Framing and Sub-Flooring - Hanging 2x8 Joists off 2x6 beam
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drinkingbird
08-16-09, 11:26 PM
Trying to decide the best way to do this.
See picture for reference... copyright Simpson Strong Tie, all rights reserved, etc etc.
http://www.strongtie.com/graphics/products/large/061a-2009.gif
These 2x8 hangers have 3 nail holes on each side of the beam facing connection, the 3rd/bottom one hangs below the beam and can't be used. Additionally, using the newer style hangers where instead of just nailing into the joist, they angle through the joist and into the beam, if you nail the bottom ones straight, they barely grab the beam.
So option 1:
On the beam facing connection, drill a hole in that empty tab for a 3rd nail leaving the bottom one empty. Obviously not full strength, but assuming better than doing nothing, and I can't see how this could possibly weaken the hanger. For the bottom joist hole, driving the nail at an upward angle grabs the beam just fine, and since there isn't much (if any) downward pressure here, its not going to pull out or anything. In 2 years or so when I renovate the floor below I can add a top plate (supported by studs) to the bottom of the beam and fill those last 2 beam facing holes.
Option 2:
Notch the 2x8s and use 2x6 hangers. This doesn't seem like it would be as strong to me but then I'm no structural engineer.
The span of the joists is only 8 feet, the other side is supported resting on top of a double top plate, the beam is only on one side. Joists are spaced 16" on center. The end that rests on the top plate and the middle of the span will have blocking/bridging installed, obviously not needed or really possible on the hanger end
I'm assuming due to the relatively short span, 16" OC spacing, and the fact that there won't be crazy weight placed in this room (its only 8x12 and is sunroom), I'm probably being paranoid and even just using the 2 holes would probably be fine, but figured someone must have run into this before and knows the "proper" way to do it.
There are various other ties and connectors that may work but nothing that I can find really designed for this, would rather use the intended connector at a reduced load ability than a non-intended connector and have no idea of the load ability.
Thx for any input
See picture for reference... copyright Simpson Strong Tie, all rights reserved, etc etc.
http://www.strongtie.com/graphics/products/large/061a-2009.gif
These 2x8 hangers have 3 nail holes on each side of the beam facing connection, the 3rd/bottom one hangs below the beam and can't be used. Additionally, using the newer style hangers where instead of just nailing into the joist, they angle through the joist and into the beam, if you nail the bottom ones straight, they barely grab the beam.
So option 1:
On the beam facing connection, drill a hole in that empty tab for a 3rd nail leaving the bottom one empty. Obviously not full strength, but assuming better than doing nothing, and I can't see how this could possibly weaken the hanger. For the bottom joist hole, driving the nail at an upward angle grabs the beam just fine, and since there isn't much (if any) downward pressure here, its not going to pull out or anything. In 2 years or so when I renovate the floor below I can add a top plate (supported by studs) to the bottom of the beam and fill those last 2 beam facing holes.
Option 2:
Notch the 2x8s and use 2x6 hangers. This doesn't seem like it would be as strong to me but then I'm no structural engineer.
The span of the joists is only 8 feet, the other side is supported resting on top of a double top plate, the beam is only on one side. Joists are spaced 16" on center. The end that rests on the top plate and the middle of the span will have blocking/bridging installed, obviously not needed or really possible on the hanger end
I'm assuming due to the relatively short span, 16" OC spacing, and the fact that there won't be crazy weight placed in this room (its only 8x12 and is sunroom), I'm probably being paranoid and even just using the 2 holes would probably be fine, but figured someone must have run into this before and knows the "proper" way to do it.
There are various other ties and connectors that may work but nothing that I can find really designed for this, would rather use the intended connector at a reduced load ability than a non-intended connector and have no idea of the load ability.
Thx for any input