Garages and Carports - Need advice for plans I have about my Leaning Garage
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Need advice for plans I have about my Leaning Garage
CamaroGarage
08-24-09, 06:14 PM
:wall:
My carport is is making half of my garage lean to the side carport is on.
My garage was built in 1943, as a one car model A style garage,with a concrete footer. It is still in good shape, has a concrete footer,built around the cement pad. Sometime after 43 a one car garage was built onto front of it. Which made it a 2 car shotgun, roof and siding were replaced then. 13 years ago new shingles were put on roof and carpot added.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage052.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage053.jpg
Here is where the carport is connected to the garage.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage058.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage057.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage056.jpg
My carport is is making half of my garage lean to the side carport is on.
My garage was built in 1943, as a one car model A style garage,with a concrete footer. It is still in good shape, has a concrete footer,built around the cement pad. Sometime after 43 a one car garage was built onto front of it. Which made it a 2 car shotgun, roof and siding were replaced then. 13 years ago new shingles were put on roof and carpot added.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage052.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage053.jpg
Here is where the carport is connected to the garage.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage058.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage057.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage056.jpg
CamaroGarage
08-24-09, 06:23 PM
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage063.jpg
The oil quart is on the side of the garage floor that has a concrete footer. The 1943 side.
Wall that is leaning, no concrete footer.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage062.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage059.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage074.jpg
The oil quart is on the side of the garage floor that has a concrete footer. The 1943 side.
Wall that is leaning, no concrete footer.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage062.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage059.jpg
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage074.jpg
CamaroGarage
08-24-09, 06:40 PM
When I say lean to board I'm talking about the white wood board in this pic
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage056.jpg
Inside the garage in this pic
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage069.jpg
I'm not too worried about pushing garage back upright unless its prone to fall if I don't. What I need to do is strengthen it enough to survive the crazy Ohio Valley storm season and put a new roof on carport.
My plan #1 to dig 3ft post holes right outside the garage wall. These holes will be almost parallel to lean to boards coming off side of roof.
#2Cementing 4x6 wood poles in the holes and bolting them to the lean to boards.
I will cut a hole in carport roof for pole to stick out. This way I will be able to leave carport connected and put in one pole at a time. Eventually I would have every lean to board bolted to a 4x6.
#3 Take out skeleton frame from wall that is leaning and have roof on 4x6 poles on one side.
#4 Use same 4x6 poles to support new carport roof.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated and thank you for reading.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage056.jpg
Inside the garage in this pic
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll169/heather22584/Garage/emilyspartyandgarage069.jpg
I'm not too worried about pushing garage back upright unless its prone to fall if I don't. What I need to do is strengthen it enough to survive the crazy Ohio Valley storm season and put a new roof on carport.
My plan #1 to dig 3ft post holes right outside the garage wall. These holes will be almost parallel to lean to boards coming off side of roof.
#2Cementing 4x6 wood poles in the holes and bolting them to the lean to boards.
I will cut a hole in carport roof for pole to stick out. This way I will be able to leave carport connected and put in one pole at a time. Eventually I would have every lean to board bolted to a 4x6.
#3 Take out skeleton frame from wall that is leaning and have roof on 4x6 poles on one side.
#4 Use same 4x6 poles to support new carport roof.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated and thank you for reading.
GMC MH
09-06-09, 09:37 PM
I've been watching to see if you would get a response from a pro regarding your Camaro garage plight. I'm only a DIY'er but I've done most of the things required for corrections to your garage. You're wise in taking action now because it will only get worse and more difficult. I would strongly recommend straightening the building as the first step - you will not be able to go back and do it later without much greater difficulty.
First step is to remove any angular bracing which may be original and especially remove any that was added as the building leaned over. There is no bracing showing in you photos except one flimsy board - this is the cause of the leaning - poor design in 1943. You need to get the structure as flexible as possible, but use great care and realize it could fall - not likely to happen though because it's not leaning far and seems quite settled where it is.
If you have access to CAT or any kind of earth moving equipment, you can push against the upper/left of the carport to force the structure back into alignment. Do this by temporarily hanging a large (bigger is better) beam across the top of the posts to spread the pressure exerted by the CAT.
I have done this. Be fully aware of the inherent dangers at this point, both to humans and structure. When a portion of the structure is "square" go inside and put angle braces and sheer sheets in place.
