Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Installing recessed lighting in living room

I have been thinking doing the same thing to add recess lights to my living room.

My switch is near the front door and I think that's the best way to pull the wires from instead of plug point. I never done interior wiring, but I think I can handle it.

If the wires are passed through the attic, I think that would be easier and I can pull it. I have no basement but crawlspace and I do not prefer to go underneath ;-(

Is there any better Idea to pull the wires from switch without breaking the wall?

My other concern is, I am planning to add 4-6 recess lights. Should I worry about any change in amps or usage due to these additional fixtures ?

thanks in advance.

Yes, you would need enough reserve capacity in the circuit to allow the additional loads to be added. If the capacity is insuffiecent the breaker will trip.

The wiring you want to use would need to be grounded in ordr to extend your circuit.

Fishing wires into a finished wall can be done. Sometimes it just takes a while. Insulation on exterior walls add to the difficulty.

One of the first things to do is to check to see if a switch loop is in use at the switch or if all the proper wires are available.

You may want to pickup "Wiring Simplified" for some basic ideas on wiring.

First thing to do is to see what is all on that circuit. Do this by shutting it off at the panel. Then go around and check to see what is dead.

Next are a few questions for you:

What is the construction of your walls? Are they drywall (Sheetrock), lath and plaster or plaster over rock?

How is your home wired now? Is it using Romex (NM or NM-B)? AC cable? Greenfield (Flexible steel conduit)?

As PCboss posted, tell us all the wires you have in the switch box you wish to use to control the lights with.

Usually(not always) the best way to pull new wire to a switch is to tie it on to the old wire and pull it up with it. As far as the amperage concern goes it simply depends on the size of wire that is currently installed and how much load if any is on it besides the current light fixtures. If the wire is #12 it is rated for 20A if the wire is #14 it is only rated for 15A but remember since this is a lighting circuit it has the tendency to be what the code calls a continuos load (meaning the load may be on for three hour or more at a time) when this is a factor you are only allowed to use 80% of the circuits capacity which means if it is #12 wire you are only allowed to use 16A of the wire capacity. 12A "I think" if it is #14 wire. What you need to do is add the wattage of all the bulbs in the circuit no matter if they are all on at the same time or not take the total of all the wattages combined and divide that sum by 120 this will give you the amperage the circuit will draw.
Heres an example:
lets say you have 10 fixtures total and all of them have a 60 watt bulb. Multiply 60 times 10 and that equals 600 take that sum and divide it by 120 which equals 5. the answer is five which means 5A which can easily be accomadated by the circuit as long as the lights are the only thing on that particular circuit. This same circuit could easily handle 30-60 watt light bulbs because the amps drawn would then only be 15A one amp less than the total allowed under the continuous load code.
heres the formula total watts divided by volts(120) equals amps

Usually(not always) the best way to pull new wire to a switch is to tie it on to the old wire and pull it up with it. As far as the amperage concern goes it simply depends on the size of wire that is currently installed and how much load if any is on it besides the current light fixtures. If the wire is #12 it is rated for 20A if the wire is #14 it is only rated for 15A but remember since this is a lighting circuit it has the tendency to be what the code calls a continuos load (meaning the load may be on for three hour or more at a time) when this is a factor you are only allowed to use 80% of the circuits capacity which means if it is #12 wire you are only allowed to use 16A of the wire capacity. 12A "I think" if it is #14 wire. What you need to do is add the wattage of all the bulbs in the circuit no matter if they are all on at the same time or not take the total of all the wattages combined and divide that sum by 120 this will give you the amperage the circuit will draw.
Heres an example:
lets say you have 10 fixtures total and all of them have a 60 watt bulb. Multiply 60 times 10 and that equals 600 take that sum and divide it by 120 which equals 5. the answer is five which means 5A which can easily be accomadated by the circuit as long as the lights are the only thing on that particular circuit. This same circuit could easily handle 30-60 watt light bulbs because the amps drawn would then only be 15A one amp less than the total allowed under the continuous load code.
heres the formula total watts divided by volts(120) equals amps

You also need to be sure that you buy the proper recessed fixtures. Some fixture require a minimum clearance. Be sure that the fixtures you plan on purchasing can be installed in your attic according to the factory specs. DO NOT COVER LIGHT WITH INSULATION unless IC rated. Non-IC rated fixtures need 3" of clearence SO THEY WILL NOT OVERHEAT AND POSE A FIRE HAZARD!

Usually(not always) the best way to pull new wire to a switch is to tie it on to the old wire and pull it up with it.

Unless the wire was originally fished into the switchbox this will not work. The wires should be stapled within the wall cavity.

Jorneyman Ken.,

As you mention tie the new cable to the old cable and pull it up or down most case it useally don't work very well at all and somecase the cable strap can cut the new cable as well so that part I don't useally do that at all.

Merci,Marc

Yeah guys, thats why I said usually(not always) I would say that 95% of all the rewires I do have NO wire strapped in the walls. But you guys are right, it is next to impossible to fish. When this is the case though two fish tapes hooked together from either end is a pretty good back up plan.

Thank you guys for all your inputs. I will look into the 'action items' you have mentioned.

One more question is how to determine the number of lights needed for a given room or space. Is there any metric involved to calculate the intensity for a given square feet ? I am assuming my living room is around 11x19feet opens to dinning area, but I have light for dinning area.

Again, thanks a lot.