Doors and Windows - Garage Door Question
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Garage Door Question
hmhill17
10-04-09, 09:03 AM
I've been having issues with my garage door opener. Recently replaced one of the springs after the old one broke. Matched color on old spring to new so I assume that it's the right kind. During the Atlanta flood recently, my garage door opener wouldn't go down at all so I just locked it and moved on. I, being somewhat stupid, did not leave the catch on the garage door opener undone so when my son hit the wrong button for the garage door openers, the opener ripped the screws right out of the wood. Therefore I have 2 questions.
First, would it be better to connect the garage door opened back to the garage door slightly off center or should I drill through the entire door and put a screw all the way through and bolt it on the other side? I worry about the latter because if the same thing ever happens again, the screws won't just pull out.
Second, when the door wasn't opening and closing properly, I WD-40ed the rollers, lubricated everything, replaced the aforementioned spring, and tinkered with the open/close force settings for the opener. Nothing worked. In the past, the company told me weather can make the opener work in strange ways, but the other identical garage door opener is fine. Is it possible I got a bum opener? It was also the first of two I installed so I may have messed it up a bit. Should I just call out a company to look at it and give me a price to repair?
First, would it be better to connect the garage door opened back to the garage door slightly off center or should I drill through the entire door and put a screw all the way through and bolt it on the other side? I worry about the latter because if the same thing ever happens again, the screws won't just pull out.
Second, when the door wasn't opening and closing properly, I WD-40ed the rollers, lubricated everything, replaced the aforementioned spring, and tinkered with the open/close force settings for the opener. Nothing worked. In the past, the company told me weather can make the opener work in strange ways, but the other identical garage door opener is fine. Is it possible I got a bum opener? It was also the first of two I installed so I may have messed it up a bit. Should I just call out a company to look at it and give me a price to repair?
Gunguy45
10-04-09, 10:19 AM
I'll just go from the start and try to hit everything.
Always replace extension springs in pairs, never just one side. The older one is more likely to break since it has been overstressed. Color codes only count within the same brand. Brand x green may be 130 lb, brand y green may be 110 lb. Weighing the door or buying from the original manufacturer is the only way to know for sure.
The bracket for the opener arm should be bolted all the way though, not just screwed on to the door, this is for a wooden door of course. Most, not all, metal doors need some sort of reinforcing bracket/angle iron attached to the door, then the opener arm attaches to that.
If the door is locked mechanically, the opener should be unplugged and disconnected from the trolley or the door to prevent damage. Most companies recommend removing or at least disabling the door lock when an opener is installed.
WD is the wrong thing to use. Never put oil or WD or similar on the rollers or track. It will just attract grit and dirt. The track should be kept clean with a solvent dampened rag, something like mineral spirits or alcohol is fine. A LIGHT spray of silicone or a wipe with a silicone dampened rag is all the track and surface of the rollers need. They make a special type, but I've never seen the need for another can of spray stuff...lol.
You can use a light oil like 3n1 on the bearings of the rollers if they are exposed, just a drop every 6 months or so. Also on the hinge pivots, cable roller bearings and spring and cable attachment points. Can also run a light bead on TORSION springs, then cycle the door to distribute it.
If you have chain opener, use motorcycle chain lube. Screw types normally have a specific type recommended and its normally sold wherever the openers are sold. Its something like 1 small tube a year? Don't think belts need anything except maybe on the roller/gear shafts.
As to the opener operation....
Does the door go up and down smoothly w/o much effort when operated manually? Will it stop pretty much anywhere in the middle 3rd of the opening? Does it roll up forcefully or slam down hard when it gets to any point? Should be yes..yes..no. And it should stay that way for all the seasons..hot, cold, wet, dry whatever.
"Tinkering" with the settings may not work. Some openers have a very specific procedure for adjusting the up and down limits and force.
I've heard of things sometimes needing to be readjusted depending on temperature, never had to do it though.
If you give exactly what it wasn't doing..we can try to go from there. Did it start down, then reverse, did the lights flash or the unit click? Does it open ok? Will it close it you push and hold the interior button? Do you have sensor eyes and are they clean and well adjusted?
Always replace extension springs in pairs, never just one side. The older one is more likely to break since it has been overstressed. Color codes only count within the same brand. Brand x green may be 130 lb, brand y green may be 110 lb. Weighing the door or buying from the original manufacturer is the only way to know for sure.
The bracket for the opener arm should be bolted all the way though, not just screwed on to the door, this is for a wooden door of course. Most, not all, metal doors need some sort of reinforcing bracket/angle iron attached to the door, then the opener arm attaches to that.
If the door is locked mechanically, the opener should be unplugged and disconnected from the trolley or the door to prevent damage. Most companies recommend removing or at least disabling the door lock when an opener is installed.
WD is the wrong thing to use. Never put oil or WD or similar on the rollers or track. It will just attract grit and dirt. The track should be kept clean with a solvent dampened rag, something like mineral spirits or alcohol is fine. A LIGHT spray of silicone or a wipe with a silicone dampened rag is all the track and surface of the rollers need. They make a special type, but I've never seen the need for another can of spray stuff...lol.
You can use a light oil like 3n1 on the bearings of the rollers if they are exposed, just a drop every 6 months or so. Also on the hinge pivots, cable roller bearings and spring and cable attachment points. Can also run a light bead on TORSION springs, then cycle the door to distribute it.
If you have chain opener, use motorcycle chain lube. Screw types normally have a specific type recommended and its normally sold wherever the openers are sold. Its something like 1 small tube a year? Don't think belts need anything except maybe on the roller/gear shafts.
As to the opener operation....
Does the door go up and down smoothly w/o much effort when operated manually? Will it stop pretty much anywhere in the middle 3rd of the opening? Does it roll up forcefully or slam down hard when it gets to any point? Should be yes..yes..no. And it should stay that way for all the seasons..hot, cold, wet, dry whatever.
"Tinkering" with the settings may not work. Some openers have a very specific procedure for adjusting the up and down limits and force.
I've heard of things sometimes needing to be readjusted depending on temperature, never had to do it though.
If you give exactly what it wasn't doing..we can try to go from there. Did it start down, then reverse, did the lights flash or the unit click? Does it open ok? Will it close it you push and hold the interior button? Do you have sensor eyes and are they clean and well adjusted?