All Trucks, Campers, Trailers, RV's and Motor Homes - 98 Dakota back again

Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.




View Full Version : 98 Dakota back again


diybarbs
09-06-09, 11:55 AM
Hello all. Ball joints done. Also added inner and outer tie rod ends and also idler arm. Seems like I got my "old girl" back again. Actually hasn't been aligned yet due to holiday but I got it very close by measuring "between two fixed points". Alignment Tuesday and I am not going very far. One thing I did notice on the outer tie rod ends (Moog). When I installed castle nut it seems that the nut is actually below the hole for the cotter pin. Maybe not all the way below but close. NO I DID NOT OVER TIGHTEN - if that's possible. I cross referenced part and it is correct. I am just assuming that the part can be used for other applications that might have a thicker spindle connection. This I did not cross-reference. Anybody heard of this? Feels beautiful. I can just add a washer:thinker:


Unclediezel
09-07-09, 02:36 AM
Ok.....

Yes you may add a washer between the castle nut and spindle,provided the hole in the washer is wide enough as not to interfere with tightening the nut completely....

BUT....

Since these are "TAPERED-FIT"...There are ONLY 2 explanations for your issue.....1...The parts are incorrect, as you have seen can happen very easily with Your BallJoints, even though the "Cross" tells you differently....or 2....The spindle is worn, and the taper pulls too far in when you tighten the nut.....Remember..the larger the hole in the spindle, the larger the taper that will fit, and the further beyond the hole it will extend..

With a small screwdriver...carefully pry the "Grease Boot " back, and make sure you have some "GAP" between the joint and spindle.
Although it really isnt the correct way to finish things..That 12 cent washer is mighty tempting as opposed to a 200$ spindle...Just be prepared to buy a spindle before the next Tie rod replacement is necessary.

diybarbs
09-07-09, 10:37 AM
I already checked that. Everything is fine. I guess it's just the way it fits. It is not completely over top of nut just close to it. Could just be my imagination. I'm not going to worry about it and I can guarantee you there is no safety question whatsoever. I would be all over that. Anyway I don't envision this truck seeing a "next tie rod replacement":D:D


newtofta
09-15-09, 10:59 AM
i work for a 'ford ' dealer.
some of our repacement tie rods do this,if you reuse the original castle nut.
the replacement nut is similar to a 4x2 ft wheel bearing nut,( a flat nut ,with a stamped castle nut cover that goes over it)

diybarbs
09-16-09, 05:03 PM
Yea it's Ok. I pointed it out to the alignment guy. He says he sees it all the time. It's just a manufacturing difference. He said I wasn't really his definition of below it anyway. (If I remember it came with it's own nut) He said theoretically once you "seat" it by tightening it you can take the nut off and go. I'll pass on that:coffee:

newtofta
09-16-09, 08:45 PM
yes, basicly, that is correct-it is the taper that creates the strength of the joint-not the nut.