Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - Torque vs Volts?
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Winglie
10-03-09, 10:52 PM
Hi... I'm comparing a B&D NiCad 14.4v cordless drill (175 in/lbs of torque) with an Hitachi 12v Lithium with 195 in/lbs of torque...
Which one would do a better job -- at let's say -- drilling straight through a pine 2x4? Is TORQUE a better indicator of a drill's power than VOLTAGE?
Many Thanks!
Which one would do a better job -- at let's say -- drilling straight through a pine 2x4? Is TORQUE a better indicator of a drill's power than VOLTAGE?
Many Thanks!
chandler
10-04-09, 05:09 AM
Gearing will determine the amount of torque (in addition to increased voltage). Some 14.4v drills have more torque than other brand's 18v. If I had my choice on your two I would probably go with the Hitachi, but not 12v. Compare apple to apple on voltage including price, etc to see which is a better deal. Also look at how you will use it and how often it will be used. When I set up a jobsite, we have battery banks and run cordless drills, nailers, jig saws, etc. all day long. If you only use them occasionally, consider a corded drill. Batteries die sitting still as much as running, so consider that as well.
GregH
10-04-09, 05:46 AM
I really would not over think those numbers.
You need to be a bit suspicious of the ratings.
Air compressor horse power ratings are a good example of a rating that can be very misleading.
Many compressor mfrs are slowing changing to an accepted standard but a lot still show HP ratings on "maximum developed power" .
This is either based on the starting current or at an amperage level that would almost stall the motor and just before it catches fire!
You would do well to base your decision on the overall quality, price and ergonomics before picking apart the fine details.
You need to be a bit suspicious of the ratings.
Air compressor horse power ratings are a good example of a rating that can be very misleading.
Many compressor mfrs are slowing changing to an accepted standard but a lot still show HP ratings on "maximum developed power" .
This is either based on the starting current or at an amperage level that would almost stall the motor and just before it catches fire!
You would do well to base your decision on the overall quality, price and ergonomics before picking apart the fine details.
Winglie
10-04-09, 09:57 AM
Okay, my sister-in-law responded to me off-line this morning over this torque/volt question... she's a scientist-type who likes to build things in her spare time so I'll take her word for it...
Lower voltage can produce higher torque, but it would tend to throw things out of balance – like putting a Mustang engine in a Ford Escort. Something would have to give – in the car’s case it would probably be the transmission, in the drill’s case, the 12v battery would probably get easily overloaded.
Also I have noticed that the power of a low-volt NiCad drill produces more short-term power than a low-voltage Lithium battery does (but overall life expectancy of a LiOn is probably better). Remember how laptop batteries used to last forever but then they’d catch on fire? Now they’re more stable (and expensive), but don’t hold a charge as long.
Generally speaking, a low-volt Lithium (12v) is great for hanging curtain rods. A Hi-volt NiCad (18v) is best for building decks. I have a DeWalt 18v and it does everything I need it to do and has decent battery life.
Lower voltage can produce higher torque, but it would tend to throw things out of balance – like putting a Mustang engine in a Ford Escort. Something would have to give – in the car’s case it would probably be the transmission, in the drill’s case, the 12v battery would probably get easily overloaded.
Also I have noticed that the power of a low-volt NiCad drill produces more short-term power than a low-voltage Lithium battery does (but overall life expectancy of a LiOn is probably better). Remember how laptop batteries used to last forever but then they’d catch on fire? Now they’re more stable (and expensive), but don’t hold a charge as long.
Generally speaking, a low-volt Lithium (12v) is great for hanging curtain rods. A Hi-volt NiCad (18v) is best for building decks. I have a DeWalt 18v and it does everything I need it to do and has decent battery life.
Winglie
10-04-09, 10:21 AM
So based on all this info (thanks guys!) I should look at Volts and reputation first and then use Torque as a tie-breaker.
The refurbished 2000 B&Der 14.4v I was using provided just enough juice to get what I needed to get done (I can't believe it lasted nine years) like building bookshelves, entertainment centers, etc... I have my grandfather's old war-horse corded unit for drilling through railroad ties, boulders, locomotives, etc... :)
So I guess my best bet would be to get a good name (Hitachi) 14.4v with two batteries -- NiCads would be cheaper, heavier, pack more punch, but replacements probably won't be available in five years...
The refurbished 2000 B&Der 14.4v I was using provided just enough juice to get what I needed to get done (I can't believe it lasted nine years) like building bookshelves, entertainment centers, etc... I have my grandfather's old war-horse corded unit for drilling through railroad ties, boulders, locomotives, etc... :)
So I guess my best bet would be to get a good name (Hitachi) 14.4v with two batteries -- NiCads would be cheaper, heavier, pack more punch, but replacements probably won't be available in five years...