Flooring Tile - bathtub surround tiling ???
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Crocostimpy
09-25-09, 03:21 PM
It all started with a ceramic soap dish that fell off the shower wall. I won't bore anybody with the subsequent details, but the end result is that I am going to take down the tile and drywall (wetwall now) from around the tub and replace it all. I've tiled the floor in my foyer so I have the basic knowledge, but after searching around here still have a couple of questions.
One of the walls to be tiled will only be tiled out to a little beyond the tub. The ceiling above the tub is not at the same height as the rest of the room, and it makes sense to only tile out to where the tub ceiling ends - which is the way it is now anyways. So when I cut out the existing drywall and install the cement board (CB), what do I do where the CB meets the drywall? I'm assuming the drywall is 1/2" thick. If I get the same thickness CB then I won't have a problem with the two being uneven, but what do I tape that joint with? Thinset or drywall mud? I'm thinking I want the tile to extend a little over the joint when it's installed.
Second question is similar to the first, but this concerns an outside corner. The short wall with the plumbing shares a corner with a painted wall. I'm assuming there is a corner bead there, which I'll have to take out, but do I put one back in? If not that corner will most likely get dinged up. If I do put it on then the wall will not be flat as it leads up to the corner after it's mudded. Corners always flair out a bit when they're mudded. I'm thinking about maybe using a corner tile (if it exists in whatever I choose) to cover the corner, but that might limit my choice of tile.
I'm most likely going to use a glazed 4x4" tile. The tub is a coated iron tub (circa late 70s), which I will keep. I like the feel of the metal tubs better than plastic anyway, and the almond color is not terrible. I know to put a vapor barrier under the CB, but what do you do with it at the top of the tub? Does it need to be taped to the tub somehow? Or just stop short?
Sorry for the long post. I found most of my answers after searching the forum, but just had a few that I didn't.
One of the walls to be tiled will only be tiled out to a little beyond the tub. The ceiling above the tub is not at the same height as the rest of the room, and it makes sense to only tile out to where the tub ceiling ends - which is the way it is now anyways. So when I cut out the existing drywall and install the cement board (CB), what do I do where the CB meets the drywall? I'm assuming the drywall is 1/2" thick. If I get the same thickness CB then I won't have a problem with the two being uneven, but what do I tape that joint with? Thinset or drywall mud? I'm thinking I want the tile to extend a little over the joint when it's installed.
Second question is similar to the first, but this concerns an outside corner. The short wall with the plumbing shares a corner with a painted wall. I'm assuming there is a corner bead there, which I'll have to take out, but do I put one back in? If not that corner will most likely get dinged up. If I do put it on then the wall will not be flat as it leads up to the corner after it's mudded. Corners always flair out a bit when they're mudded. I'm thinking about maybe using a corner tile (if it exists in whatever I choose) to cover the corner, but that might limit my choice of tile.
I'm most likely going to use a glazed 4x4" tile. The tub is a coated iron tub (circa late 70s), which I will keep. I like the feel of the metal tubs better than plastic anyway, and the almond color is not terrible. I know to put a vapor barrier under the CB, but what do you do with it at the top of the tub? Does it need to be taped to the tub somehow? Or just stop short?
Sorry for the long post. I found most of my answers after searching the forum, but just had a few that I didn't.
HotinOKC
09-25-09, 06:01 PM
I'm assuming the drywall is 1/2" thick. If I get the same thickness CB then I won't have a problem with the two being uneven, but what do I tape that joint with?
1/2" hardiebacker is actually 7/16", but it will meet flush with 1/2" drywall. You can use regular drywall compound and tape for this area if you wish. You can also use thinset and tile board tape.
I'm assuming there is a corner bead there, which I'll have to take out, but do I put one back in?
I would put the corner bead back in and you can feather the corner out with thinset or drywall compound.
I know to put a vapor barrier under the CB, but what do you do with it at the top of the tub? Does it need to be taped to the tub somehow? Or just stop short?
The plastic will drape down into the tub, then you will install your CB about 1/4" up off the tub flange. You will then trim your plastic and caulk that joint when you are done tiling. You basically want to ensure any moisture that may get through the tile and behind the board, will drain back into the tub if needed.
Let us know if you have anymore questions, or if you need one of us to clarify anything. We are here to help.
1/2" hardiebacker is actually 7/16", but it will meet flush with 1/2" drywall. You can use regular drywall compound and tape for this area if you wish. You can also use thinset and tile board tape.
I'm assuming there is a corner bead there, which I'll have to take out, but do I put one back in?
I would put the corner bead back in and you can feather the corner out with thinset or drywall compound.
I know to put a vapor barrier under the CB, but what do you do with it at the top of the tub? Does it need to be taped to the tub somehow? Or just stop short?
The plastic will drape down into the tub, then you will install your CB about 1/4" up off the tub flange. You will then trim your plastic and caulk that joint when you are done tiling. You basically want to ensure any moisture that may get through the tile and behind the board, will drain back into the tub if needed.
Let us know if you have anymore questions, or if you need one of us to clarify anything. We are here to help.
Wayne Mitchell
09-27-09, 07:22 AM
Locate the drywall/CB joint so that the tile will overlap the joint.
Crocostimpy
09-28-09, 06:37 AM
Thanks for the replies. I plan on trying to hide the joint, but I don't know how bad the drywall will get torn up when I remove the tile until I actually do it. It could turn into a fairly major drywall repair job. That will be just my luck too. ; )
I plan on collecting materials and starting this in a couple of weeks. I want to update the fixtures while I'm in there too. I'm sure I'll have questions for the plumbing forum.
I plan on collecting materials and starting this in a couple of weeks. I want to update the fixtures while I'm in there too. I'm sure I'll have questions for the plumbing forum.