Walls and Ceilings - Howto? Stud wall

Basement cemented walls, having glued in 2" XPS. Great. Now, the stud walls. Don't know how:
Q1: I've the 2x4 wood but do I first measure my wall and *build" the stud frame on the basement floor, lift it and nail it over the XPS into the cement wall? OR, I take the top - nail it to joist, the bottom - nail it to floor and then place the stud walls 1-by-1 nailing it to wall over the XPS? [All the wood are greenish in color]

Q2: Can't understand which side should face ME? the 4" side or the 2" side for the stud walls? If 2" side then overall I'm loosing 2" for XPS+4" for stud-walls. If 2" side then top and bottom side should be facing me??

Q3: Referring to buildingscience article, there seems to be something called a "capillary gap" at the very bottom. What is it and how to do it?

Q4: I spoke with my neighbor, who said there must be a fire barrier between the stud wall and ceiling joists. What does he mean and how to do it?

Kindly , kindly help.

Anyone .. kindly advice?????????????

Sorry but I don't understand a word you are saying:). What is XPS.

If your walls and ceilings is nice and level then you can build your wall on the floor and lift it in place. More likely, however, you will have to nail each stud in place seperately.

You frame with the 2 1/2 side toward you.

I agree with coops28, the chance of your concrete floor being perfectly level is nil. However, I like building standard walls rather than laying the studs flat. It is best to lay your pressure treated bottom plates in place and fasten them with either Tapcons or Powder actuated fasteners. From there determine a plumb line to the floor joists above and install a top plate to the joists. Again, depending on the height of the wall, you can use either precut studs or 8' 2x lumber for the studs. Build your corner block studs and any junction block stud assemblies and install them, then install your studs at 16" on center around the room. I find it best to work in one direction around the room (usually counterclockwise, but don't ask why), so you will be able to remember where your stud spacing started. Once the walls are studded, then you add your electrical, get it inspected and install your wall covering.

Extruded polystyrene rigid board insulation is glued or foamed directly to the whole face of the concrete wall. Then 1" air space to the stud wall, 3-1/2" of stud filled with R-13 fiberglass batt insulation, no vapor barrier or retarder, 1/2" drywall, latex (vapor permeable) paint. Tape all seams of the rigid, use a capilary break (waterproof vapor barrier) under the pressure treated bottom plate: Frost King at Lowe's: 2" x 100' Clear Plastic Seal Tape (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=96179-1410-T96A&lpage=none) 3-1/2" Foam Sill Seal (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=13280-46086-652248&lpage=none)
Regular stud grade #2 kiln-dried on the studs and top plates, only the bottom plate is p.t. also covers framing and fire-stopping: http://www.awc.org/pdf/WCD1-300.pdf
Be safe, Gary

Seems like I learned something in geometry that tells me you can't build the wall on the floor and tip it up unless you build it a little short. No, I take that back. If you hav room to rack it a little then straighten it back up you can do it.

You can build it short, and shim it as it goes up.

You can also use a double top plate. Build the wall an 1 1/2" short , tip it up and slide in the second plate.

Snap your lines, build and stand your wall, 3/4" short, use a stud waste block upright (same orientation as studs) next to every third joist on top of single top plate, face nail block to joist- up nail through top plate into bottom of block.(3" nails)
Be safe, Gary