Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Bathroom sink: new drain flange doesn't fit right
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Bathroom sink: new drain flange doesn't fit right
jishaq
06-24-09, 07:37 PM
My wife bought a Price Pfister faucet to replace our old Moen faucet in our master bath. I've replaced a good number of faucets in our house, but I've never quite had this much trouble.
The main problem I am experiencing is the fit of the drain flange. I apply plumber's putty to the bottom of the drain flange, squish it into place, and then thread the drain/pop-up assembly onto the drain flange from underneath the sink, and tighten the lock nut to pull everything into place. Simple enough.
When I put water into the sink, it mostly drains out as it should, except there is about a teaspoon of water that collects around the *outside* perimeter of the drain flange -- it does not fall into the drain like it should! I was stupefied to see this. It seems like the drain flange is simply not compatible with the shape of the sink. I believe the sink was a Moen sink, and is about 20 years old. Has anybody ever experienced this?
I can't think of any way to make it work. I tried removing the plumber's putty so that the teaspoon of collected water would seep down the gap between the drain flange and the sink, and into the same area that water from the overflow drain goes. This worked, actually -- but then I realized if I wanted to stop up the drain to fill the sink up with water, it would seep right out. :wall:
I'm pretty much ready to send the faucet back, and maybe I'll buy a Moen in hopes that its drain flange better fits the contour of the sink better.
Just curious if anyone has experienced this. It's a first for me.
-Jeff
PS: This $125 faucet comes with a cheap plastic ball rod strap. It feels like it's made out of some kind of plastic rubber, like a frisbee. When I put the ball rod through and tightened the bolt to pin the ball rod in place, the threads on the cheap plastic ball rod strap stripped out immediately (as I expected), so I had to go out and buy a real metal one for $6. I'm not buying another Price Pfister faucet, that's for sure.
The main problem I am experiencing is the fit of the drain flange. I apply plumber's putty to the bottom of the drain flange, squish it into place, and then thread the drain/pop-up assembly onto the drain flange from underneath the sink, and tighten the lock nut to pull everything into place. Simple enough.
When I put water into the sink, it mostly drains out as it should, except there is about a teaspoon of water that collects around the *outside* perimeter of the drain flange -- it does not fall into the drain like it should! I was stupefied to see this. It seems like the drain flange is simply not compatible with the shape of the sink. I believe the sink was a Moen sink, and is about 20 years old. Has anybody ever experienced this?
I can't think of any way to make it work. I tried removing the plumber's putty so that the teaspoon of collected water would seep down the gap between the drain flange and the sink, and into the same area that water from the overflow drain goes. This worked, actually -- but then I realized if I wanted to stop up the drain to fill the sink up with water, it would seep right out. :wall:
I'm pretty much ready to send the faucet back, and maybe I'll buy a Moen in hopes that its drain flange better fits the contour of the sink better.
Just curious if anyone has experienced this. It's a first for me.
-Jeff
PS: This $125 faucet comes with a cheap plastic ball rod strap. It feels like it's made out of some kind of plastic rubber, like a frisbee. When I put the ball rod through and tightened the bolt to pin the ball rod in place, the threads on the cheap plastic ball rod strap stripped out immediately (as I expected), so I had to go out and buy a real metal one for $6. I'm not buying another Price Pfister faucet, that's for sure.
ray2047
06-24-09, 07:55 PM
The plumbers putty does not seal the rubber gasket on the bottom outside of the sink does. If that is correct then it is probably the threads the retaining nut screws on. Some really cheap plastic ones say to wrap the threads with several layers of Teflon tape. You shouldn't need to in a perfect world with well made fitting but sometimes in the real world you need to. even if not mentioned in the instructions.
The rounded side of the rubber gasket should be up. There should be a washer then the nut. In the old days the washer was brass now it is often cardboard.
The rounded side of the rubber gasket should be up. There should be a washer then the nut. In the old days the washer was brass now it is often cardboard.
jishaq
07-08-09, 10:24 AM
The plumbers putty does not seal the rubber gasket on the bottom outside of the sink does. If that is correct then it is probably the threads the retaining nut screws on. Some really cheap plastic ones say to wrap the threads with several layers of Teflon tape. You shouldn't need to in a perfect world with well made fitting but sometimes in the real world you need to. even if not mentioned in the instructions.
The rounded side of the rubber gasket should be up. There should be a washer then the nut. In the old days the washer was brass now it is often cardboard.
Thanks!