No CAT? I've often used a couple of Harbor Freight's "1200 Lb. Capacity Cable Puller"
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=30131 For your project I'd suggest 3 of them so you can leave two in place while relocating the third. Used inside of the garage, attach these "come-alongs" to the top of the left wall and to the bottom of the right wall. You will need very firm attachments at these locations, perhaps by boring holes through the studs near the tops/bottoms. You'll need to rig some type of attachment hardware. Probably your greatest difficulty here is to not pull the right/bottom wall inward - but that can be corrected with a sledge hammer. I've done this method also, and would rate it as the safer of the two.
You will not be able to force the entire building into square at one time. I would suggest doing the center of the building first, which should be the weakest and most flexible. Next do the front, and lastly the rear which will be squaring the entire rear wall.
About bracing: There is very little strength in a square corner, such as where the top of the wall meets the rafters and ceiling joists. Joists are the 2x4's that that go across top, from wall to wall, at ceiling level. Often these old garages have very few of them and often they are not aligned with the wall studs, which makes it difficult to install angular bracing = hence, there is few or none of them also. These braces are the ONLY thing that effectively hold a building erect.!!! If you do not have ceiling joists that align with the studs, you will need to install them.....not for every stud, but try to do at least every-other-one. The 2x4 braces should be something like 18" to 24" long (the longer, the better, but not so low it becomes a head-bang'er) and installed at a 45 degree angle.
Work order: Work in the center first as to allow correction of the sagging roof. With the size and shape of your building, I believe I'd do it in fifths. Otherwise you may be putting up bracing in areas that are not properly squared. Do center 1/5; next the front; then 2/5 in; then 4/5 in; and lastly do the rear.
Roof: Now is you chance to correct the sagging roof. It may be sagging simply because the new addition does not have ceiling joists. You should address at the beginning of your project so the joists can be corrected before the angle braces are added. The joist are what hold the top of the wall together and if missing the walls will spread, allowing the rafters to drop. Use your cable pullers to pull the top of the walls inward/together so the width will match the width measured at the rear/front walls. This action should push the roof upward. Install joists to lock in the wall-to-wall width. For installing joist you will also need to use metal hardware (joist hangers), simply toe-nailing will not hold the wall in place with the weight of the roof upon them. With the roof corrected you will not be wasting the re-roofing expense on a structure that will continue to settle.
Front wall: 5/8" or 3/4" Plywood creates a sheer-plane, which is a flat panel that cannot change shape. While holding the front square, install as much plywood to the inside walls as possible, especially within 2' to 3' of the upper corners and fully out to the doorway corners. Here you are mimicking the angular bracing along the wall, but these panels are even more important and more effective. Use lots of nails here. I would even use some "Gorilla Glue" between the panels and studs (it doesn't take much.) If the door opening is sagging, here is your chance to add overhead support and a full sheet of plywood across the top will do much to hold up the door opening's header. Do a good job on the front wall as it is a weak point with the large door cutout, and it is the most visible display of your workmanship.
Rear: Do this much as you did the front wall, but add as much material as possible, again especially 2-3' square in the upper corners. Actually, covering the entire wall would be best. OSB (Oriented Strand Board) will be less expensive and appropriate here. Maybe 1/2" or 5/8". Lots of nails, 6" apart.
Somewhere I've seen clamps that would be very useful for attaching the come-alongs onto your 2x4's. Very rugged and designed so the harder you pull, the harder they clamp on - think of the carrier tool used with ice blocks. They could easily be relocated, greatly reducing your set-up time. I don't know where to find them nor what they are called. Ask at a good independent lumber company or as a building contractor.
Of course, as you suggested, there is no requirement to do all of the straightening of the structure, simply add the bracing and sheer planes and you'll have a building that won't soon be falling down. I would definitely add joist if they are not already there or the roof will increasingly sag as the walls spread.
I wish you the best of luck with your project. It really should not be a great expense, and not really all that much work. The come-alongs will do the heavy lifting. You will end up with a building you can be proud of and a good place to protect and maintain that Camaro. I hope you will post your progress here. I'll watch every day or two - please come back with any questions.
GMC MH, in Oregon.
First step is to remove any angular bracing which may be original and especially remove any that was added as the building leaned over. There is no bracing showing in you photos except one flimsy board - this is the cause of the leaning - poor design in 1943. You need to get the structure as flexible as possible, but use great care and realize it could fall - not likely to happen though because it's not leaning far and seems quite settled where it is.
