks for your concern.
I edited your post to remove your email address.
Email addresses in posts are not allowed...
Greg
Sorry Greg I was just trying to get a look at his pic as soon as possible as it was nearing dark when he posted Saturday and I thought maybe he would be able to get what he needed before it got dark. I won't post it again.
As for spam, the address I posted is one I use in cases like this so if it's spammed it's no big deal. I didn't post the email address I use for important stuff but thanks for your concern.
shane21
10-25-09, 08:54 PM
Mike I think the 2 Big Box stores sell a variation of that pitless. It works on a simple slide like the JRS-10. As long as you buy one that specifies it will fit the size casing you have I don't expect it should be a problem. I have used the Simmons brand comparable pitless and had no problems.
The biggest reason we in the industry use the JRS-10 is because the "receiving" part of the pitless inside the well is very low profile once the pump is removed so the well is more easily accessed with a cleaning/drilling rig if it's ever needed. The other brands protrude further into the casing making it more difficult to work around them.
The biggest reason we in the industry use the JRS-10 is because the "receiving" part of the pitless inside the well is very low profile once the pump is removed so the well is more easily accessed with a cleaning/drilling rig if it's ever needed. The other brands protrude further into the casing making it more difficult to work around them.
MikefromMI
10-25-09, 09:33 PM
Understand. I'll come up with the JRS from somewhere.
I have a water heater to do next. But want to switch over to supply on demand. I promise that will be next year. lol
Hope your furnace is coming along OK.
I have a water heater to do next. But want to switch over to supply on demand. I promise that will be next year. lol
Hope your furnace is coming along OK.
shane21
10-26-09, 12:21 AM
Yea I installed a tankless hot water heater a few years ago myself. When you get ready to do it I can try to help with that too :) Good luck with the well hope all goes as planned when you get started.
GregH
10-26-09, 05:50 AM
No problem about the email.
If you want a picture to appear in the post there is a yellow icon icon above the reply box that shows a mountain.
Click this and paste in the location of the pic.
Facebook was not easy to link to.
I had to right click on the picture and select "Save image location" and paste this into the post icon.
Just a thought about the pump.
There is a possibility that your difficulty in pulling the pump is from a partially collapsed or shifted casing and it is the pump being held, not the pitless.
My well with a pitless needs a new foot valve and I am stalling until my neighbor gets his backhoe home just in case I have the same problem. :rolleyes:
If you want a picture to appear in the post there is a yellow icon icon above the reply box that shows a mountain.
Click this and paste in the location of the pic.
Facebook was not easy to link to.
I had to right click on the picture and select "Save image location" and paste this into the post icon.
Just a thought about the pump.
There is a possibility that your difficulty in pulling the pump is from a partially collapsed or shifted casing and it is the pump being held, not the pitless.
My well with a pitless needs a new foot valve and I am stalling until my neighbor gets his backhoe home just in case I have the same problem. :rolleyes:
MikefromMI
10-29-09, 11:30 AM
Hey Shane,
Found an LDS in N.Y. Cost a couple more bucks - but the guy showed me the hole on top for lowering into the new section of casting when installing. Also picked up the connectors. Everything in this darn house was done dirty and cheap. I thought I would be in good shape purchasing a house that was only 5 years old (16 years ago.) I'm sure they didn't run pvc out to the well. Probably a garden hose...... lol
Hopefully Sat. will go smooth. I have everything in the barn stacked around the backhoe. Have some cleaning to do just to connect it to the tractor.
Hey, will there be issues with me doing all this cutting up top and the crap falling in the casting. Is not like it's going to dissolve. I don't want to hurt the impeller. The rotozip spins instead of in and out. So I think if I vacuum while cutting it will help. Just wanted to check....
Thanks for your help, man...
Found an LDS in N.Y. Cost a couple more bucks - but the guy showed me the hole on top for lowering into the new section of casting when installing. Also picked up the connectors. Everything in this darn house was done dirty and cheap. I thought I would be in good shape purchasing a house that was only 5 years old (16 years ago.) I'm sure they didn't run pvc out to the well. Probably a garden hose...... lol
Hopefully Sat. will go smooth. I have everything in the barn stacked around the backhoe. Have some cleaning to do just to connect it to the tractor.