The problem was that the drain flange didn't seat properly due to the shape of the sink. I puttied the hell out of the bottom of it, and the sink basin held water just fine, so it didn't leak. But when I drained out all of the water, there was a ring of about 1 teaspoon of water that collected around the drain flange that wouldn't go down the drain -- it just sat there and evaporated, a big mildew problem in the making.
I ended up sending the crappy 95% plastic Moen faucet back, and got a Grohe instead. I was pleased that the Grohe drain assembly didn't use any plastic whatsoever, and its drain flange happened to fit the shape of my sink a little better, so it worked out in the end.
Well, I *think* it will work out. It's still a work in progress. I ended up needing to replace the entire P-trap assembly, but of course it wasn't just a matter of replacing it because the drain stubout was situated too close to where the sink tailpiece comes down to facilitate the curvature of the normal-shaped trap... even with some creative angles ... so I had to get one of those cheap accordion flexi-trap thingies so I could offset it to make it work. Oh, and once that was all done the shut-off value started to leak and turns out they are totally corroded so I have to replace both of them! Argh.
-Jeff
The rounded side of the rubber gasket should be up. There should be a washer then the nut. In the old days the washer was brass now it is often cardboard.
Thanks!
The problem was that the drain flange didn't seat properly due to the shape of the sink. I puttied the hell out of the bottom of it, and the sink basin held water just fine, so it didn't leak. But when I drained out all of the water, there was a ring of about 1 teaspoon of water that collected around the drain flange that wouldn't go down the drain -- it just sat there and evaporated, a big mildew problem in the making.
I ended up sending the crappy 95% plastic Moen faucet back, and got a Grohe instead. I was pleased that the Grohe drain assembly didn't use any plastic whatsoever, and its drain flange happened to fit the shape of my sink a little better, so it worked out in the end.
Well, I *think* it will work out. It's still a work in progress. I ended up needing to replace the entire P-trap assembly, but of course it wasn't just a matter of replacing it because the drain stubout was situated too close to where the sink tailpiece comes down to facilitate the curvature of the normal-shaped trap... even with some creative angles ... so I had to get one of those cheap accordion flexi-trap thingies so I could offset it to make it work. Oh, and once that was all done the shut-off value started to leak and turns out they are totally corroded so I have to replace both of them! Argh.
-Jeff
ray2047
07-08-09, 11:07 AM
If you look closely at the construction of a lavatory sink with an overflow you will see there is a void between the bottom of the inside of the sink and the actual outside bottom of the sink. It is in this part that the overflow drains. If you look at the drain you will notice that there are slots that drain this void. Even if the flange leaks it just leaks into what is supposed to be a sealed void. Therefore it is the gasket on the outside bottom that seals the void that is critical.
The plastic flange because it has to be thicker then a metal flange to have adequate structural strength may not, as you found, fit. However it is the bottom rubber seal that is critical. Your sink may still leak if you get water in the overflow.
The plastic flange because it has to be thicker then a metal flange to have adequate structural strength may not, as you found, fit. However it is the bottom rubber seal that is critical. Your sink may still leak if you get water in the overflow.
jishaq
07-08-09, 11:25 AM
If you look closely at the construction of a lavatory sink with an overflow you will see there is a void between the bottom of the inside of the sink and the actual outside bottom of the sink. It is in this part that the overflow drains. If you look at the drain you will notice that there are slots that drain this void. Even if the flange leaks it just leaks into what is supposed to be a sealed void. Therefore it is the gasket on the outside bottom that seals the void that is critical.
The plastic flange because it has to be thicker then a metal flange to have adequate structural strength may not, as you found, fit. However it is the bottom rubber seal that is critical. Your sink may still leak if you get water in the overflow.
It makes sense that a metal flange would have a lower profile, that is a very good point -- and a good reason to avoid plastic when possible!
On the new Grohe faucet, the metal drain seats just fine, and I've confirmed the rubber washer is in place to allow drainage of the overflow void without leaks as well. I think it's all set, aside from the new shutoff valves.
Thanks again,
-Jeff
The plastic flange because it has to be thicker then a metal flange to have adequate structural strength may not, as you found, fit. However it is the bottom rubber seal that is critical. Your sink may still leak if you get water in the overflow.
It makes sense that a metal flange would have a lower profile, that is a very good point -- and a good reason to avoid plastic when possible!
On the new Grohe faucet, the metal drain seats just fine, and I've confirmed the rubber washer is in place to allow drainage of the overflow void without leaks as well. I think it's all set, aside from the new shutoff valves.
Thanks again,
-Jeff