Walls and Ceilings - Hole saw for plaster?
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VoltageHz
05-22-09, 04:59 PM
I like using a hole saw to cut holes for electrical boxes, I do it often and find it to be clean and neat. I use a large popcorn bowl with a hole cut in the bottom to catch all the debris.
The problem is that I only get a couple holes in plaster before the hole saw is completely dull. The first couple holes are perfect, no cracking, just a clean smooth cut. But I can't afford to go thru a new hole saw for every 3-4 holes.
Do they make a hole saw that could cut plaster without getting dull quickly?
The problem is that I only get a couple holes in plaster before the hole saw is completely dull. The first couple holes are perfect, no cracking, just a clean smooth cut. But I can't afford to go thru a new hole saw for every 3-4 holes.
Do they make a hole saw that could cut plaster without getting dull quickly?
Gunguy45
05-22-09, 05:24 PM
Well..no expert volt..but I love tools. How bout a RotoZip with a carbide blade? Or carbide tipped hole saw blades?
I'm sure some of the guys with plaster experience will say..jeez Guns an idiot...lol.
I'm sure some of the guys with plaster experience will say..jeez Guns an idiot...lol.
the_tow_guy
05-22-09, 05:27 PM
Guess we're both idiots; I read this post and was going to suggest RotoZip, but wasn't sure about the plaster use. It's a whiz on drywall. Beer 4U2
VoltageHz
05-22-09, 05:30 PM
The Rotozip (or the Dewalt model like I own) with a tile bit is EXCELLENT on plaster.
I tried it out on the plaster at my own house. The only problem is that cutting just one single gang hole in the kitchen put a thick layer of dust on EVERYTHING in EVERY ROOM of my house.
They don't make a vacuum attachment for my Dewalt, altho they do for the Rotozip. I still wouldn't trust it.
I really like using a hole saw, it works very well for me, they only problem is that I need one made for plaster so it won't get dull so quick.
I tried it out on the plaster at my own house. The only problem is that cutting just one single gang hole in the kitchen put a thick layer of dust on EVERYTHING in EVERY ROOM of my house.
They don't make a vacuum attachment for my Dewalt, altho they do for the Rotozip. I still wouldn't trust it.
I really like using a hole saw, it works very well for me, they only problem is that I need one made for plaster so it won't get dull so quick.
nap
05-22-09, 07:48 PM
I was thinking maybe the carbide grit hole saws (http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture100/chancease/product4.jpg)
Not sure but a little reading does seem to show they do recommend them (themselves of course) for plaster and such. Maybe worth buying one and trying it.
Not sure but a little reading does seem to show they do recommend them (themselves of course) for plaster and such. Maybe worth buying one and trying it.
CNTRTOP
05-22-09, 07:58 PM
L S Starrett makes carbide tipped hole saws up to 6" diameter. Just google carbide tipped hole saws, & you'll find lots of sources.
Good luck.
Good luck.
VoltageHz
05-22-09, 08:00 PM
So carbide tipped is what I need, it won't get dull after drilling into plaster?
Thanks!
Thanks!
CNTRTOP
05-22-09, 08:10 PM
Eventually it will get dull, but it can be resharpened just like carbide tipped circular saw blades. Currently the only thing harder is diamond core saws, but they need water and would be a mess to use overhead. You may have to send it back to the manufacturer for resharpening unless you have a good sharpening shop near you. Good luck
VoltageHz
05-22-09, 08:42 PM
I guess it all depends on the price vs. how many cuts I get.
Currently I get about 3 cuts out of a $20 hole saw, that's about $7 per cut. If I could lower it down to $2-3 per cut I would be much happier.
Currently I get about 3 cuts out of a $20 hole saw, that's about $7 per cut. If I could lower it down to $2-3 per cut I would be much happier.
chandler
05-23-09, 05:48 AM
Out there is a diamond grit hole saw. I have seen it, but can't remember where. I thought at the time it would be a good investment, but we don't do much plaster here, mostly drywall, so I didn't buy it. In itself, it will be a little expensive, but probably not as expensive as buying carbide hole saws every 3 holes! I'll see if I can find the reference and let you know.
Look at the bottom of this page Diamond Drill Bit & Tool (http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-tool.com/Diamond-Drill/Default.htm?Diamond-Drill-Bit.htm)
Larry
Look at the bottom of this page Diamond Drill Bit & Tool (http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-tool.com/Diamond-Drill/Default.htm?Diamond-Drill-Bit.htm)
Larry
tightcoat
05-23-09, 09:49 AM
Your idea of cutting through a bowl is great. Any chance you could add a vacuum attachment to the bowl and a foam seal of some sort in order really and truly to contain the dust?
VoltageHz
05-23-09, 10:53 AM
Your idea of cutting through a bowl is great. Any chance you could add a vacuum attachment to the bowl and a foam seal of some sort in order really and truly to contain the dust?
