Walls and Ceilings - Suspended Ceiling Questions
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salguod
06-02-09, 04:41 PM
I have two suspended ceiling questions:
1 - I have one area of my basement that is only 5' x 10' 8". The joists go across the 5' dimension. I know that you're not supposed to have the main T's (I'm using USG metal grid) more than 2' from the wall, but on a 5' width that puts them 6" from each wall. Do you think I can get away with just one? I am going to have 2 can lights attached to the grid.
2 - I'm using the Radar 2' sq. panels with the SLT edge so they hang down a little. When trimming the panels, however, you have to re-creared that stepped edge. I've been using a utility knife, which is what the instructions recommend. It's a mess, hard to do accurately and real time consuming.
I've got 3 ceiling areas and a LOT of panels to trim, is there an easier way to do it?
Thanks
1 - I have one area of my basement that is only 5' x 10' 8". The joists go across the 5' dimension. I know that you're not supposed to have the main T's (I'm using USG metal grid) more than 2' from the wall, but on a 5' width that puts them 6" from each wall. Do you think I can get away with just one? I am going to have 2 can lights attached to the grid.
2 - I'm using the Radar 2' sq. panels with the SLT edge so they hang down a little. When trimming the panels, however, you have to re-creared that stepped edge. I've been using a utility knife, which is what the instructions recommend. It's a mess, hard to do accurately and real time consuming.
I've got 3 ceiling areas and a LOT of panels to trim, is there an easier way to do it?
Thanks
chandler
06-02-09, 05:54 PM
1) It will look symmetrical, although a pita to put up the extra main tee. Offsetting it will make it look "weighty" to one side.
2) Change you blades regularly. A dull blade will tear it, where a sharp one will make neat cuts.
2) Change you blades regularly. A dull blade will tear it, where a sharp one will make neat cuts.
salguod
06-02-09, 06:02 PM
I'm not sure what you mean by #1. In 5', I think I'm going to have 3 T's, unless I flush a full tile to one edge. Yes, that will look odd, but there's two ways of doing it symetrically.
I can put a main T in the center with the a chain of 2' cross T's on either side, or I can have 2 main T's with a single chain of 2' T's down the middle.
I'm leaning toward the two main T's, since I'm hanging lights it'll be good to have the extra support.
I can put a main T in the center with the a chain of 2' cross T's on either side, or I can have 2 main T's with a single chain of 2' T's down the middle.
I'm leaning toward the two main T's, since I'm hanging lights it'll be good to have the extra support.
chandler
06-02-09, 07:22 PM
Are you using 2x2 tiles? If so, you will have to install two runs down the middle of the room and two 6" tiles on either side to make it look symmetrical. 3 tees is correct. One in the middle, one each 2' on either side of the middle one.
XSleeper
06-03-09, 05:33 PM
IMO, it would look better to center a row of 2x2 tiles down the center of the room, with T's on each side. Then you'd have an 18" piece on each side... 3 tiles across rather than parts of 4. You'd then use a lot of 24" cross tee's. And like you said, you'd have room for lights down the center of the room as needed.
chandler
06-03-09, 07:37 PM
Gosh, how could my math been that off????? XSleeper has it down.
XSleeper
06-03-09, 08:01 PM
Chandler, I imagined you were thinking of a T right down the middle with a full row on each side (3 t's) which would result in a 6" row on each side.
Your math is right, but I just thought 3 rows of tile would take less material, and would look better. Plus allow lighting down the center.
Your math is right, but I just thought 3 rows of tile would take less material, and would look better. Plus allow lighting down the center.
salguod
06-03-09, 08:54 PM
Your math is right, but I just thought 3 rows of tile would take less material, and would look better. Plus allow lighting down the center.
Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. My situation is that this is part of a larger room (basement) with a low section through the middle to clear duct work. This is a high section at the back of the room. There's also some pipes in the rafters that I need to clear with the lights and I don't want the lights centered in this section anyway to balance the lights in the low section.
I'm going with the main T's at the 6" mark from each 10' 8" wall with 4' cross T's between and another 2', down the middle, between that. That'll let me put my lights off center. Besides, by using 2 full tiles and splitting the two 6" pieces out of the third, the material usage should be the same.
Thanks.
Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. My situation is that this is part of a larger room (basement) with a low section through the middle to clear duct work. This is a high section at the back of the room. There's also some pipes in the rafters that I need to clear with the lights and I don't want the lights centered in this section anyway to balance the lights in the low section.
I'm going with the main T's at the 6" mark from each 10' 8" wall with 4' cross T's between and another 2', down the middle, between that. That'll let me put my lights off center. Besides, by using 2 full tiles and splitting the two 6" pieces out of the third, the material usage should be the same.
Thanks.