Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - Wiring a motion sensor - DSC Power 832

Hey gang back again, have moved again to a new home and had the builder rough in the wiring now trying to finish it up but stumped. I have a DSC Power 832 panel, and DSC 5010(I think keypad). This is what I have so far and want to get his much working: Zone 1 is my front door switch, Zone 2 is my front hall motion, Z3 is my garage door entry switch and Z4 is my garden doors in the back.

I programmed it as follows *8 CODE 001 01 05 01 03 # #. My front door, garage door and back door work as they should but my motion does not manage to trip the alarm in any mode (stay or away).

Now this is how I wired it Green and yellow for Z1 (yellow to Z1 green to COM with a 5600 OHM resistor in series from yellow wire to Z1) for Z2 I went black and red to AUX + and - and Green to COM and Yellow in series with a resistor to Z2, zones 3 and 4 are repeat of Z1.

First question, do I need a resistor on the motion sensor wiring setup and is it in the right spot or should it be in parallel? Secondly does it matter where green and yellow are on the sensor in correspondence to where it is on the panel? Thirdly I have another keypad PK5500 that I would like to add, can I just add it to the panel in the same slots as my 5010?

Thanks in advance for any responses, I hope I covered everything.

TS

Your wiring and programming sounds right. When you arm the system to test it, are you opening and closing one of the entry exit doors? If you don't, the motion automatically bypasses.

Yes you wire the added keypad to the same terminals as the existing one.

Thanks for your speedy response MrRONFL (as usual) no I was not opening one of the entry/exit doors, do I do that during the delay period to simulate leaving the home?? Makes sense....

Well I tried to open an entry/exit door during the delay period but still no luck. Any other thoughts, anyway to test the sensor to make sure its wired properly, the LED light comes on when I pass in front of it, but anything I can check on the keypad when the LED light comes on...that way I know that my yellow and green wire are correct...

Thanks
TS

If someone is moving in front of the motion (or if you simply take one of the wires off of the alarm terminals, then the zone will show as open.

Either you have a wiring error, or you don't have the zones programmed the way you _think_ you have them programmed.

Also, are you letting the exit delay fully time out? If you didn't change it, older DSC panels have a 120sec (that's 2 _minute_) exit delay by default. Even if you chose "instant", you aren't actually armed until that time runs out (unless you shorten it...).

I tried what you said by having someone move in front of the sensor and it does not show as a zone that is open (the ready light does not go out) but he red led on the sensor lights up. I have changed the delay time to 30 sec for entry and exit. I double checked the programming and Z2 which is the motion sensor is set to 05 in section 001. Do I need to check another section to verify? Or is it a wiring issue. I am sure the black and red wire are fine (as the LED works) I will check continuity with the green and yellow to verify my rough in wiring is good.... Anything else to check?

Thanks

Checked continuity of all wires and all checks out ok with a meter. I know I asked above but not sure you answered me, does the resistor need to be in place for the motion sensor and should it be in series or in parallel. Thanks MrRONFL any other ideas would be appreciated. Is it possible that this zone is bypassed somewhere it seems to be working fine but for some reason the panel does not see it.

The resistor needs to be in series, just like the wiring diagram shows. It does not matter which leg of the alarm loop it is on. It should _not_ be in parallel across the alarm contact.

Again, simple test, take the wire off of the zone terminal on the motherboard. If the zone shows open, then you wired something wrong. If it doesn't, then you have something programmed wrong.

When you say if the zone shows open...could explain that? How/where do I check to see if the zone shows open, is it good enough to see if the ready light is on while the motion sensor LED is on??

You know which zone the motion is connected to (I hope).

We will use zone 2 as the example:

You take a wire off of the zone input.

If you have a LED keypad, the zone indicator for zone 2 will light, if you have an alpha keypad is will display zone 2 open, if you have something like the LCD5501 keypad the small number 2 at the top of the display will show that zone 2 is open.

This is all basic user manual stuff....

I have the alpha keypad Pk5500, and that is not being displayed, now am really stumped, wiring is not that hard not sure whats wrong, will recheck, is it possible that the zone is faulty, maybe will try hooking it to zone 5 or something.

I have triple checked all wires and all hooked up fine, I swapped Z2 and Z3 at the panel and reprogrmmed, now the motion works fine but the door contact on Z2 dont work. Is it possible to have one bad zone at the panel, or is some other setting turned off that completley disables that zone.

