Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Flue Piping - Chimney Repair
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bdek
07-17-09, 12:40 PM
Hello,
I live in a 1929 two family house. Over the years the two furnaces have been changed three times starting with the original coal fired furnaces. We now have two gas fired furnaces (new 2003). The metal flue piping has gone from 8" diameter (approx.) to the current 4" diameter for each furnace. The chimney is brick with a full height ceramic flue liner.
Last week I noticed that the furnace cement (around both flue pipes entering the chimney) was really curling up badley and needed to be replaced. Since it's summer time and the furnaces are off I felt that this would be a good time to do the repair.
When I removed the old furnace cement I discovered that the bricks that were used by the contractor to reduce the size of the original openings in the chimney for the new (4") metal flue piping were only held together minimally with furnace cement - - something that an owner could not see from the outside. I re-mortared (with a standard mortar) the loose bricks tight to the flue piping.
My question is should I have used a high teperature mortar to repair the chimney brick or will it be ok considering that the repair was only for the exterior chimney brick and not the flue liner? Would coating the flue piping repair with furnace cement accomplish anything at this point? Or should I wait until a gap develops between the new mortar repair and the metal flue piping and then apply furnace cement to the gap?
Comments and suggestions would be appreciated,
Thanks Bob
I live in a 1929 two family house. Over the years the two furnaces have been changed three times starting with the original coal fired furnaces. We now have two gas fired furnaces (new 2003). The metal flue piping has gone from 8" diameter (approx.) to the current 4" diameter for each furnace. The chimney is brick with a full height ceramic flue liner.
Last week I noticed that the furnace cement (around both flue pipes entering the chimney) was really curling up badley and needed to be replaced. Since it's summer time and the furnaces are off I felt that this would be a good time to do the repair.
When I removed the old furnace cement I discovered that the bricks that were used by the contractor to reduce the size of the original openings in the chimney for the new (4") metal flue piping were only held together minimally with furnace cement - - something that an owner could not see from the outside. I re-mortared (with a standard mortar) the loose bricks tight to the flue piping.
My question is should I have used a high teperature mortar to repair the chimney brick or will it be ok considering that the repair was only for the exterior chimney brick and not the flue liner? Would coating the flue piping repair with furnace cement accomplish anything at this point? Or should I wait until a gap develops between the new mortar repair and the metal flue piping and then apply furnace cement to the gap?
Comments and suggestions would be appreciated,
Thanks Bob
bdek
07-21-09, 07:55 AM
Looks like I may be the only one doing flue piping and chimney repair - - no responses to posting??
Bob
Bob
pfd27
07-21-09, 03:33 PM
Looks like I may be the only one doing flue piping and chimney repair - - no responses to posting??
Bob
I'd try the masonry section. Maybe someone there will know
Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - DoItYourself.com Community Forums (http://forum.doityourself.com/bricks-masonry-asphalt-concrete-3/)
Bob
I'd try the masonry section. Maybe someone there will know
Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - DoItYourself.com Community Forums (http://forum.doityourself.com/bricks-masonry-asphalt-concrete-3/)
asm660
08-31-09, 10:53 AM
sounds good so far years ago we used asbestos but not any more . We now use a fiber cement but itf it gets wet it falls apart it also cracks furance cement will curl up if put on to thin what I like to do is cement with motor cement a 18" of pipe in base or less 6" round that way you can clean the base (& you doint have to remove the pipe from the chimney) than reduce it down to 4 " for the boiler now if your smoke pipe has holes replace it there will be one hole in it for tests some people plug it with a butt I doint smoke I will use furance cement also it could be left open ???!!!!
ASM660
ASM660