Patching and Plastering - 8feet 4.5 inch walls?

Hello. I have a simple question.
My stud length in my addition is 8 feet long. So when you add the sole, and two top plates you get an 8' 4.5" wall.
My question is when I drywall is it acceptable to put one 8' sheet vertically and then a small 4" strip on the bottom?
I would end up with a 4" strip all around the bottom of the room. I am going to use blueboard and have it plastered.
Thank you for any addvice you can give!! :)

Are you already framed up? You should have used the 91 1/2" studs or cut the ones you had, that would have made your sheetrocking easier. I think you'll have to add blocking now at the bottom to support the seam where the 2 pieces meet.

Also..most sheetrock is done horizontally I think, though I don't know whether it matters if you are plastering.

It means more cutting but put one horizontal sheet at the top.
Put one at the bottom and fill in between. Your knees and back will thank you when you tape the joints.
Are you using a one coat or two coat plaster system?

If two coats there should be no problem.
If one coat give the joint a little extra attention to make sure you don't get a dip and a bulge right there together in the middle.

Hang it horizontally. If your base board it more than 4" then put it at the bottom. If not then I agree with tightcoat, put it in the middle.

coops28, Good call on the height of the baseboard.

Keep the wall straight at the bottom. A quick pass with the rod when you plaster it will keep the finish carpenter happy.

Thank you for the replies!
Yes I am all framed and insulated. Didn't give the stud length too much thought at the time. Now I know. :(

Well my baseboards in the rest of the house are 4", but I guess I could put bigger ones in the addition (master bedroom/bath).

As far as 1 or 2 coat plaster, I haven't talked to a plasterer so I don't know. I assume 2 is better. I would probably go with that. What is the norm?

I guess hanging it vertical, putting the 4" strip at the bottom and installing larger baseboard would be the best choice?
If not, then puting the strip in the middle is best? Although I would worry about that double seem right in the midde of the wall? Would a pasterer also do the taping?
Thank you again!

I don't know any tapers who like to bend over, tape and finish a joint that's 4" from the floor. Not many would like the 4" bas-tard joint in the middle either, when they are used to running their box around the room across a normal joint.

I'd suggest hanging the sheets horizontal, use 54" wide stretchboard for the first row of sheets against the ceiling, and standard 48" sheets for the rest down below.

X
Thats a new term to me..stretchboard? Is that because of people going to 9' ceilings?

Thanks again!
Ok, You can get 54" blueboard?
My lumber yard only sold 8' or 12'.
Is that common? 54"
That does seem to be the best if I can find it.
Cool Xsleeper thanks.

Or 5" base board.

............

bm he means 54" wide..not long. I do remember seeing 60" wide for 9' walls, as I mentioned (1 60" and 1 48" = 9')

Yer kinda stuck on the vertical install...thats hard on taping and mudding.

Horizontal is the way to go. A little more work initially, but easier to do working with the full sheets, than with tape and mud. No way to reach to top of a vertical seam w/o a step stool or ladder, then you have to get off to do the bottom (unless you have arms like M Phelps).

Another thing I'd like to ask....are you really plastering or just getting a skim/texture coat over the whole wall? No need to use other than regular board if its just a skim coat.

Thanks Gunguy45.
I don't really know alot about plastering or skim coat?
My house I thought was plastered but it could just be a skim.
What are my options? With a skim do you still need to mud sand mud sand or just tape and skim the whole wall?
Thanks
I guess I should get a couple bids and addvice from some local plasterers.

No..you still need to tape and mud...but sanding the first 1 or 2 passes of mud shouldn't really be required I don't think. Thin coat and wide knife normally does it...

Not an expert though.

Plaster is normally a much harder and thicker finish than regular mud/skim coat.

A plasterer may do mud, but a mudder may not necessarily be able to plaster. I've always looked at one as a skill and the other as more of an art, especially when matching old work.

How old is the rest of the house..thats a good indication. You can pull off a switch cover or escutcheon around a pipe shutoff valve and see what you have.

X
Thats a new term to me..stretchboard? Is that because of people going to 9' ceilings?

Yeah, "stretchboard" probably doesn't mean anything for someone that isn't up on drywall lingo. 54" wide sheets describe it better. But yes, two 54" pieces will cover a 9' wall without needing the stilts and 1' ripper across the top. It's now the standard for 9' walls... and really, it's perfect for any wall that's much over 8' 1".

If you local HD or Lowe's doesn't carry it, you might have to purchase from a bigger lumber yard or drywall supplier.

Woops, yes I meant 54" inches wide. Not long.
I guess I am going to look at baseboards and see how a 5" would look or go with a 54" blueboard at the top horizontally. It seems like I can get it in 12 foot lengths but not 8. I will be doing a lot alone so 8 would be better but 12 isn't a big deal.
My house was buit in 1998. The "plaster" looks to be only about 1/8 of an inch and the drywall is regular 1/2 inch.
How thick is a plaster job?
Thanks again!

How thick is a plaster job? About an inch. Traditionally applied over wood lath and wire.

Oh, I guess I was talking about a "vener" (spelling?) plaster.
I thought they just do blueboard, tape with light mud then plaster. I heard there was no sanding but it is not easy for a DIYer so it is better to sub out, which is what I would do.
I'm going to get some estimates, so I can get more info on my options.
Thanks for all the help!!:)

I'm still not sure you need anything other than regular drywall. Guess it may depend on whats actually going on the wall.

I'll just stand back and watch.

Yes, I am not an expert but this like explains what I was considering.

Blue Board and Veneer Plaster (http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Blueboard_and_Veneer_Plaster-Plaster_Walls-A1484.html)

Thanks again!

A two coat veneer plaster job over blue board is quite superior to drywall.
A one coat system is still superior to drywall.

The boards are installed.
The joints are taped with mesh or paper tape. Paper is preferred in commercial work over steel studs and in fast drying conditions and pretty much by everyone else, though mesh tape is easier because it can be applied then a coat of mud.
The mud can be a coat of veneer plaster base or a setting type of joint compound with Something like Durabond 90 being preferred over EasySand.
As soon as the mud and tape have set the plaster can be applied.
If it is a two coat job the base coat is aggregated and is applied about 1/8 I thick. Take care to keep the angles straight
As soon as the base coat has set the finish can be applied. It can be smooth and can be troweled as slick as glass.
Or the finish can be aggregated and finished with a fine float finish or it can be textured in either finish.

With plaster work quickly and neatly because the material sets quickly, cannot be retempered, cannot be sanded and is very hard.

Always keep your mixing equipment clean and never mix with dirty water or wash water. In fact it almost pays to keep a laborer simply to keep everything clean so you don't have to stop ans wash equipment and lose valuable working time.
Always lay down the material so you won't have any waves, ripples or ridges in the base coat or you will fight them in the finish.

Plaster is a very good, more durable, arguably a more versitile finish than conventional drywall but it is not amateur friendly.

Wow!
Thank you for the great reply.
That explains it well. Yes I will be paying someone to do that for me!
Thanks again.