Hey, will there be issues with me doing all this cutting up top and the crap falling in the casting. Is not like it's going to dissolve. I don't want to hurt the impeller. The rotozip spins instead of in and out. So I think if I vacuum while cutting it will help. Just wanted to check....
Thanks for your help, man...
Pilot Dane
10-29-09, 03:10 PM
Look on the bright side. It could be worse. I'm getting ready to pull the pump in an old style 24" diameter well with barbed fittings & hose clamps connecting to cast iron elbows 6' underground. The only way is to go down the hole.
shane21
10-30-09, 05:22 PM
Mike if the only stuff getting into the well is the small amount of PVC dust created by the Rotozip when cutting I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you're worried, the best remedy for the situation is to stuff an old towel in the casing down to below where you will be cutting and then pull it out after you finish. It will keep 99% of the crap from falling down the well. If you wet the towel down it helps catch the PVC dust even better and keeps it on the towel as you pull it out. Just make sure you don't stuff it in too far that you can't reach it to pull it back out!
Did that once when I forgot to pull the towel out before welding on a casing extension. Felt like a real moron and it wasn't fun making something to pull that 10 lb towel crammed into the casing out from 5' above it :)
Did that once when I forgot to pull the towel out before welding on a casing extension. Felt like a real moron and it wasn't fun making something to pull that 10 lb towel crammed into the casing out from 5' above it :)
shane21
10-30-09, 05:27 PM
Look on the bright side. It could be worse. I'm getting ready to pull the pump in an old style 24" diameter well with barbed fittings & hose clamps connecting to cast iron elbows 6' underground. The only way is to go down the hole.
Technically you can install a pitless adapter on the pipe sticking through the wall of the well and connect your drop pipe to it so in the future it can be pulled much easier. We install a pitless adapter on almost EVERY underground connection we come across - provided it makes the next pull as easy as it's supposed to. If the pipe coming through the wall is old galvanized or steel then you will be unthreading those old fittings at your own risk as I'm sure you know :)
Have fun with that but I think all things considered I'd prefer your problem over Mike's. Replacing a pitless adapter 5' below grade WITH a pump stuck in the well is about as big a mess as we run into in the well business!
Technically you can install a pitless adapter on the pipe sticking through the wall of the well and connect your drop pipe to it so in the future it can be pulled much easier. We install a pitless adapter on almost EVERY underground connection we come across - provided it makes the next pull as easy as it's supposed to. If the pipe coming through the wall is old galvanized or steel then you will be unthreading those old fittings at your own risk as I'm sure you know :)
Have fun with that but I think all things considered I'd prefer your problem over Mike's. Replacing a pitless adapter 5' below grade WITH a pump stuck in the well is about as big a mess as we run into in the well business!
MikefromMI
11-02-09, 12:55 PM
Hey Shane,
You were right. Once I dug down and cut the casting I pulled on the wires and the pump came up without a problem. I installed the LDS on the lower "stub." Figured it would be more secure than over the new couple for the new casting above. Now.... Why didn't you tell me I was going to have to do a rain-dance to find a 5" piece of PVC? lol HD & Lowe's staff looked at me cross-eye'd. It was easier to find the LDS. lol Found 2 couple's on EBAY for 7$ each & 10$ S/H. Only place I found with pipe wanted 138+S/H for 5'. Yea... read that again. Found a place local but they only sell in 20' lengths. So I'm cutting the old pitless out and using the old piece. At least that already has the pvc mounted to use the old cap as well as the wire pipe on the outside. That LDS is awesome. So easy to work with. I couldn't have done all this without ya. Greatly appreciate your time.
I looked at the bottom side of the old pitless. Just a barb fitting. There was one clamp on the pipe that fell away. Guess they just didn't tighten it up enough. I used two stainless steel - then coated them with silicon to keep them out of the air. I have a chlorinator on top. Hey. Is that going to hurt the pump sucking that chlorinated water through it long term?
