Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - carrier funace not heating
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dhruv kumar
07-17-09, 03:40 PM
I have a carrier gas furnace model 58 mxa (weather maker 9200). when turning on the heating, the inducer motor comes on but the hot surface ignitor does not come on. The inducer motor remains on. I have a couple of questions. 1. Among the set of wires behind the access door an orange wire and a yellow wire are not connected to anything. Is that ok. 2. I thought that the HSI might be cracked, and tried to remove it. It is impossible to pull down. It looks like it is held up in place by two clips, but spreading the clips and trying to pull down wall the ignitor does not work. Is there a special tool I need to get.
Thanks.
Thanks.
ecman51`
07-17-09, 05:57 PM
Generally, there can be different color wires leading toward the ignitor from the control board. But then as it gets closer to the ignitor, there is a jack connector there where then the outgoing wires to the ignitor are both white, with white braided heat protective sheathing on it.
You can unhook those wires(or if that is difficult due to the location you can trace those wires back to the control board and unhook them there) - and ohms test the ignitor to determine it is good without going through the work of pulling the ignitor just to test. A good ignitor should be in the range of about 28 - 100 ohms. I had one that would still work at about 160 ohms, but generally I have heard that it should be under 100.
I can't help you too much with the how-to's of the removal. I am a look and figure it out person. Haven't been snafued yet. I'm sure I'd be able to figure out how to get it out. Hopefully you can stare at this and do the same, if need be. Good luck.
You can unhook those wires(or if that is difficult due to the location you can trace those wires back to the control board and unhook them there) - and ohms test the ignitor to determine it is good without going through the work of pulling the ignitor just to test. A good ignitor should be in the range of about 28 - 100 ohms. I had one that would still work at about 160 ohms, but generally I have heard that it should be under 100.
I can't help you too much with the how-to's of the removal. I am a look and figure it out person. Haven't been snafued yet. I'm sure I'd be able to figure out how to get it out. Hopefully you can stare at this and do the same, if need be. Good luck.
daddyjohn
07-17-09, 10:21 PM
Do the orange and yellow wires come out of the molex plug at the board? They are probably connections for pressure switches if you were using propane. If the furnace worked ok before, I wouldn't worry about them. Can you test live voltage? Is the board sending 120 volts to the ignitor? Are you seeing any flashing numbers on the board? There is a component test you can do.
http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/58m-1sm.pdf
http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/58m-1sm.pdf