All Trucks, Campers, Trailers, RV's and Motor Homes - 89 mazda b2200 bellhousing seal do not match up with hole.

Hi, I am trying to install a new clutch on 89 mazda b2200 se5. I got everything out but when I went to install it, the bottom metal seal that is connected to the engine wont line up with the holes. I think metal seal is in two pieces. it's the two bottom right holes. I tried to take the flywheel off but the screw driver fly's out and hits me in the face. what do I need to do? do I need to take the flywheel off and reline the seal? did I do something bad? please help!!!!!!!!! :wall:

what is a b2200?
is it the mazda version of the ford ranger?

what is a b2200?
is it the mazda version of the ford ranger?

Mazda trucks up to 1993 are Mazda-made, in Japan. Beginning in 1994 year, Mazda trucks became essentially the same as Rangers, made in USA.

Unfortunately, I can't help with the clutch issue. Apparently the flywheel is turning when you try to loosen its bolts with ahand wrench. An impact wrench would help out here; mine's an electric one, about $50 from Harbor Freight tools.

CUSSER,

would I be able to get to the seal if I take the flywheel off, you know?

as,i am a'ford'guy-sorry-i can not giveyou any accurate advice.

Anyone else have any suggestions? i really need help be for I freezzzzz.:wall:

Are you trying to replace the rear crank seal,, or is it just the spacer between the engine & trans you'r having trouble with?? If you used a pilot in the clutch to line up the pilot bearing & splines,, the tin spacer between the engine & trans should still fit unless something happened (like a big pry bar) to bend it out of shape... I've done lots of these little Mazdas,, (Worked for mazda) & they are really pretty straight foreward... Be more specific with the problem & we'll get you going... Roger

Hi, thanx for reply. I was talking about the metal seal (tin spacer?) that meets with the engine and clutch housing. I just changed the clutch on it. I'm tring to put it back togather. the metal seal (tin spacer) dosen't line up with he holes to the engine so I can't get the screws in. it's the two bottem right holes that dosen't line up. other ones are lined up. I tried to hammer it from the side to line it up but does not move. it looks to me that the seal is in two pices but don't know for sure the flywheels in the way.

thanx in advance.

the thin aluminum plate(aprox-0.30"thicknes)is baisclly used as a-locator for the starter assy.
there should be '2' alignment pins/dowels-that locate this 'plate' to the enginine -block face.
can-you post a' photo'of what is going on?
a guy above in this discussoin is probaly more well informed as to your problem- possible- send him a p/m

yes, starter does connect to this "locater". how do I get to this alignment pins?

the best i can suggest-without a photo of the actual problem,is to pull the trans back-or out.
then you should be able to locate the spacer plate to the engine bolt circle-with all the holes lined up.
it helps-to get 2- 3"bolts-the same thread as the bellhoustin bolts-cut the head off-cut a screw driver'slot. accross the end-screw them in to the left & right side bolt holes of the block-use them to help align the trans to the engine.
it is possible that the alignment pins came out with the bellhousing & are still there.
if so=use a punch-drive them out/reinstall them in engine.
did you use an 'alignment tool' to center the clutch disk?
it is a 'must'

here's some pic's of what's going on.

Pictures by sphinxx187 - Photobucket (http://s875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/sphinxx187/)

so-what you are sayingis-the 2 holes in the 2 nd picture/the holes in the spacer plate are not exactly lined up with the holes in the block.correct?
can you get a pic - a little further back-so i can see the whole
thing-left to right.
did you ever find the alignment-pins/dowels.
does this thin plate appear to have an out side edge that goes 'all' the way around the back of the engine./or does it have a gap in the out side-a better way maybe-is it comlete-like a disk with a hole for the crankshaft-or is it like a big horse shoe-

ok I added some more pic;s. sorry for bad quality. only have cell phone cam.

yes, you are correct plate does not line up with holes.
yes, I did find the alignment pins but they only align the top part.
the top part is aligned, it's just the bottom two.

I was thinking of using a drimal type rotory tool to grind the part where it over the hole, is that a bad idea? I'm talking just few mm's. thanx for all your help!!!!!

ps. it's more dish like shape it looks it's in two pieces top and bottom but cant see for sure. I can't get the plate out seems to be connected behind the flywheel.

the fly wheel has alignment pins! there are not any pins of this type-probably larger on the back of the block-going through the plate?
if not are they stuck in the bell housing?

yes, I did find the alignment pins but they only align the top part.

then dremel away-possible the bottom parts got bent
also-the pic from the side shows a bar-or somethinh between the fly wheel & the plate?
i have seen these plates get distorted enough that they rub on the back of the flywheel when started-makes a terrible noise

between 1 to 10 how bad is this idea? :/ :)

probaly a 5,-there is 'some' reason the holes do not line up
dremel the holes out - put some 'short' bolts in to pull it to the engine-look up from the bottom- is the plate not touching the flywheel.
what is the bar in mentioned?

no the plate does not touch the fly wheel it's on there pretty good. the other area of the plate is good, no worping or damaged. but like you said there is a reason why it wont line up. the bar in the pic is I think to lower the front of the truck, it;s not in the fly wheel or wedged in anything.

no the plate does not touch the fly wheel it's on there pretty good. the other area of the plate is good, no worping or damaged. but like you said there is a reason why it wont line up. the bar in the pic is I think to lower the front of the truck, it;s not in the fly wheel or wedged in anything.

then give a try with the grinder

wish me luck! I'll keep you posted as soon as it's done. again thank you for all your help.

wish me luck! I'll keep you posted as soon as it's done. again thank you for all your help.

let me know -how it turns out
try the bolts with the heads cut off
be sure to use a clutch disk alignment tool
check/change trans oil while you are at it

let me know -how it turns out
try the bolts with the heads cut off
be sure to use a clutch disk alignment tool
check/change trans oil while you are at it

that was a lot of work but satisfied. I don't know if changing timing belt on a acura integera or doing this was harder but it's done. i don't know if it shifts yet but I got everything put together other then the bolts for the drive shaft. It took me almost 10 hours but I was kinda taking my time and I have a small garage so I was looking for tools alot, I had it scattered everywhere. tomorrow I'm going to finish it off and start on the tune up and valve cover gaskets since i got the air cleaner off.
thanks for all your help.Beer 4U2 and one last question: I'm trying to flush out the transmission oil, I was just ganna squirt some transmission oil in the hole and just drain it out and I was wondering if I would hurt anything if I poured some in to the shifter opening, I haven't put the shifter in yet.

does it not have a drain plug.-& a fill plug?
most of what i have seen on some of the import vehicles -
both plugs look about the same-with a 24mm(15/16") head.

I have a new prob.

New thread: 89 mazda b2200 wont start.

I have a new prob.

New thread: 89 mazda b2200 wont start.

i thought that was 'you' in the other post.