Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - icemaker water pressure
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Herb227
07-13-09, 12:59 PM
I've got an icemaker (standard in freezer modular type model), brand new. Water flows from the water line to the water inlet valve but does not flow from the inlet valve to the icemaker. Could the problem be the water pressure? The water line is connected using a saddle valve; someone told me that those valves don't provide enough pressure...is this true? If so, what are my alternatives for replacing the connection?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
Gunguy45
07-13-09, 01:05 PM
Not water pressure. Those valves may not be the best choice, but they normally work fine, til they start to leak.
You're saying that water is getting to the back of the fridge at the valve, but it is not flowing when the solenoid valve is activated? Is the solenoid valve working? Is this a new icemaker?
Common problems are, bad solenoid valve, frozen water line from valve to icemaker, or bad icemaker, never calling for water valve to open.
You're saying that water is getting to the back of the fridge at the valve, but it is not flowing when the solenoid valve is activated? Is the solenoid valve working? Is this a new icemaker?
Common problems are, bad solenoid valve, frozen water line from valve to icemaker, or bad icemaker, never calling for water valve to open.
Herb227
07-13-09, 01:16 PM
Yes, water is getting to the back of the fridge at the valve.
This is a brand new icemaker and a brand new fridge, in fact, the old icemaker had the exact same problem.
With the fridge and the icemaker new, I would assume that the solenoid valve would be working...but is there a way that I can be sure?
This is a brand new icemaker and a brand new fridge, in fact, the old icemaker had the exact same problem.
With the fridge and the icemaker new, I would assume that the solenoid valve would be working...but is there a way that I can be sure?
Gunguy45
07-13-09, 01:27 PM
Normally, even with no water flow or the water turned off, you can hear the valve actuate "click" when it is on.
IF you have a dual valve for ice maker and door water and IF they are identical, you could possibly switch the electrical connector. Or the water connection from the valves (but I wouldn't mess with that on a new unit).
Or remove the line from the solenoid valve and make sure the icemaker arm is down (or ON..some are marked that way I think), you'd need to be prepared for a blast of water from the valve of course.
No appliance expert..but its a pretty simple system overall, water line to valve, valve to ice maker. Water level controlled by a float/sensor and timer in the ice maker.
Might want to post the brand and model for them when they check in.
The appliance Pro's are working right now it appears.
IF you have a dual valve for ice maker and door water and IF they are identical, you could possibly switch the electrical connector. Or the water connection from the valves (but I wouldn't mess with that on a new unit).
Or remove the line from the solenoid valve and make sure the icemaker arm is down (or ON..some are marked that way I think), you'd need to be prepared for a blast of water from the valve of course.
No appliance expert..but its a pretty simple system overall, water line to valve, valve to ice maker. Water level controlled by a float/sensor and timer in the ice maker.
Might want to post the brand and model for them when they check in.
The appliance Pro's are working right now it appears.