It is possible to disable the zone by either setting the zone type as 00, or by turning off the corresponding setting in location 202.

Could you have tried to change settings in location 102?

It is possible to have a bad zone input, but that would be uncommon on a new panel.

Thanks again for working with me on this, checked section 102 and it shows 1234_6_ _ and in section 202 it shows 12345678.

I think this is all still correct. For some reason whatever I put in zone 2 does not work regardless of the programming. I will try and leave zone 2 at 00 and move the door contact to an unused zone...weird to say the least. If you have any other suggestions please let me know.

Thanks for all your help your expertise in this field is an asset to all.

TS

Gotta be something wrong with that zone, moved it to a vacant zone I had and it works just fine, will just 00 out that zone and leave it. I have programmed that one LCD I have (5010) with all the room labels etc, want to pass that info to another keybus (5500) in the manual it says at the keybus that I have all programmed I press *8(installers code) then enter LCD programming at the keypad that was programmed then enter section [998], and it will broadcast to my other keypad all the info so I dont have to do it all again. Cant seem to get it to work. Just get a long beep. Both keypads are located on partition 1 slot 8, do I need to change one to slot 7 and then enable supervision again {902}??

Thanks

Yes, the two keypads need their own individual address to transfer the descriptors.

I set one to 11 and the other I left at 18. Then I went to enable supervision and nothing happened just a long beep. I also checked section [903] to see what was being supervised and it says no modules found. I did try and broadcast the labels with [998] it says it did but when I check the other keypad the labels are not there...any ideas?

Something isn't right. You should see both keypads when you use *8 [IC] 903 (remember, with the LCD keypad, you use the scroll arrows).

How do you have them wired? I know that the wiring diagram shows the keypads cascading off of each other, but you really need to wire back to the motherboard. With the small gauge wire used for this stuff, the voltage drop causes issues.

The wires were roughed in by the builder it looks like Cat5 cable but it is green it has 4 pairs of wires. I just used each pair (solid +stripe) for each of the keybus terminals. Each keypad goes back to the motherboard the keypads are working fine except for the supervision and the broadcasting of labels. I have one labelled 11 and one labelled 12, still no change. SHould I not have used both wires in each pair?

The odds are that it is cat 5. It comes in lots of colors.


In any case, I think you need to check and make sure that the terminal to terminal connections match up.
If you swapped the yellow and green connections on one of the keypad, it would work, but not correctly.

Just double checked them and all wires match up. Any other test I could try?

Ok here is the latest...I tried it again and now [903] shows keypad 1 and 2, not sure what was wrong before. Now I go to the 5010 pad and tried to broadcast it appears to do it I place # once its done and go check the 5500 keypad and the labels are not updated. I try to do it on the reverse from the 5500 to the 5010 and it says this function is not available. Any thoughts..and I appreciate you staying with me on this disaster...LOL

There is no such thing as a 5010 keypad. I think you have a LCD 5501 keypad, which is a _fixed_language_ keypad, and your descriptors from the LCD5500 will not show on it.

Ok, a "Power 832" is a PC-5010
The keypad models are PC55xx or for the new models, PK55xx.

If you can get your actual part numbers straight, we might be able to figure out what the glitch is.

The new one for sure is PK5500 my existing one is I am not 100% sure as it is not brand new guess PC5500, its definitley LCD.

Bingo! That's your problem. While both keypads are compatible with the _system_, their internal software isn't quite the same, and the data transfer between the older PC5500 and the newer PK 5500 won't work.

If you want zone descriptors on the keypads to match, you are going to have to input the info to both.

Makes sense, thanks for all your help with my issues, as I said in an earlier post you knowledge and dedication is greatly appreciated by many of us.

One last question, builder did not rough in any wires in my kitchen/family room I would like to either add a PIR or glass breaker to the system, any recommendations?

If you have attic or basement access to the location in question, run a 22-4 from the location to the panel home run. The only other option is to add a wireless receiver.

Sorry I poorly phrased my question, I do have access to the location, I am wondering what would be better a glass break sensor or another PIR?

If the room has large expanses of glass, but is otherwise hard to get into, go with the glassbreak. If there are ways to easily use this as an access point without breaking glass, go wth the motion. Just watch out for things like places where sudden sunlight hotspots can create false trips.

Great thanks for the info and thanks again with all the help in this thread.