If you have access to CAT or any kind of earth moving equipment, you can push against the upper/left of the carport to force the structure back into alignment. Do this by temporarily hanging a large (bigger is better) beam across the top of the posts to spread the pressure exerted by the CAT.
I have done this. Be fully aware of the inherent dangers at this point, both to humans and structure. When a portion of the structure is "square" go inside and put angle braces and sheer sheets in place.
No CAT? I've often used a couple of Harbor Freight's "1200 Lb. Capacity Cable Puller"
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=30131 For your project I'd suggest 3 of them so you can leave two in place while relocating the third. Used inside of the garage, attach these "come-alongs" to the top of the left wall and to the bottom of the right wall. You will need very firm attachments at these locations, perhaps by boring holes through the studs near the tops/bottoms. You'll need to rig some type of attachment hardware. Probably your greatest difficulty here is to not pull the right/bottom wall inward - but that can be corrected with a sledge hammer. I've done this method also, and would rate it as the safer of the two.
You will not be able to force the entire building into square at one time. I would suggest doing the center of the building first, which should be the weakest and most flexible. Next do the front, and lastly the rear which will be squaring the entire rear wall.
About bracing: There is very little strength in a square corner, such as where the top of the wall meets the rafters and ceiling joists. Joists are the 2x4's that that go across top, from wall to wall, at ceiling level. Often these old garages have very few of them and often they are not aligned with the wall studs, which makes it difficult to install angular bracing = hence, there is few or none of them also. These braces are the ONLY thing that effectively hold a building erect.!!! If you do not have ceiling joists that align with the studs, you will need to install them.....not for every stud, but try to do at least every-other-one. The 2x4 braces should be something like 18" to 24" long (the longer, the better, but not so low it becomes a head-bang'er) and installed at a 45 degree angle.
Work order: Work in the center first as to allow correction of the sagging roof. With the size and shape of your building, I believe I'd do it in fifths. Otherwise you may be putting up bracing in areas that are not properly squared. Do center 1/5; next the front; then 2/5 in; then 4/5 in; and lastly do the rear.
Roof: Now is you chance to correct the sagging roof. It may be sagging simply because the new addition does not have ceiling joists. You should address at the beginning of your project so the joists can be corrected before the angle braces are added. The joist are what hold the top of the wall together and if missing the walls will spread, allowing the rafters to drop. Use your cable pullers to pull the top of the walls inward/together so the width will match the width measured at the rear/front walls. This action should push the roof upward. Install joists to lock in the wall-to-wall width. For installing joist you will also need to use metal hardware (joist hangers), simply toe-nailing will not hold the wall in place with the weight of the roof upon them. With the roof corrected you will not be wasting the re-roofing expense on a structure that will continue to settle.
Front wall: 5/8" or 3/4" Plywood creates a sheer-plane, which is a flat panel that cannot change shape. While holding the front square, install as much plywood to the inside walls as possible, especially within 2' to 3' of the upper corners and fully out to the doorway corners. Here you are mimicking the angular bracing along the wall, but these panels are even more important and more effective. Use lots of nails here. I would even use some "Gorilla Glue" between the panels and studs (it doesn't take much.) If the door opening is sagging, here is your chance to add overhead support and a full sheet of plywood across the top will do much to hold up the door opening's header. Do a good job on the front wall as it is a weak point with the large door cutout, and it is the most visible display of your workmanship.
Rear: Do this much as you did the front wall, but add as much material as possible, again especially 2-3' square in the upper corners. Actually, covering the entire wall would be best. OSB (Oriented Strand Board) will be less expensive and appropriate here. Maybe 1/2" or 5/8". Lots of nails, 6" apart.
Somewhere I've seen clamps that would be very useful for attaching the come-alongs onto your 2x4's. Very rugged and designed so the harder you pull, the harder they clamp on - think of the carrier tool used with ice blocks. They could easily be relocated, greatly reducing your set-up time. I don't know where to find them nor what they are called. Ask at a good independent lumber company or as a building contractor.
Of course, as you suggested, there is no requirement to do all of the straightening of the structure, simply add the bracing and sheer planes and you'll have a building that won't soon be falling down. I would definitely add joist if they are not already there or the roof will increasingly sag as the walls spread.
I wish you the best of luck with your project. It really should not be a great expense, and not really all that much work. The come-alongs will do the heavy lifting. You will end up with a building you can be proud of and a good place to protect and maintain that Camaro. I hope you will post your progress here. I'll watch every day or two - please come back with any questions.
GMC MH, in Oregon.