I put typical foam weatherstripping around the top edge of the bowl and some duct tape where the drill goes thru the bottom of the bowl. That contains all the dust very well unless I drill into an attic with a lot of positive pressure which only happened once and still didn't make any real mess.
The vacuum idea is something I was trying to avoid for two reasons. First is having to deal with yet another tool. Second is the fact that even with a good vac and new filter, some of the dust from drywall and plaster always manages to get thru and blow out the vac.
Just the other day I had 2 pendants over the kitchen island, a ceiling fan in the living room, a pendant over a bar table, and a ceiling fan in a bedroom to install in a house. I ran in and marked them all out then I brought the drill and holesaw combo in and made all 5 cuts in about 4 minutes. No dust, perfectly smooth holes without cracks or rips. It's really a nice method, the only problem is plaster (which seems more like concrete).
I put typical foam weatherstripping around the top edge of the bowl and some duct tape where the drill goes thru the bottom of the bowl. That contains all the dust very well unless I drill into an attic with a lot of positive pressure which only happened once and still didn't make any real mess.
The vacuum idea is something I was trying to avoid for two reasons. First is having to deal with yet another tool. Second is the fact that even with a good vac and new filter, some of the dust from drywall and plaster always manages to get thru and blow out the vac.
Just the other day I had 2 pendants over the kitchen island, a ceiling fan in the living room, a pendant over a bar table, and a ceiling fan in a bedroom to install in a house. I ran in and marked them all out then I brought the drill and holesaw combo in and made all 5 cuts in about 4 minutes. No dust, perfectly smooth holes without cracks or rips. It's really a nice method, the only problem is plaster (which seems more like concrete).
VoltageHz
05-23-09, 10:57 AM
Out there is a diamond grit hole saw. I have seen it, but can't remember where. I thought at the time it would be a good investment, but we don't do much plaster here, mostly drywall, so I didn't buy it. In itself, it will be a little expensive, but probably not as expensive as buying carbide hole saws every 3 holes! I'll see if I can find the reference and let you know.
Look at the bottom of this page Diamond Drill Bit & Tool (http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-tool.com/Diamond-Drill/Default.htm?Diamond-Drill-Bit.htm)
Larry That is a little pricey. For $100+ each I would need to get 35+ holes out of it for it to be worth it.
Another issue is that it says not to cut concrete. It seems like a lot of the rock-lath and plaster walls around here have concrete in them. You can see a layer of gray concrete with little rocks in it and then another layer of white plaster on top of that.
Look at the bottom of this page Diamond Drill Bit & Tool (http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-tool.com/Diamond-Drill/Default.htm?Diamond-Drill-Bit.htm)
Larry That is a little pricey. For $100+ each I would need to get 35+ holes out of it for it to be worth it.
Another issue is that it says not to cut concrete. It seems like a lot of the rock-lath and plaster walls around here have concrete in them. You can see a layer of gray concrete with little rocks in it and then another layer of white plaster on top of that.
tightcoat
05-23-09, 04:02 PM
From the studs out you have
lath, this could be wood lath. gypsum lath or rarely in houses metal lath. You might try using two saws for plaster over wood lath. One to cut the plaster then another one for the lath
gypsum plaster: usually about a half inch thick over wood or gypsum lath maybe more for metal lath yes is has sand in it and it is hard but not usually as hard as concrete or Portland cement plaster
finish plaster: this is usually high in lime content and is usually no more than 1/8" thick. It can be white coat which is not as hard as Keenes cement which you might find in kitchens and bathrooms. There are also gypsum plaster finishes. They are usually quite hard
It is probably the sand in the brown coat that does the most damage to the saw.
The gypsum lath is about as hard as conventional drywall.
metal lath is another story and figure on kissing a hole saw goodbye even quicker for that.
Just figure the cost of saws into the price of the job and sell your customers on the neatness and cleanliness of your work,that and the fact that there is no plaster repair involved.
lath, this could be wood lath. gypsum lath or rarely in houses metal lath. You might try using two saws for plaster over wood lath. One to cut the plaster then another one for the lath
gypsum plaster: usually about a half inch thick over wood or gypsum lath maybe more for metal lath yes is has sand in it and it is hard but not usually as hard as concrete or Portland cement plaster
finish plaster: this is usually high in lime content and is usually no more than 1/8" thick. It can be white coat which is not as hard as Keenes cement which you might find in kitchens and bathrooms. There are also gypsum plaster finishes. They are usually quite hard
It is probably the sand in the brown coat that does the most damage to the saw.
The gypsum lath is about as hard as conventional drywall.
metal lath is another story and figure on kissing a hole saw goodbye even quicker for that.
Just figure the cost of saws into the price of the job and sell your customers on the neatness and cleanliness of your work,that and the fact that there is no plaster repair involved.