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30400152&l=87b095e217&id=1091532731
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30400156&l=776f91b430&id=1091532731
You were right. Once I dug down and cut the casting I pulled on the wires and the pump came up without a problem. I installed the LDS on the lower "stub." Figured it would be more secure than over the new couple for the new casting above. Now.... Why didn't you tell me I was going to have to do a rain-dance to find a 5" piece of PVC? lol HD & Lowe's staff looked at me cross-eye'd. It was easier to find the LDS. lol Found 2 couple's on EBAY for 7$ each & 10$ S/H. Only place I found with pipe wanted 138+S/H for 5'. Yea... read that again. Found a place local but they only sell in 20' lengths. So I'm cutting the old pitless out and using the old piece. At least that already has the pvc mounted to use the old cap as well as the wire pipe on the outside. That LDS is awesome. So easy to work with. I couldn't have done all this without ya. Greatly appreciate your time.
I looked at the bottom side of the old pitless. Just a barb fitting. There was one clamp on the pipe that fell away. Guess they just didn't tighten it up enough. I used two stainless steel - then coated them with silicon to keep them out of the air. I have a chlorinator on top. Hey. Is that going to hurt the pump sucking that chlorinated water through it long term?
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30400152&l=87b095e217&id=1091532731
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30400156&l=776f91b430&id=1091532731
shane21
11-02-09, 05:24 PM
Sounds like things went pretty well. I thought you told me you had a 6" casing in a previous thread? Plus I just assumed you could reuse that piece of pipe even if you had to cut the bottom 4" off or so, it would be shorter but it would work. Had I known you had 5" casing I would have told ya to start calling last week to find a piece. About the only people who carry it are well drillers and well supply companies - who coincidentally only sell wholesale to drillers. If it's any consolation they make us buy it in 20' lengths too. I'm sure a driller in your area could have gotten it for you but I have no idea what they'd charge.
It's been a while since I installed a Wells brand pitless but I was thinking they used a 1 3/4" hole which is what the JRS-10 uses. I think the LDS uses an even bigger hole, too late now but did you try to reuse the same entry hole for the new pitless?
The LDS will work (especially since you already installed it) but it too is a bit larger on the inside than the JRS and may present a problem if you ever need to have the well serviced. Usually you cannot get 5" drilling tools down a 5" well with a LDS on it but I guess you can cross that bridge if you come to it.
Glad the pump wasn't stuck and sounds like you have it under control, post back if anything else comes up.
It's been a while since I installed a Wells brand pitless but I was thinking they used a 1 3/4" hole which is what the JRS-10 uses. I think the LDS uses an even bigger hole, too late now but did you try to reuse the same entry hole for the new pitless?
The LDS will work (especially since you already installed it) but it too is a bit larger on the inside than the JRS and may present a problem if you ever need to have the well serviced. Usually you cannot get 5" drilling tools down a 5" well with a LDS on it but I guess you can cross that bridge if you come to it.
Glad the pump wasn't stuck and sounds like you have it under control, post back if anything else comes up.
MikefromMI
11-02-09, 07:42 PM
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shane21
11-03-09, 03:58 PM
I have a chlorinator on top. Hey. Is that going to hurt the pump sucking that chlorinated water through it long term?
Well I wouldn't worry too much about the chlorinator hurting the pump long term, but those pellets droppers are REAL hard on fittings and the pitless adapter. I didn't know you had a chlorinator mounted on top of that well and I would bet the reason you couldn't get that old pitless to come loose was because the chlorine corroded it and locked it together.
If installed correctly the pellet dropping chlorinators should have a hose/tube/pipe connected to the discharge port of the hopper (where the pellet actually leaves the mechanism and enters the well) so that the pellet AND any applicable chlorine dust falls through the hose/tube/pipe and never has a chance to come in contact with the pitless or the fittings near that connection. Ideally the chlorine and chlorine dust would exit the discharge hose/tube/pipe within about 15' of the highest water level in the well, but at least keeping the chlorine particles channeled away from the fittings for 15' or so below the pitless would be advisable. The reason people don't use the discharge hose/tube/pipe is because moisture eventually works its way up there and starts to cake that chlorine dust to the inside and eventually causes a blockage which needs to be snaked out so the chlorine can make it to the water again.
