Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - Air Compressor issue. Yes another one
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56MercMan
09-25-09, 01:36 PM
OK I read through some posts as well as the sticky up top about air compressors but did not find what I need to know. So I am hoping someone can help.
I have an old Devilbiss Air Compressor. Model # PAFTV560V-1. About a year ago I replaced the Check valve. About 3 weeks ago the outlet tube that goes from the front piston to the back piston popped off. I loosened the nut put the tube back in and tightened it. It has stayed fine now. (Just telling this in case it helps lead to what I need now)
My Issue...The compressor used to air up to about 120 (Could be a little less or more) then kick off. Then when I used some air it would cycle back on like it is supposed to. NOW the compressor runs and gets upto about 100lbs but just keeps running. It does not kick off or build up enough pressure to kick off or blow the safety pressure valve. It also seems like it takes longer to build up the pressure.
I am kind of clueless when it comes to these but I am very handy and can fix just about anything when I know what to fix. I just don't know where to start on this thing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all.
My compressor:
http://www.devap.com/repair_pdfs/AC/OIL_FREE/OILFREE_PDFS/ftv560v-1.pdf
I have an old Devilbiss Air Compressor. Model # PAFTV560V-1. About a year ago I replaced the Check valve. About 3 weeks ago the outlet tube that goes from the front piston to the back piston popped off. I loosened the nut put the tube back in and tightened it. It has stayed fine now. (Just telling this in case it helps lead to what I need now)
My Issue...The compressor used to air up to about 120 (Could be a little less or more) then kick off. Then when I used some air it would cycle back on like it is supposed to. NOW the compressor runs and gets upto about 100lbs but just keeps running. It does not kick off or build up enough pressure to kick off or blow the safety pressure valve. It also seems like it takes longer to build up the pressure.
I am kind of clueless when it comes to these but I am very handy and can fix just about anything when I know what to fix. I just don't know where to start on this thing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all.
My compressor:
http://www.devap.com/repair_pdfs/AC/OIL_FREE/OILFREE_PDFS/ftv560v-1.pdf
marksr
09-25-09, 02:45 PM
Welcome to the forums!
Have you made sure the drive belt isn't slipping?
Have you made sure the drive belt isn't slipping?
GregH
09-25-09, 03:29 PM
That looks to be a direct drive diaphram compressor and it is possible that the diaphram or reed valves are worn.
The sad part is that it looks like those parts are not available.
The sad part is that it looks like those parts are not available.
56MercMan
09-25-09, 04:37 PM
Thanks for the welcome. Just found this place and looks cool. I like doing my own stuff. So far I have doen ALOT to my new/1st home. It is a direct drive unit.
SO these Diaphram/reeds. Are they something I can check? I just looked around on this picture which is the pump and could not find anything that looks like a diaphragm or reeds. Or has that name? Any help on what to look at?
http://www.devap.com/repair_pdfs/AC/OIL_FREE/pumps/ac-0051.pdf
I appreciate the help.
SO these Diaphram/reeds. Are they something I can check? I just looked around on this picture which is the pump and could not find anything that looks like a diaphragm or reeds. Or has that name? Any help on what to look at?
http://www.devap.com/repair_pdfs/AC/OIL_FREE/pumps/ac-0051.pdf
I appreciate the help.
GregH
09-25-09, 05:04 PM
Ok,
Your compressor uses an non lubricated piston of sorts as opposed to a diaphram.
Item 4 is what provides a seal to the cylinder wall.
The reed valves are affixed to item 8.
If there are no other leaks then it is possible these parts are bad.
Your compressor uses an non lubricated piston of sorts as opposed to a diaphram.
Item 4 is what provides a seal to the cylinder wall.
The reed valves are affixed to item 8.
If there are no other leaks then it is possible these parts are bad.
56MercMan
09-25-09, 05:34 PM
Ok,
Your compressor uses an non lubricated piston of sorts as opposed to a diaphram.
Item 4 is what provides a seal to the cylinder wall.
The reed valves are affixed to item 8.
If there are no other leaks then it is possible these parts are bad.
Thanks Greg. I found a rebuild kit part # K-0650 online for like $31.
- Includes cylinder tube, piston ring and clamp screw, and valve plate o-rings (as pictured)
- Does not include piston (connecting rod), valve plate, or head gaskets
I was thinking this would possibly be worth trying. Looks like it is what you are thinking the issue may be as well.
Agree? $31 is worth a shot right?
Again thank you very much
Your compressor uses an non lubricated piston of sorts as opposed to a diaphram.
Item 4 is what provides a seal to the cylinder wall.
The reed valves are affixed to item 8.
If there are no other leaks then it is possible these parts are bad.
Thanks Greg. I found a rebuild kit part # K-0650 online for like $31.
- Includes cylinder tube, piston ring and clamp screw, and valve plate o-rings (as pictured)
- Does not include piston (connecting rod), valve plate, or head gaskets
I was thinking this would possibly be worth trying. Looks like it is what you are thinking the issue may be as well.
Agree? $31 is worth a shot right?
Again thank you very much
GregH
09-25-09, 08:26 PM
You should get the head gaskets.
Also, the problem could be the valve plate but you could try the piston repair and see how it goes.
Might be worth trying to fix.
Also, the problem could be the valve plate but you could try the piston repair and see how it goes.
Might be worth trying to fix.