Thermostatic Controls - Help replacing my theromostat.

Hello

I would like to replace my current Robertshaw 300-208 thermostat for the Honeywell TH8320u1008.

I have a York E1RD030s06a heat pump connected to an attic installed air handler. (It also has an electric heating coil installed for aux heat.)

Also, on a stand alone thermostat I have an oil fired hot water furnace that I use when the temp goes below -10c or so.

Any way I can have all 3 devices on the honeywell? (Heat pump, heating coil, furnace) The specs on the Honeywell say 3heat and 1c source, so I'm hoping....

My current Robertshaw has:
W1 - White
Y1- Yellow
G - Green
R - Red
24v - Jumped to R above
24v(c) - Black
O- Orange

And the furnace is on a simple thermostat with 2 wires.

Interesting tidbit: I originally had the company that installed the heatpump come in to replace the thermostat. It was late on a friday and the tech just left me the thermostat (The Honeywell TH8320u1008) and was to return monday. He never came back! Subsequent calls showed that the company closed its doors that weekend...

Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

Set option 170 to 7
option 190 to 0


Emergency heat is your water furnace.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s160/Houston204/Heatpumpwboiler.jpg

If I'm reading this right, the electric heater core in the air handler is activated by the white wire going to aux?

Aux = stage 2 heat (electric heat strip)
E = emergency heat (will not energize Y)
Rc , R = 24 volt power
O/B = reversing valve (stage 1 cooling requires 24 volts here)
Y = compressor (this is stage 1 heat unless O/B is energized as well)
G = fan (we need to isolate this when E is energized, or your fan will run when your water furnace runs)
C = 24 volt common

Andy,

I am going to close/delete your other post that you started into another's poster thread.

You could do as you see above, but a relay must be used to keep the power from the boiler and air handler apart.


Houston204,
Only thing I am concern about is if the system starts up on a low set back or power outage, where the t-stat is going to call both Aux and E at the same time, it's going to kill the G, and now going to have an over heated coil.

Why would you feel that E would also be energized? There is no jumper between Aux and E.

Y and Aux would be energized with a high heating demand.

Aux and E will power up if the temp is below set point.. I don't recall how far of set back it was.

I've seen both Aux and E powered up while it was in regular heat mode. And if I recalled, if it was in EMG mode, Aux cycled on and off as needed.

I no longer have the VP laying around to take a reading again to confirm this.

It is strange that the instructions would tell you to place a jumper between these terminals if a wire is not connected to each, when the stat will energize both of them with a high heating demand.

Wouldn't you agree?

Are you sure a jumper wasn't at your stat or fancoil?

It is strange that the instructions would tell you to place a jumper between these terminals if a wire is not connected to each, when the stat will energize both of them with a high heating demand.
Well, if the air handler had more than one banks, it would bring on more heat as needed . Only time a jumper would be needed if the person didn't have more than one stage of heating, or don't have an extra wire in the wall to hook up the extra stage.

Are you sure a jumper wasn't at your stat or fancoil?
I don't have a heat pump, I have a two stage furnace. I had someone asked me on here about this, and I grabbed the VP I had laying around, and put my meter on it, and had a reading on those.

Two excellent points. Thank You.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s160/Houston204/HeatpumpwboilerRevB.jpg

I think you got her!

Now just see if the poster understands what's going on here.

What's up. Hope your day was as nice as mine:thumbup:

I have that stat on my wall. I pulled it and reconfigured it for multistage heatpump operation.

It will energize E in emergency heat demand. It will also energize Aux in emergency heat mode with a high heat demand. You taught me something there, Thanks.

It would not energize E in standard heat mode, even with a 10 degree heat demand. It would only energize Y, G and Aux.

Cool, glad you learned something new.. It has been 3-4 years ago when I did those reading..

My day went allright, it was long.. 9 days in a row, now I'm on vacation till the 28th!

Wow, that Must be nice.

I've been with the same company since October 1991 and still only get 5 days vacation per year.

5 days a year!?

I get 3 weeks, and I've been with Home Depot 8 years.

I don't recall what I may of had if i stayed in the fields, I'm guessing by now I would have 5 weeks of vacation.

Thanks for all the input guys. Luck would have it that I've been sent out of town for 2 weeks, so won't be able to try this until next weekend. Gives me time to source another relay though, I've only got 1.

I'll post back when I'm back.

Sounds good Andy.

If I were you, print off the drawing that was done for you, and stick it with the boiler or books.. That way if you had service, the next tech knows what's going on.

Only thing I'm missing is the programming for the t-stat. Can you guys outline that for me?

Here ya go.

120 to 160 you can figure it out.
170-7
180-1
190-0
200-0
220-3
250 to 270-3 (some may not show up)
280-1 (Make a good night light)
300- up to you if you want system to go back and forth auto for you.
340- you have remote sensor? (outside)
350- 25 if you have outdoor sensor.
360- 40 if you have outdoor sensor.

reast, you can figure out, ask if have questions.

Got back home this morning and decided to have some fun with this, couple changes from the plan:

1) I used only 1 relay for the furnace that activates when em heat is called
2) I have the T-stat running the fan whenever heat is called. The water heat zones in the house are not balanced, so running the fan distributes the heat better.

Everything seems to be working well. I went through cool, heat, aux and emergency heat and everything seems to be coming on as expected, but couple questions:

In normal operation, how does the switch from normal heat to em heat happen? I have the outdoor temp sensor plugged in and its set to lockout the compressor at -9c or so, and I assume aux will take over? Would I have to manually change the Tstat to use em heat?

In normal operation, how does the switch from normal heat to em heat happen?
The t-stat will see if the HP falls behind, and it will fire off AUX and will back off once it sees that the hot water helped the HP out. It does on it's own when system has reached it's 90% capacity.


I have the outdoor temp sensor plugged in and its set to lockout the compressor at -9c or so, and I assume aux will take over? Would I have to manually change the Tstat to use em heat?
The t-stat will swtich over on it's own. no need to change it over. Only time you'll need to change it over if your HP is not working.

That's it then!

Jay and Houston204, thanks very much for all your help in getting this done. I have a much more efficient setup now!

Glad we both can help out, and if you need anything else, let us know!

Happy to help, be safe:thumbup: