Hardware and Fasteners - Attaching Plywood to Concrete
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Hauger
07-26-09, 10:46 AM
Hi.
I'm sure this is one of those groaner questions that gets asked a lot, so I searched first and found some info, but I have a newer twist on most scenarios I found.
I'm going to be finishing a basement bedroom, and I have two fastening problems to tackle. One is to frame a back wall for a closet and was planning on buying and using a .22 cal power hammer to drive concrete fastening nails to fasten the frame to the concrete pad.
The second, and "harder" fastening problem is the flooring. I'm thinking (and almost convinced) to use a product called Delta-FL to provide a subfloor for eventual carpeting. The thing with this option is it requires putting down plywood over top and fixing it to the floor through the Delta-FL. Now, I was thinking of using concrete screws from a big box store, but that sounds like a lot of work (predrilling each hole then screwing the fastener in) and the problem of stripping the hole kind of scares me a bit. Option # 2 would be to use the .22 Cal, but I don't know if that's a good idea and even if it's possible to countersink the fasteners used with this system.
So, stories, advice, opinions are greatly welcomed.
Thanks.
I'm sure this is one of those groaner questions that gets asked a lot, so I searched first and found some info, but I have a newer twist on most scenarios I found.
I'm going to be finishing a basement bedroom, and I have two fastening problems to tackle. One is to frame a back wall for a closet and was planning on buying and using a .22 cal power hammer to drive concrete fastening nails to fasten the frame to the concrete pad.
The second, and "harder" fastening problem is the flooring. I'm thinking (and almost convinced) to use a product called Delta-FL to provide a subfloor for eventual carpeting. The thing with this option is it requires putting down plywood over top and fixing it to the floor through the Delta-FL. Now, I was thinking of using concrete screws from a big box store, but that sounds like a lot of work (predrilling each hole then screwing the fastener in) and the problem of stripping the hole kind of scares me a bit. Option # 2 would be to use the .22 Cal, but I don't know if that's a good idea and even if it's possible to countersink the fasteners used with this system.
So, stories, advice, opinions are greatly welcomed.
Thanks.
goldstar
07-26-09, 12:52 PM
I looked at their FAQ's and see no reason or specific recommendation to affix the plywood to the floor. Properly cut, it will be contained within the room. You could attach one sheet to the next for more rigidity, but after carpeting, I don't see it "walking".
Hauger
07-26-09, 02:22 PM
fair enough....I took the anchoring from a website that directed me to the product, and being a novice assumed it as gospel. So your saying the plywood cut to fit the room shouldn't shift really at all? That makes sense. What about using tongue and groove plywood, would that give enough rigidity to the floor to keep it from shifting around? I was planning on using 1/4 inch plywood to keep the floor from eating too much into the head clearance of the room. There's about 7 1/2 feet now but I need to hang furring strips and drywall which should eat a couple inches, and I'm trying to minimize space loss. I guess 1/2 inch plywood though only eats another 1/4 inch, so it might be worth it.