Water Heaters - Nobody knows what to do - Help please...

I have an Electric Hot Water Heater (40 gal) that is about 3 yrs. old. It started leaking from the pop off valve about 4 mths. ago. Well last month we put a new pop off valve on.. it leaked. So a week later we put on a new pop off valve # 2 again....again it leaked. Sometimes it takes a couple of days for it to leak and to fill up a large glass cup.

We decide to check the water pressure (normal is around 60 pounds) mine was 90. OK, so we go get a regulator at Lowe's, and climb under the house, take the old regulator off and put on the new regulator, (yes, it has an arrow that shows you which way to put it on).

Now a couple of days after that, I'm brushing my teeth with the cold water on and it gets pretty WARM...even in the other bathroom my kids complain of the cold water getting hot.. like taking a shower. All we did was put a new regulator on.

It stopped the leaking for about 5 days. Now it's leaking again. Does anybody know what is going on?????? HELP PLEASE. :madhell::wall::mad::confused:

Kyle

Hi Kyle, Have you checked the hot water temperature. A stuck thermostat on the water heater can cause it to overheat which can result in the leaking. Temp should be somewhere between 120 and 160 degrees. 120 is recommended for safety and energy efficiency.

Bud

Hello Kyle,

If it isn't temperature as Bud9051 said then...


Put the pressure gauge back on.
Run the hot water until the water heater starts heating.
Stop running the water and do not use any water (hot or cold).
Watch the pressure gauge. Give it time.
If it is a thermal expansion problem the pressure will slowly creep up to around 140+ and the relief will start dripping.
If that happens then you need a thermal expansion tank (suitable for potable water!) installed on the cold side of the water heater.

:)

Thank you.
I'll try this in a few days from now. Maybe this will work. I just didn't know what to do next. I was lost.

Kyle :o

Aren't the T&P valves set for 150 psi on water heaters? If it is leaking there is a problem. May need an expansion tank if pressure changes a lot. not normal for electric water heater but if pressure changes a lot when heating and not running away that will resolve the problem.

I'm betting that there already IS an expansion tank, and it has failed...

I'm moving this thread to the proper forum...

What do you mean you are going to move this thread to the proper forum? It is in the proper forum.

And #2. You lost your bet. There IS NOT an expansion tank!

And #2. You lost your bet. There IS NOT an expansion tank!

BINGO! Your water system is operating in a closed fashion due to your pressure reducing valve. It acts as a check valve, preventing the overpressure from thermal expansion from going back into the municipal distribution system. So the only relief available is through the T&P pop off valve.

You need to have an expansion tank installed. There was nothing wrong with the "leaky" T&P valves....they were doing their job. Continued use without an expansion tank will put undue wear on the T&P valves and could lead to pressure "relieving" through a more unacceptable venue, such as blowing the hoses on your washing machine.

Thank you
We'll get it done next week, hopefully.

Thanks for ya'lls help

Kyle

What do you mean you are going to move this thread to the proper forum? It is in the proper forum.

Yes, NOW it is... because I moved it! You STARTED the thread in the forum for "Boilers - Steam and Hot Water Systems Radiators & Baseboard Heating Systems"...

I wouldn't think that the lack of expansion tank would be a problem UNLESS there was a CHECK VALVE installed on the cold water inlet to the water heater (actually, ANYWHERE between the city water supply to the home, and the water heater). The city water system should be able to absorb the pressure created by heating the water.

Waitaminnit... I reread Beachboy's reply... and he's probly spot on... that the regulator is acting as the check valve... BUT, does that explain why it was failing BEFORE adding the regulator?

Is there another check valve in the line somewhere?

take the old regulator off and put on the new regulator

OK, so I just read this part again, and am surprised that the old valve went three years before opening the first time!

OK, so I just read this part again, and am surprised that the old valve went three years before opening the first time!

Several possibilities. It is possible the old pressure regulator had an internal bypass that was able to bypass back to the city system when the pressure on the house side exceeded the city pressure. It is also possible that the water utility changed out the water meters for models that incorporate a check valve. I think there is a federal requirement for water utilities to do the latter although I have no idea of the time frame allowed.

I do know that a couple of years ago my city changed out the water meters, adding remote reading transmitters, and ever since then my water pressure will rise somewhat if the water heater fires and no water is used. I have several large "air chambers" in my system so the pressure rise is somewhat controlled along with my rarely going more than a couple of hours without using some water. I'll install an expansion tank when I install a new water heater which will probably come sooner rather than later since the present one is almost eleven years old.