Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Problem Sealing New Strainer Basket
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Pipsisiwah
10-09-09, 10:50 PM
Can't get a good seal on replacement strainer basket. Fits into ss sink. Cleaned 3 1/2-inch hole top and bottom. Used pencil-width of plumber's putty underneath top flange.
Couldn't tighten flange nut tight enough to prevent leaking because the flange kept turning and getting off-center in the 3-1/2 inch hole.
1. What technique is used to prevent the top flange from twisting and going off-center while tightening the flange nut?
2. Maybe I used too much putty. How thick a putty bead is sufficient - a thick bead or just a smidgeon?
3. Also unable to get a decent seal at the top of the tail piece. Used new washer on top, but it is as if the 1-1/2 inch clamp nut "runs out of thread" before the tail piece seats against the bottom of the strainer basket. I just cannot tighten the clamp nut tight enough to hold the tail piece against the basket. Is there a special technique?
4. I'm using regular and giant channel-locks to turn the nuts. Is that part of the problem?
5. The new basket is TrueValue's "Master Plumber" brand. Could it be that that brand is junk and causing the problems?
This ain't rocket science. I've done garbage disposals and drains for bathtubs and bathroom sinks several times before without problems. Seems the older I get the more I screw things up. :(
Couldn't tighten flange nut tight enough to prevent leaking because the flange kept turning and getting off-center in the 3-1/2 inch hole.
1. What technique is used to prevent the top flange from twisting and going off-center while tightening the flange nut?
2. Maybe I used too much putty. How thick a putty bead is sufficient - a thick bead or just a smidgeon?
3. Also unable to get a decent seal at the top of the tail piece. Used new washer on top, but it is as if the 1-1/2 inch clamp nut "runs out of thread" before the tail piece seats against the bottom of the strainer basket. I just cannot tighten the clamp nut tight enough to hold the tail piece against the basket. Is there a special technique?
4. I'm using regular and giant channel-locks to turn the nuts. Is that part of the problem?
5. The new basket is TrueValue's "Master Plumber" brand. Could it be that that brand is junk and causing the problems?
This ain't rocket science. I've done garbage disposals and drains for bathtubs and bathroom sinks several times before without problems. Seems the older I get the more I screw things up. :(
newtofta
10-10-09, 09:29 AM
there is a tool to hold the strainer basket-sorta looks kihe a socket with prongs.
have used a large pair of needel nose pliers-pointed jaws into the basket slots / then a hammer handel between the pliers grips
have used a large pair of needel nose pliers-pointed jaws into the basket slots / then a hammer handel between the pliers grips
spdavid
10-10-09, 10:47 AM
Use plenty of putty and just wipe away what squeezes out when you tighten.
Did you use the washer that looks sort of like a hat on the tailpeice that attaches to the basket assembly?It has a right angle flange that angles down into the tailpeice.
The brand of the basket is an import of decent quality and is made by the makers of most all store brand and lower cost baskets.It is possible there could be a flaw but these products are not so bad that they should be avoided.There are better baskets but they cost more.
Did you use the washer that looks sort of like a hat on the tailpeice that attaches to the basket assembly?It has a right angle flange that angles down into the tailpeice.
The brand of the basket is an import of decent quality and is made by the makers of most all store brand and lower cost baskets.It is possible there could be a flaw but these products are not so bad that they should be avoided.There are better baskets but they cost more.
ecman51`
10-11-09, 02:40 PM
This ain't rocket science.
Ya. So to keep from being frustrated, and for a positive leak proof repair, I have used those 3 1/2 inch flat rubber washers, rather than the putty, under the riim (between rim and sink). Never had a baskdet spin out of position or leak on me in over 20 years. And I have done almost countless numbers in kitchen remodels, and fixing plumber's putty failed baskets! No call backs ever. No leaks ever.
The only thing you must make sure, if you choose this way, is that the punched out hole is recessed enough to allow the thickeness of the rubber gasket ontop under the rim, without causing the rim to be higher than the sink bottom. Or else water will stand in the bottom of the sink, a little bit near the rim, and may technically be against code if that happens. I pick out the thinnest gaskets I can find. Sometimes they are not cut equally thick, er, thin.
They sell a plastic cylindrical tool that tightens the 3 1/2 inch nut from below. You do not have to worry about stuff being in the way, as you do with a giant channel locks.
Ya. So to keep from being frustrated, and for a positive leak proof repair, I have used those 3 1/2 inch flat rubber washers, rather than the putty, under the riim (between rim and sink). Never had a baskdet spin out of position or leak on me in over 20 years. And I have done almost countless numbers in kitchen remodels, and fixing plumber's putty failed baskets! No call backs ever. No leaks ever.
The only thing you must make sure, if you choose this way, is that the punched out hole is recessed enough to allow the thickeness of the rubber gasket ontop under the rim, without causing the rim to be higher than the sink bottom. Or else water will stand in the bottom of the sink, a little bit near the rim, and may technically be against code if that happens. I pick out the thinnest gaskets I can find. Sometimes they are not cut equally thick, er, thin.
They sell a plastic cylindrical tool that tightens the 3 1/2 inch nut from below. You do not have to worry about stuff being in the way, as you do with a giant channel locks.
Pipsisiwah
10-12-09, 09:31 AM
Good tip regarding the rubber ring. I thought about that, but figured it would be too thick, like you described.
That was my last kitchen sink job though. By the time it begins leaking, my plumbing will be leaking as well...:)
That was my last kitchen sink job though. By the time it begins leaking, my plumbing will be leaking as well...:)
ecman51`
10-12-09, 09:42 AM
More often than not, the rubber ring thickness was okay. It also draws down a tad when tightened. Grease the 3 1/2 inch threads first before installing the big nut.
So did you use plumber's putty?
Advantage to rubber ring, when working without a helper to keep the basket centered so it looks nice, is that with the rubber ring instead, it never twists once it starts to grab. I also use this method with all my garbage disposer installations, as vibration will not cause putty to fail, and I can keep the embossed name on the rim, centered, without having it turn when tightening.
So did you use plumber's putty?
Advantage to rubber ring, when working without a helper to keep the basket centered so it looks nice, is that with the rubber ring instead, it never twists once it starts to grab. I also use this method with all my garbage disposer installations, as vibration will not cause putty to fail, and I can keep the embossed name on the rim, centered, without having it turn when tightening.
Pipsisiwah
10-17-09, 12:01 AM
I used the putty between the flange and the upper surface of the sink hole.
And I opted for a strainer that had what looked like a 1 1/2 inch clamp nut instead of the 3 1/2 inch clamp ring.
It's been a few days and the paper towel I placed below the drain shows no signs of having been dripped upon, so I think I'm okay.
And I opted for a strainer that had what looked like a 1 1/2 inch clamp nut instead of the 3 1/2 inch clamp ring.
It's been a few days and the paper towel I placed below the drain shows no signs of having been dripped upon, so I think I'm okay.