Although you eliminated many moving parts going to the LDS pitless, there is still a thread down there you need to be able to grab when you pull the pump next time and that chlorine plays hell on those brass threads over time.
Out of curiosity, why do you use the pellet dropper type chlorinator in the well? Do you have sulfur odor issues?
Well I wouldn't worry too much about the chlorinator hurting the pump long term, but those pellets droppers are REAL hard on fittings and the pitless adapter. I didn't know you had a chlorinator mounted on top of that well and I would bet the reason you couldn't get that old pitless to come loose was because the chlorine corroded it and locked it together.
If installed correctly the pellet dropping chlorinators should have a hose/tube/pipe connected to the discharge port of the hopper (where the pellet actually leaves the mechanism and enters the well) so that the pellet AND any applicable chlorine dust falls through the hose/tube/pipe and never has a chance to come in contact with the pitless or the fittings near that connection. Ideally the chlorine and chlorine dust would exit the discharge hose/tube/pipe within about 15' of the highest water level in the well, but at least keeping the chlorine particles channeled away from the fittings for 15' or so below the pitless would be advisable. The reason people don't use the discharge hose/tube/pipe is because moisture eventually works its way up there and starts to cake that chlorine dust to the inside and eventually causes a blockage which needs to be snaked out so the chlorine can make it to the water again.
Although you eliminated many moving parts going to the LDS pitless, there is still a thread down there you need to be able to grab when you pull the pump next time and that chlorine plays hell on those brass threads over time.
Out of curiosity, why do you use the pellet dropper type chlorinator in the well? Do you have sulfur odor issues?
MikefromMI
11-03-09, 10:47 PM
Out of curiosity, why do you use the pellet dropper type chlorinator in the well? Do you have sulfur odor issues?
Hey Shane!
The directions on the chlorinator called for a 12' drop tube with holes drilled ever couple inches. The old pitless had a good covering of green. But those pellets have never hit anything but water. I'm assuming the holes are what help the blockage. I've never had an issue with that. After figuring the size pipe and length of run - her uncle concluded the "candy machine" would do it's job with just 1 hole knocked out.
Ya, the water smelled. Especially out of the hot water heater. I changed out the darn rod for mag.... Barely helped. Just too much darn clay. One of the reasons I want to switch to supply on demand.
Long story short - I got everything for cost. My ex's uncle is a plumber down in Roanoke, VA. I purchased the softener the first year and got by. Then the next year I installed the green filter for the chlorinator as well as an RO system for the drinking water and ice maker. Both the softener and filter have head units that take experience to set. As an e/e I've read some crazy crap for setup. But these things are nuts. Wish they would have had digital. But we were broke back in those days (about 10 years ago.)
FYI - The first time I had to purchase pellets I came across some paperwork from the state of MI (http://www.michigan.gov/documents/deq/deq-wd-gws-wcu-disinfectwellpellet_270764_7.pdf) telling plumbers not to install these anymore due to corroded wires breaking and what not. I think you can put them on yourself. But I believe the Pro's aren't supposed to. I'm not sure. But it all works great. The crystalline bed in the softener was also upgraded to some red type of beads. He said they'd last longer. I can tell she doesn't do as good a job anymore. What kind of life we lookin at? It's been in there 13 years now.
Hey Shane!
The directions on the chlorinator called for a 12' drop tube with holes drilled ever couple inches. The old pitless had a good covering of green. But those pellets have never hit anything but water. I'm assuming the holes are what help the blockage. I've never had an issue with that. After figuring the size pipe and length of run - her uncle concluded the "candy machine" would do it's job with just 1 hole knocked out.
Ya, the water smelled. Especially out of the hot water heater. I changed out the darn rod for mag.... Barely helped. Just too much darn clay. One of the reasons I want to switch to supply on demand.
