Patching and Plastering - What mud with what tape?

I've been told that you should only use mesh tape with a powder setting compound (such as Durabond or Easysand) and you should only use paper tape with a premixed mud (such as Sheetrock brand joint compound green or blue top).

Is this true?

Second question, I have a couple repairs I need to make in my house. I have cracks above doorways that I need to dig out and repair as well as one big crack that runs horizontally along a wall. I figured I would use Sheetrock brand Easysand since I've been told that it dries much harder than typical joint compound. Any advice?

I have not heard that the new no-sand is harder. I do agree with this web site and his use and reasons for paper tape.

Click on the topics at left: FAQ About Old Plaster (http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/old-plaster-questions.html)

Paper is stronger against movement and works better for me on plaster cracks. Notice his use of bonding agent. Be safe, G

I've used durabond with paper tape with no issues. It's best not to use the "sticky" tape but if you do, you must use a setting compound to avoid problems. Use the green lid [all purpose] mud for taping. It adheres better than the light weight compounds.

Do you have drywall? or are your walls plaster?

I have plaster walls, but it's not wood lath. I have rock lath (16" X 4' pieces of drywall), then a thick layer of gray plaster (almost cement with small rocks in it, very hard and dulls saw blades in a flash), then a thin layer of softer white plaster.

I'd scratch out the cracks and then fill with a setting compound like durabond. I don't repair a lot of plaster but I'll usually only use tape on a plaster crack that I'm worried about. If the movement that caused the crack is gone, it's usually safe to just fill with a setting compound.... of course plaster might be better but for those of us who aren't fluent in plaster.......:D

My building was built in 1962.

I bought this condo 2 years ago, when I moved in the walls were crack free.

Apparently the sellers had a painting contractor come in here to fix up the walls and paint. The problem is that all of the cracks above the doorways that they fixed are now cracked again. I could see that they didn't do much to fix them properly, they just slapped some spackle over the crack, you could see how high they built it up over the crack, and that mound of spackle is what is now cracked. I doubt they V-notched the crack first.

My concern is to stop it from cracking again. Above me is an attic framed with 2X8's so it's pretty solid. None of these doorways I mentioned have doors so the cracks aren't from slamming.


GBR in WA, I'm reading that site you linked, thanks! So if the Easysand (the powder) isn't harder, the only benefit is the time it takes to dry? Other than that, it's the same as the premix joint compound?

I have never used it, probably never will. Any product that is easier to sand, can't be harder than a hard product that is harder to sand. They are trying to have the best of both worlds.

As that site brought out, quick-set compound and paper tape after a bonding agent. I top coat with joint compound. As he said, it's all in the adhesive percentage of the different muds, as to when and how they are used.

If over a door, the board was installed wrong, never break joint over either side of a door. Try some deck screws every 2" in the crack to help the bond and stop the crack, before filling, as brought out. Be safe, G

GBR, This is plaster (no joints) and there isn't a door in the doorway to be slammed or put stress on the framing.

Stopping the crack is exactly what I need to do, as you stated.

I'm just curious about driving deck screws every 2" along the crack. The crack isn't on a stud nor is it straight, so the screws would just be going thru the plaster into the void.

Sorry about that, the screws would be with some backing already existing. Notice the article said open the crack with a hooked can opener, use of bonder, paper tape, fast-dry compound, regular mud, prime and paint. Be safe, G