Basements, Attics and Crawl Spaces - Drywall Tape and Mud
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BFC56
10-01-09, 04:49 PM
Hi All,
I am in the process of finishing my basement. I have done a subfloor and framed it myself. Just had the electrical and plumbing done as well as spray foam. I am about to start to drywall, but want to leave the taping and mudding to a professional. Anyone else contract this out? If so, can anyone recommend someone in the GTA. I have a few quotes for $.40 for labour and would like to get a few more quotes.
Thanks in advance.
BFC56
I am in the process of finishing my basement. I have done a subfloor and framed it myself. Just had the electrical and plumbing done as well as spray foam. I am about to start to drywall, but want to leave the taping and mudding to a professional. Anyone else contract this out? If so, can anyone recommend someone in the GTA. I have a few quotes for $.40 for labour and would like to get a few more quotes.
Thanks in advance.
BFC56
Bud9051
10-01-09, 05:19 PM
Hi 56, sounds high to me, however, you are probably paying a small job penalty, extra because you hung it (they prefer their own work) and maybe extra because basements don't dry well. To be honest, you can do it with the forum's advice and it will be just fine. There are a few basic tricks that anyone can master to do a really good job.
Just to give you an idea. Most novices use the mud right from the bucket, too thick. And then they apply too much at a time and expect to sand off the extra, wrong. A palette, a good 6" blade and maybe a 10" blade, and a mud mixer for your drill. I'll wait to list more after you decide, but it is easy and it is a skill you will want to learn for future projects.
The last job I was quoted was $12 a sheet (4x12) to hang it and $12 a sheet to tape it. I would expect $15 today. The pros will correct me on that I'm sure.
Bud
PS, that's plus materials
Just to give you an idea. Most novices use the mud right from the bucket, too thick. And then they apply too much at a time and expect to sand off the extra, wrong. A palette, a good 6" blade and maybe a 10" blade, and a mud mixer for your drill. I'll wait to list more after you decide, but it is easy and it is a skill you will want to learn for future projects.
The last job I was quoted was $12 a sheet (4x12) to hang it and $12 a sheet to tape it. I would expect $15 today. The pros will correct me on that I'm sure.
Bud
PS, that's plus materials
BFC56
10-02-09, 06:58 AM
Thanks Bud,
The only reservation I have is that I am told if the tape and mud job is not done well, it is very noticable and having never done it before, it is a little overwhelming since it is such a large area. I will looking doing myself.
The only reservation I have is that I am told if the tape and mud job is not done well, it is very noticable and having never done it before, it is a little overwhelming since it is such a large area. I will looking doing myself.
Bud9051
10-02-09, 07:49 AM
One of the difficulties you face is hanging the drywall correctly.
1. Are you sheetrocking the ceiling? If so, first so walls can support between bays. Sheetrock ceilings will also eliminate access to space above.
2. Horizontal or vertical walls. I prefer horizontal with upper and lower butt joints staggered.
3. Ceilings, perpendicular to joists with staggered joints. Perpendicular helps smooth out any up and down variations.
4. Opinions vary, but I prefer paper tape.
5. On butt joints cut a notch, a 45 degree bevel on each butt edge so you get about a 1/2" wide "v" 1/4" deep, can be a bit smaller. This helps hold the mud and while pressing the tape smooth, it will force the mud into the seam giving you a better junction.
6. Anyplace you cut the drywall, trim the fuzzy edge, saves trying to bury it in mud later on.
7. Keep the sheetrock up as much as possible from the floor.
8. Monitor the humidity when done, and plan on a dehumidifier. The reason you see a dry basement is because the moisture is evaporating. Once covered, it will accumulate where it doesn't get air circulation.
9. The second source of moisture you will have to deal with is condensation from moist summer air onto cool basement surfaces.
10. They make and I have used the paperless drywall to eliminate the paper food source for mold. It hasn't been long enough for me to say if it helped or not.
