Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Refinishing hardwood floors
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MaryBac
06-03-09, 06:06 AM
We stained our hardwood floor after sanding it and then noticed different areas where the sanding must not have taken the finish off completely. We resanded those areas by hand and then stained them. Later we gave the floor a second coat of stain and now all the spots that were resanded have come up a milky colour on top compared to the rest. Any suggestions as to what to do as we want to put the finish on.
Thanks so much!
Mary
Thanks so much!
Mary
selahangel
06-11-09, 09:48 PM
The areas you hand sanded would have two problems:
1) The pressure you used (although I am sure you were careful) would not be the same as the machine sander - the floor might not be as even as you think it is. When you stain the floor, dips and valley's show up as light and dark spots.
2) Hand sanding also would not produce as smooth a surface as the machine sander. Again it has to do with pressure and the sandpaper used in the hand sander as opposed to the machine. And even if you used the same paper, you would have a differant motion, and speed; therefore the result would be entirely differant. The result would be small splinters of wood standing up in "rougher" areas. To the hand they may seem smooth, but to stain it is a barrier where it can't penetrate as well.
I hate to say this, but is sounds like you may have to start over with the machine sander, only this time start with a pad with a fine grit say around 200 or even a 240 or higher. I would go with a closed grit paper as well, that will make the finish smoother. Just watch that you don't make "dips" in the floor - you have to make sure you are sanding everything very even. Going over the whole surface one time with the finer grit might correct the problem.
Otherwise without being there and seeing it, I am at a loss. Hopefully someone else will be able to add to this.
Angel
1) The pressure you used (although I am sure you were careful) would not be the same as the machine sander - the floor might not be as even as you think it is. When you stain the floor, dips and valley's show up as light and dark spots.
2) Hand sanding also would not produce as smooth a surface as the machine sander. Again it has to do with pressure and the sandpaper used in the hand sander as opposed to the machine. And even if you used the same paper, you would have a differant motion, and speed; therefore the result would be entirely differant. The result would be small splinters of wood standing up in "rougher" areas. To the hand they may seem smooth, but to stain it is a barrier where it can't penetrate as well.
I hate to say this, but is sounds like you may have to start over with the machine sander, only this time start with a pad with a fine grit say around 200 or even a 240 or higher. I would go with a closed grit paper as well, that will make the finish smoother. Just watch that you don't make "dips" in the floor - you have to make sure you are sanding everything very even. Going over the whole surface one time with the finer grit might correct the problem.
Otherwise without being there and seeing it, I am at a loss. Hopefully someone else will be able to add to this.
Angel
Kevin Stevens
06-12-09, 08:36 AM
Angel made made good points, but you did not say how you sanded the main floor...Drum Sander, large Belt, Oscillating, orbital?
Nor did you mention how you "hand sanded" did you use a small Random orbit, small hand held belt sander or...truely "by hand"
most tool rental places that rent large floor sanders also have floor Edgers, this tool is like an orbital sander on steroids, they cost about $1000 weigh about 30 pounds and use a 7" sanding disc...this is still considered a hand sander. the basic woodworking 5" orbital only weighs about 2 pounds. both of these tools will leave completely different sanding "profiles". I have touched up small rooms with the heavy duty "edger" but it is time consuming.
The best way to fix your problem might be to use a Orbital floor maching set up with a sanding screen. This is the tool that I use the most when refinishing floors. I start with a very rough grit and work up to fine (180 or so). the trick to using this this is not skip grits as the orbital can leave circular scratches if you are not carefull. The benefit is that it levels the floor and you can cover larger areas pretty easy. Since you have already sanded the floor...you can skim the entie area with the orbita using a fine screen 180 to 220 grit, I use the 220 before the final finish coat to make the floor glass smooth. your progress can be gauged by how the stain is removed...stain will sand away 10 time easier than the "finish coat"...with care you can get pretty close to the wall with an orbital so you edge work will be minimal.
I like to use oil based finishes...I think then add a bit of warmth to the floor...water based finish IMO seem aneamic and milky.
Nor did you mention how you "hand sanded" did you use a small Random orbit, small hand held belt sander or...truely "by hand"
most tool rental places that rent large floor sanders also have floor Edgers, this tool is like an orbital sander on steroids, they cost about $1000 weigh about 30 pounds and use a 7" sanding disc...this is still considered a hand sander. the basic woodworking 5" orbital only weighs about 2 pounds. both of these tools will leave completely different sanding "profiles". I have touched up small rooms with the heavy duty "edger" but it is time consuming.
The best way to fix your problem might be to use a Orbital floor maching set up with a sanding screen. This is the tool that I use the most when refinishing floors. I start with a very rough grit and work up to fine (180 or so). the trick to using this this is not skip grits as the orbital can leave circular scratches if you are not carefull. The benefit is that it levels the floor and you can cover larger areas pretty easy. Since you have already sanded the floor...you can skim the entie area with the orbita using a fine screen 180 to 220 grit, I use the 220 before the final finish coat to make the floor glass smooth. your progress can be gauged by how the stain is removed...stain will sand away 10 time easier than the "finish coat"...with care you can get pretty close to the wall with an orbital so you edge work will be minimal.
I like to use oil based finishes...I think then add a bit of warmth to the floor...water based finish IMO seem aneamic and milky.