Kitchen Gas Appliances - Frigidaire Gas Range
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cstar_1
08-22-09, 06:14 AM
I'm having trouble with my Frigidaire gas range. The information is
Frigidaire Gas Range with Convection Bake and Warm and Serve Drawer
Model Number FGFL8(2 missing letters or numbers)A
Serial Number VF34(again 2 missing letters or numbers)1814
Its hooked up to propane.
The problem I'm having is that when I press the buttons to start the oven (it has digital button controls for the oven)it starts but it takes a long time(2-4 hours) to heat up. While the oven heats up you can smell propane and when you open the oven door it sort of flares up at the bottom(like the oven needed the oxygen). The top of the oven and the broiler work fine. The ports on the main burner were just cleaned.
Frigidaire Gas Range with Convection Bake and Warm and Serve Drawer
Model Number FGFL8(2 missing letters or numbers)A
Serial Number VF34(again 2 missing letters or numbers)1814
Its hooked up to propane.
The problem I'm having is that when I press the buttons to start the oven (it has digital button controls for the oven)it starts but it takes a long time(2-4 hours) to heat up. While the oven heats up you can smell propane and when you open the oven door it sort of flares up at the bottom(like the oven needed the oxygen). The top of the oven and the broiler work fine. The ports on the main burner were just cleaned.
Sharp Advice
08-24-09, 08:02 AM
Hello cstar_1 and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and to the Gas Appliances topic.
One of the most common causes for the condition you're describing is a weak glow igniter. Not allowing gas control valve to fully open.
Solution is to replace the HSI. (Hot Surface Igniter)
Instructions in the sticky note:
Read The Sticky Advice And Information Note In This Topic:
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites.
Range/Stove/Oven/Broiler Info, Leak Detection, Fault Codes, Fuel Conversion & Links - DoItYourself.com Community Forums (http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808)
Another possible cause is a defective gas control valve. If you have replaced the igniter and the condition still exists, chances are the control valve needs to be replaced.
Instructional advice to replace gas control valve:
OVEN GAS VALVE REPLACEMENT:
Gas control valve is the part the burner tube end sets on. Will be located in the oven compartment. Will have two wires attached to it. The wires are the pull off type. Known as quick disconnects. Note the wire colors and to which terminal they go to. Be sure the appliance is disconnected from the electrical power.
Hold the rectangular gas control valve firmly in place and remove the gas supply line. That line will be an aluminum tube with a hex nut screwed into the gas control valve. Use a line box end wrench on the nut, if you have such.
Open ended wrenches can round out the hex nut, if allowed to slip when on the nut. Line wrench is hex shaped wrench with one side opened. That type of wrench grabs the nut on all but one side and does not slip off. Line wrenches are used by auto mechanics and available at auto parts stores.
If a line wrench is not available use caution. Unscrew hex nut but DO NOT allow gas valve part to twist. Once the aluminum tube nut is loosened all the way...DO NOT bent it out of the way. Unscrew the screws holding the gas valve and slip the gas control part off the tube.
Than place a few drops of OIL (any kind) onto the threads of the tubing nut. Slide new gas control part onto the nut and thread nut into control by hand. Secure gas part with the screws. That firmly by gently hold gas part in place and tighten the hex nut. DO NOT allow gas part to rotate during tightening of the tubing nut.
Replace burner back onto valve. Reassemble entire system. Restore electrical power and turn on supply gas. Test for gas leak at the hex nut. Use leak detector soap or make heavy solution of dish soap. Apply with small brush when gas is turned on. No bubbles should be visible.
Hope the information above helps.......:)
Cautionary Reminder Note:
Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.
Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.
Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers on line web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, repair and or owners manuals which may be available on line.
One of the most common causes for the condition you're describing is a weak glow igniter. Not allowing gas control valve to fully open.
Solution is to replace the HSI. (Hot Surface Igniter)
Instructions in the sticky note:
Read The Sticky Advice And Information Note In This Topic:
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites.
Range/Stove/Oven/Broiler Info, Leak Detection, Fault Codes, Fuel Conversion & Links - DoItYourself.com Community Forums (http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808)
Another possible cause is a defective gas control valve. If you have replaced the igniter and the condition still exists, chances are the control valve needs to be replaced.
Instructional advice to replace gas control valve:
OVEN GAS VALVE REPLACEMENT:
Gas control valve is the part the burner tube end sets on. Will be located in the oven compartment. Will have two wires attached to it. The wires are the pull off type. Known as quick disconnects. Note the wire colors and to which terminal they go to. Be sure the appliance is disconnected from the electrical power.
Hold the rectangular gas control valve firmly in place and remove the gas supply line. That line will be an aluminum tube with a hex nut screwed into the gas control valve. Use a line box end wrench on the nut, if you have such.
Open ended wrenches can round out the hex nut, if allowed to slip when on the nut. Line wrench is hex shaped wrench with one side opened. That type of wrench grabs the nut on all but one side and does not slip off. Line wrenches are used by auto mechanics and available at auto parts stores.
If a line wrench is not available use caution. Unscrew hex nut but DO NOT allow gas valve part to twist. Once the aluminum tube nut is loosened all the way...DO NOT bent it out of the way. Unscrew the screws holding the gas valve and slip the gas control part off the tube.
Than place a few drops of OIL (any kind) onto the threads of the tubing nut. Slide new gas control part onto the nut and thread nut into control by hand. Secure gas part with the screws. That firmly by gently hold gas part in place and tighten the hex nut. DO NOT allow gas part to rotate during tightening of the tubing nut.
Replace burner back onto valve. Reassemble entire system. Restore electrical power and turn on supply gas. Test for gas leak at the hex nut. Use leak detector soap or make heavy solution of dish soap. Apply with small brush when gas is turned on. No bubbles should be visible.
Hope the information above helps.......:)
Cautionary Reminder Note:
Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.
Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.
Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers on line web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, repair and or owners manuals which may be available on line.