Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Opening up patio - removing existing framing and installing headers?

I have a 8 x 12 foot concrete foundation "back porch". The roof trusses extend out over the slab, and it is framed in just like a house would be (as far as I can tell). At the bottom of the framing (where the bottom lateral board meets the concrete) there are a number of lag bolts, and nuts that are attached to the slab underneath.

Removing the framing and installing the header properly isn't a concern. But removing the lag bolts and bottom portion of the frame is. should I be worried? is there another way around? FYI, there is no 2nd story, no snow here in Florida, and it's 8 feet from the main exterior wall of the house.



My plan is to "rough in a french door opening" (like a 7 foot opening) but not put in any doors yet. Eventually I'd like to close off the old back porch so that it's weather proof, but unconditioned (no A/C or heat - so a sunroom if you will). But for right now, I'd just like the framing removed so that we can enjoy clean passage to our deck without walking through the dirt.

Here are some pictures I took:
http://www.johnrex.com/S5005285.JPG
http://www.johnrex.com/S5005283.JPG
http://www.johnrex.com/S5005286.JPG
http://www.johnrex.com/S5005287.JPG
http://www.johnrex.com/S5005288.JPG

johnwr1983

Welcome to the forums.

As long as you temporarily support the ceiling/roof of the porch before you begin removing the framing and installing the new framing that you want, with the 7' opening and a proper header above that opening, you'll be fine. Once the framing is installed, you can remove the temporary support. That temporary support is simply a 2X4 framed wall that sits on the concrete and is tight to the ceiling. Install it a couple of feet inside of the existing wall so that you have room to work.

Only remove the seven feet of wll where you want the opening to be, leaving the rest of it (in each corner) in tact. If it's rotten, you can remove the old and replace it with new. The bottom 2X4 (if you replace it) needs to be pressure treated. There need to be bolts in the two sections of the wall that you leave.

As far as the bolts, those are anchor bolts that were installed in the concrete when it was formed and poured. You won't remove them. Simply cut them off flush with the concrete within the 7' opening. Removing the bottom plate in that opening of the wall won't hurt a thing.

The problem with sun porches is they sometimes get converted to living space. Usually without proper foundations , just a slab- 3 or 4" thick. You will be putting a point load on the slab, without a foundation. For a 7' span carrying 4' of roof and 18" of overhang, adds up to 1155#. Half that, 577# will be concentrated on 3"x3-1/2". Your concrete slab is not poured for this. You could dig along-side it to check if deeper than 4".

The other issue is the porch was probably not built with a permit or to code as shown by the lack of diagonal bracing in/on the walls. With a new 7' opening in a 12' wall, it leaves little room for the required corner bracing to prevent wracking. I know, it's been like that for years..... that doesn't make it safe or structural. If you don't get a permit at least notify your Insurance Carrier of the new deck and porch remodel to be covered against a claim if the roof blows off (due to no visible hurricane ties from top plates to rafters, who knows how it's tied to the house....).
Be safe, G

Thanks for the advice.

I dug down around the porch whenever I was putting my little free floating deck in the yard. The foundation looks to be 10-12" thick. The house itself is only 10 years old. This covered porch is the original and was built with the house. I contacted a local contractor and had him come by for an estimate. He says that it's a very simple and safe thing to do. He'd only charge me $150 with the lumber included since it's a simple job. But he said I'd have no trouble handling the job myself, and gave me a bit of advice.

I was looking into this "corner bracing" you mentioned. I can't find any articles, suggestions, or forum posts with people dealing with anything like you mentioned. Maybe there is another terminology for these braces? Pictures would be amazing! I'd rather be "safe than sorry" and add these braces while I'm working on it.

Thanks again!
John

Sounds like you're good on most of it, here is some --- Wall Bracing

Sec. 2326.11.3. Bracing. Braced wall lines shall consist of braced wall panels which meet the requirements for location, type and amount of bracing specified in Table 23-I-W and are in line or offset from each other by not more than 4 feet (1219 mm). Braced wall panels shall start at not more than 8 feet (2438 mm) from each end of a braced wall line. All braced wall panels shall be clearly indicated on the plans. Construction of braced wall panels shall be by one of the following methods:

1. Nominal 1-inch by 4-inch (25 mm by 102 mm) continuous diagonal braces let into top and bottom plates and intervening studs, placed at an angle not more than 60 degrees or less than 45 degrees from horizontal, and attached to the framing in conformance with Table 23-I-Q.
2. Wood boards of 5/8-inch (16 mm) net minimum thickness applied diagonally on studs spaced not From this: Single Family Residential Construction Guide - Wall Framing (http://www.mcvicker.com/resguide/page009.htm) Scroll down to bracing, notice the footnotes.
Be safe, G