Walls and Ceilings - Installing new non-loadbearing wall on Tile Floor

I want to install a couple of floor to ceiling non-loadbearing walls of standard 2x4 w/ sheet rock construction to corner off a small section of the garage. Each wall of the corner will be about 10-12' long.

The garage floor is ceramic tile set firmly on the concrete slab. I'm wondering what type of fasteners should be used to fasten the wall sections to the tile/concrete? In the past I've used tapcon to fasten a wall section to concrete but I'm unclear how the Tile affects this? Can you drill through tile with masonry bits?

Do they make a fastener that can be removed from the tile/concrete (or cut off flush) should the walls come down at a later date?

What are my options?

Bonus question: How are the two wall frames fastened (at 90 degrees) at the corner? Are sister studs needed on one or both of the wall frames at the corner connection?

Thank you

what i did,get a rotary hammer & 3/16" bit (at the tool rental store)-drill through the floor plate(2x4) into/through the tile & slab.install the tapcon fasteners-i used a 3/8" cordless impact driver to drive the hex headed screws-(that are removeable-if needed)
should have a layer of roofing felt under the lower plate to prevent water-wicking into the wood.
1 wall-at the adjoining corner will need to be constructed-2 studs-separeted by 3- 12" spacers. that will give you a nailing surface for the inside dry wall.

what i did,get a rotary hammer & 3/16" bit (at the tool rental store)-drill through the floor plate(2x4) into/through the tile & slab.install the tapcon fasteners-i used a 3/8" cordless impact driver to drive the hex headed screws-(that are removeable-if needed)
should have a layer of roofing felt under the lower plate to prevent water-wicking into the wood.
1 wall-at the adjoining corner will need to be constructed-2 studs-separeted by 3- 12" spacers. that will give you a nailing surface for the inside dry wall.
Ok, thanks for the reply. I have a rotary hammer and the impact driver but likely not the correct bit.

Do I use a masonry bit and will it go through the tile ok? Or do I need to pre-drill the tile with a tile bit and then change over to the masonry bit to get the rest of the way through the concrete? The tile bits I've looked at just have the triangle shaped tip thingy which looks suspiciously like the tip on a regular masonry bit so I'm thinking a masonry bit is all that is needed?

Assuming you drill and install the anchors with the wall in place? Do I have this figured correctly:

1/4" anchor, 3/16th bit

1.5 floor plate depth + 1.5 anchor embedment + .25-.50 hole relief at bottom for debris = 3.5" long drill bit?

Thanks

you are on the right track
does the rotary hammer you have use the 'sds' bits,or just a regular chuck.
in 'my' experience the sds chuck drills are the only ones that will drill through the aggregate(the hard stones in the concrete)
most any hammer type drill will go through the tile.

Personally I would think a hammer drill or rotary hammer will crack the tile? Maybe try it in non hammer mode first til ya get to the concrete?

I'm the odd man out on this but I'd use a dry diamond blade in a circular saw to cut a 3¾" wide strip of tile down to the concrete of tile then chisel the strip of tile out. so the stud plate sits on the concrete. As pointed out there is a danger of breaking the tile and also should you ever decide to remove the tile on the floor you won't have a problem. Once the tile is removed you can fasten then the bottom stud with a Remington 22 cal single shot nailer.

Diamond saw blades for a circular saw are only around $30 but you could use a much cheaper masonry carbide blade. The problem is it gets smaller as you cut so you constantly have to adjust the depth and on hard tile it will be slower cutting.

from his original post, 'i' thought he wanted to leave the tile in place - if the walls ever need to come down.

from his original post, 'i' thought he wanted to leave the tile in place - if the walls ever need to come down. Oops missed that so ignore my post.

Personally I would think a hammer drill or rotary hammer will crack the tile? Maybe try it in non hammer mode first til ya get to the concrete?

'good point'-i still would like to know if he has a drill capable of drilling the concrete

Aim well and drill only in a grout joint. That way it could be repaired if needed and you dont have to worry about cracking the tile.

Just an FYI - I have drilled through ceramic tile with an SDS hammer drill and not cracked a tile. I may have been lucky. Who knows.

you are on the right track
does the rotary hammer you have use the 'sds' bits,or just a regular chuck.
in 'my' experience the sds chuck drills are the only ones that will drill through the aggregate(the hard stones in the concrete)
most any hammer type drill will go through the tile.
The rotary hammer uses the SDS bits.