11. The pros can put mud anywhere, anytime. Even though I have done a lot of drywall, I'm not a pro, all you have to do is watch one, they are amazing. But the key difference is I'm slower, and I do things that make it easier for me to get the quality I want. Like applying mud to one side of a corner at a time after the tape is in place. Doing all of the 4' joints on one round, then after that dries, doing the long runs. After the tape is in place, I like to apply 2 coats of mud to each side of the tape. I trowel over the tape, but do not leave any mud, I save the cover for the final skim coat. The reason is, just 1/8" of mud over the tape and you would have to taper it out 2' to each side.
Again, we can add more if and when you get there.
Bud
1. Are you sheetrocking the ceiling? If so, first so walls can support between bays. Sheetrock ceilings will also eliminate access to space above.
2. Horizontal or vertical walls. I prefer horizontal with upper and lower butt joints staggered.
3. Ceilings, perpendicular to joists with staggered joints. Perpendicular helps smooth out any up and down variations.
4. Opinions vary, but I prefer paper tape.
5. On butt joints cut a notch, a 45 degree bevel on each butt edge so you get about a 1/2" wide "v" 1/4" deep, can be a bit smaller. This helps hold the mud and while pressing the tape smooth, it will force the mud into the seam giving you a better junction.
6. Anyplace you cut the drywall, trim the fuzzy edge, saves trying to bury it in mud later on.
7. Keep the sheetrock up as much as possible from the floor.
8. Monitor the humidity when done, and plan on a dehumidifier. The reason you see a dry basement is because the moisture is evaporating. Once covered, it will accumulate where it doesn't get air circulation.
9. The second source of moisture you will have to deal with is condensation from moist summer air onto cool basement surfaces.
10. They make and I have used the paperless drywall to eliminate the paper food source for mold. It hasn't been long enough for me to say if it helped or not.
11. The pros can put mud anywhere, anytime. Even though I have done a lot of drywall, I'm not a pro, all you have to do is watch one, they are amazing. But the key difference is I'm slower, and I do things that make it easier for me to get the quality I want. Like applying mud to one side of a corner at a time after the tape is in place. Doing all of the 4' joints on one round, then after that dries, doing the long runs. After the tape is in place, I like to apply 2 coats of mud to each side of the tape. I trowel over the tape, but do not leave any mud, I save the cover for the final skim coat. The reason is, just 1/8" of mud over the tape and you would have to taper it out 2' to each side.
Again, we can add more if and when you get there.
Bud
BFC56
10-02-09, 01:44 PM
Hi Bud,
I am doing the walls and ceiling and plan to hang the ceiling first as you suggested. I plan to hang the walls horizontal as this is what I have read to be the "better" way to do it when it comes to taping. I will also hang the ceiling perpendicular. You mentioned to cut a 45 degree bevel on each butt joint so I get a 1/2" 1/4" deep v? After doing this, do I press the butt joints tight together or leave a 1/8" gap? I have heard that if there is no gap then the mud has a hard time getting in, or does cutting the bevel take care of this? Also, you said to trim the edges where I cut the drywall. Do I use a utility knife or a drywall plane or sand paper?
Thanks for all the info, it seems that I look at the steps, I may give it a try. Will start to hand the drywall next week some time.
BFC56
I am doing the walls and ceiling and plan to hang the ceiling first as you suggested. I plan to hang the walls horizontal as this is what I have read to be the "better" way to do it when it comes to taping. I will also hang the ceiling perpendicular. You mentioned to cut a 45 degree bevel on each butt joint so I get a 1/2" 1/4" deep v? After doing this, do I press the butt joints tight together or leave a 1/8" gap? I have heard that if there is no gap then the mud has a hard time getting in, or does cutting the bevel take care of this? Also, you said to trim the edges where I cut the drywall. Do I use a utility knife or a drywall plane or sand paper?
Thanks for all the info, it seems that I look at the steps, I may give it a try. Will start to hand the drywall next week some time.
BFC56