Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Go-Carts, ATV's and Golf Carts - rusty bicycle cluster

I was wondering if it's possible to fix up this freewheel cluster, which is badly rusted frozen. If I had the correct freewheel cluster puller/extractor tool and used some strong penetrating fluid do you think I could get it off and get it freed up so it turns again?

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb153/sgull1/cluster1.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb153/sgull1/cluster2.jpg

Doubtful. In either case you will need to pull the cluster. Once off, you can lube the dickens out of it just to see if it will free up. It will sound terrible, but if the springs that operate the pawls are shot, you're dead. Was the chain just as bad?

Bud

Doubtful. In either case you will need to pull the cluster. Once off, you can lube the dickens out of it just to see if it will free up. It will sound terrible, but if the springs that operate the pawls are shot, you're dead. Was the chain just as bad?

The chain was rusted and stiff too. I soaked it in penetrating oil and then worked it back and forth until all the links move again and it is flexible as it should be.

It looks as if I probably would need the Park four-prong FR-3 freewheel puller tool as shown here to try to remove the cluster: Lickbike.com | Park FR-3 Four Prong Freewheel Tool (http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.asp?PART_NUM_SUB='2381-00)'

I'm thinking I would clamp the tool on a bench-mounted vice, spray a generous amount of penetrating fluid on the hub there from the area where the cluster unscrews, then fit the notches of the cluster onto the prongs, then turn the wheel and hope it starts to unscrew.

If I do get it off, how can I tell if the springs that operate the pawls are shot, as you mentioned?

Any further advice/comment appreciated. Thanks

One of the difficulties with the prong style tools is keeping them engaged while you twist it off. If you can re-install the quick release skewer and tighten it in place to initially hold the tool in place it may keep you from chewing the ears off the freewheel. But just break it loose and then remove the skewer and then spin it off. The wheel will give you the leverage to get it off.

Yes, clamp the tool in a very strong vise and then spin the wheel counter clockwise, standard threads.

Once off, you will see where to lubricate the back. If you try to overhaul, look for a breakdown on the internet. There is a cover ring on the small front side that has to thread off to expose the outer race, then get ready (over a tub) when you lift off the sprocket body the bearings on the inner race will go everywhere. Best if you can find instructions on overhaul, but if not I will try.

Bud

Thanks Bud. I'll post back if I'm lucky enough to get the thing off.