Insulation, Radiant and Vapor Barriers - Need insulation advice for basement

I attached a link below and I need advice if the rooms can be insulated or not. I'm not going to close these interior walls but just add fiberglass R-13 batts on them since we'll be using the basement on winter season. When we bought the house the rooms are already as it is. I'm not sure if this is common to utility rooms not being insulated. Also when the heater is on the temp below takes longer than the above floors. If so possible to insulate what type of batts(faced,unfaced,vapor retarders etc..). I'm not into construction but design so thanks to anyone who could help. It gets really cold down there about 3-5 degrees lower than above floor.

Picasa Web Albums - pdiosomito - Basement Insu... (http://picasaweb.google.com/pxleak/BasementInsulation2009#5385997228302786258)

Hi, your link isn't working for me.

Here is some help for posting photos:
http://forum.doityourself.com/electrical-c-d-c/400914-how-put-pictures-your-post.html

And another link to give you some information on insulating a basement.
RR-0202: Basement Insulation Systems — (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0202-basement-insulation-systems/view?searchterm=basement)

Bud

Sorry I removed the link from my previous post because it took longer than expected to get an answer. I'm re posting the link below. I have decided to postpone it for this year since this is our first time on this house for winter. I would like to still get advice next years basement insulation.

This is the exact layout for the basement. The outside wall are insulated and the colored rooms are heated rooms and vented. The checkered floor which is has the full bath is heated also and heated tile floors. The utility room (water heater, fuse box etc..) and the next room on the right beside the stairs going up have no batts on them and are open as you can see.

So do I use kraft paper-faced batts on the walls. I'm not going to close these walls but just place batts to insulate and keep the other rooms warm which are already heated. I also already wrapped the water heater with a blanket. The studs are 3 1/2 inch tick and spacing of 15. Maybe a r-13 type would do?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_BRhefuCTzBE/StyZdpfS8zI/AAAAAAAAABc/rL2es4y_ciw/s800/10.jpg

Hi px, basements are perhaps the most difficult area of a home to insulate and finish. The building science link above is a good place to start your reading.
The first rule you have to accept is that ALL basements deal with moisture in two forms. Water or moisture comming through from the outside and condensation on the inside when the air is warm and humid and the walls are cool. If one doesn't get you the other will.

New construction with rubber membrane below and around the foundation combined with several inches or rigid insulation to remove the chill and you could have a dry basement. Those homes are few and far between. The rest of us have to prepare to handle the moisture after it enters.

My preference is one or two inches of rigid (pink or blue with no foil or plastic covering) glued to the walls. Of highest importance is the foundation area that is exposed to the outside, plus one foot below grade. These areas have the greatest heat loss and the least amount of moisture. Below that it could be left to breathe. If your moisture conditions are very good, the rigid can be continued to the floor, since rigid will pass a small amount of moisture to help the walls remain dry be hind the rigid. If you then want some fiberglass, add your framing and insulate, but no vapor barrier. This approach is one of the approaches proposed by building science and others. Be aware that books and builders are still promoting fiberglass right up against the foundation and covered with plastic. I subscribe to the new thoery that you need to peovide a path for the moisture to escape, or else it will accumulate and cause problems.

If you need more reading let us know and good luck with your project.

Bud

The little room next to the stairs is fine without insulation. It's part of your conditioned space. Even though it may be cooler than the other rooms, this is likely because it has no airflow and/or door is kept shut. It would make no more sense to insulate it than insulating the walls of an interior bathroom on the main living space; it's "insulation" are all the warmer rooms that are around it.

The larger room being uninsulated is strange, because your conditioned space (all the other rooms) are up against this unconditioned space and given that one portion of it in particular (its door) is not going to insulate well at all (doors are thin, have gaps, etc.) it would probably make sense to insulate its walls at the exterior.

If you look at what you have now and follow the surface area of those "cold" walls, it's much higher than it would be if you insulated that larger storage room; its new "cold" wall surface area would be greatly diminished. As it is you have cold going against two walls in the bathroom and the wall of the storage room door and then the north wall of that room.