Long story short - I got everything for cost. My ex's uncle is a plumber down in Roanoke, VA. I purchased the softener the first year and got by. Then the next year I installed the green filter for the chlorinator as well as an RO system for the drinking water and ice maker. Both the softener and filter have head units that take experience to set. As an e/e I've read some crazy crap for setup. But these things are nuts. Wish they would have had digital. But we were broke back in those days (about 10 years ago.)
FYI - The first time I had to purchase pellets I came across some paperwork from the state of MI (http://www.michigan.gov/documents/deq/deq-wd-gws-wcu-disinfectwellpellet_270764_7.pdf) telling plumbers not to install these anymore due to corroded wires breaking and what not. I think you can put them on yourself. But I believe the Pro's aren't supposed to. I'm not sure. But it all works great. The crystalline bed in the softener was also upgraded to some red type of beads. He said they'd last longer. I can tell she doesn't do as good a job anymore. What kind of life we lookin at? It's been in there 13 years now.
shane21
11-04-09, 05:23 PM
It's not usually the pellets that hit the pitless, it's the very fine dust associated with the pellet droppers that ALWAYS makes it's way on to everything in the well. I never use them because they are so expensive and cause a lot of problems. If you're happy with it tho then that's all that matters.
When you say "green filter" I'm assuming you are talking about a manganese greensand iron filter, is that correct? If so then kudos to whoever recommended it. It is the best filtration media on the market for iron and hydrogen sulfide IF it is properly maintained and oxidized. It is the only unit I ever install for those problems and chlorine works great. The problem with pellet droppers is adjusting the chlorine to a consistent level. Do you know what PPM chlorine concentration the water has coming in to the iron filter? I use an electronic feed pump inside the house and inject liquid bleach into the units I install because they are so accurate.
As for the softener 13 years isn't a great run for the unit (provided it's a professional grade unit) but it's not terrible either. A lot of factors could contribute to the lifespan (water quality, chlorine concentrations, salt settings, etc) so I would need to know a lot more to help you there. Chlorine specifically is hard on softener resin over an extended period of time, the higher the PPM level the harder it is on that resin. If hard water is a problem you can always adjust the settings to have it regen a little more often and see if that helps. There is a fine line between using a bit more salt to achieve soft water vs. changing the resin. As a DIY it won't cost you much to change it but is your time worth more than the extra $20 a year you may spend in salt by having it regen a bit more often for now?
If the hot water tank smells I ALWAYS pull the anode rod out and leave it out altogether. I pull it, plug the hole and tell the customer the tank warranty will be voided but the option is deal with the smell for 10 years or replace it after 8 years of smell free water. I have never had a customer choose to keep the smelly water :)
When you say "green filter" I'm assuming you are talking about a manganese greensand iron filter, is that correct? If so then kudos to whoever recommended it. It is the best filtration media on the market for iron and hydrogen sulfide IF it is properly maintained and oxidized. It is the only unit I ever install for those problems and chlorine works great. The problem with pellet droppers is adjusting the chlorine to a consistent level. Do you know what PPM chlorine concentration the water has coming in to the iron filter? I use an electronic feed pump inside the house and inject liquid bleach into the units I install because they are so accurate.
As for the softener 13 years isn't a great run for the unit (provided it's a professional grade unit) but it's not terrible either. A lot of factors could contribute to the lifespan (water quality, chlorine concentrations, salt settings, etc) so I would need to know a lot more to help you there. Chlorine specifically is hard on softener resin over an extended period of time, the higher the PPM level the harder it is on that resin. If hard water is a problem you can always adjust the settings to have it regen a little more often and see if that helps. There is a fine line between using a bit more salt to achieve soft water vs. changing the resin. As a DIY it won't cost you much to change it but is your time worth more than the extra $20 a year you may spend in salt by having it regen a bit more often for now?
If the hot water tank smells I ALWAYS pull the anode rod out and leave it out altogether. I pull it, plug the hole and tell the customer the tank warranty will be voided but the option is deal with the smell for 10 years or replace it after 8 years of smell free water. I have never had a customer choose to keep the smelly water :)