Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Tiling on drywall?

When designing our kitchen, my wife was going to put up that very lightweight aluminum backsplash that I'm sure you've seen. You know, if comes in silver, and copper colors, etc.

Of course, now that we're ready to pick out the counter top, she spotted a great deal on these Italian ceramic 4x4 tiles, and she loves them. Now she wants to use them instead.

I've never used ceramic tile before, but I'm sure I can handle it. The question is though, I have new drywall up there now since I wasn't planning on putting anything heavy there. Can ceramic tile be placed on drywall, or do I need to rip it down and replace it with cement backerboard? If I can do it, is there a special type of adhesive I should use, and/or should I prime the wall or leave it the way it is? Thanks!

Not a Tile dude...but from lots of reading here..yes, for a backsplash you can put tile directly on drywall.

As to the adhesive..some will say use thinset mortar everywhere..others will say mastic (sometimes sold as pre-mixed thinset or similar) will work fine.

My opinion, being a non-tle Pro, you could use mastic. If you've put down tile before and are comfortable mixing a powdered product with water to the right consistancy and doing the required steps..then use thinset mortar.

The Tile experts will weigh in soon....this was just my opinion.

Yep, drywall is fine for a backsplash. Backerboard is only an absolute necesity in a bath/shower alcove.

But for a backsplash, I do recommend a fired tile. Natural stone tiles need peridoc sealing and are susceptable to staining.

As to adhesives, I agree that thinset is more durable, but mastics work OK for a backsplash.

If anybody knows, great, otherwise I can check on the electrical board...

I guess my next problem is the electrical outlets. I think they make some kind of "box extension" for just this case, to bring the outlet out so that it's flush with the tile?

Yes. They have box extentions at the big bos stores.

Yes, you can put ceramic tile on drywall, but I think it's best if you roughen it up a bit. I thing there are tools for that, but probably making deep scratches with a screwdriver will do. Otherwise it may be that the cement does not attach well.

About the outlets, depends how the front part is fixed to the box. When it's with screws, use longer screws. When it uses kind of clamps, it might simply hold on to the tiles without box extension, I've managed that in my home.

LucHt....
For instance "cement" is not used for setting tile, and you don't need to gouge up or scratch the drywall when the correct adhesive is used.

There are also rules on how deep from the face a box can be...longer screws are not normally the answer. And I've never heard of outlets being held on by clamps.

Gunguy45,

I don't think that the concepts are wrong

In the context of the LucHt's message, "cement" means adhesive. And this is correct.
You will find lots of websites using both words, and calling the glue contact cement
Contact Cement - Super Glue Adhesive Products (http://superglue.supergluecorp.com/tccb.html)

According with the Webster Dictionary
Cement: any soft substance that fastens things together firmly when it hardens, as glue

As for the outlets, not all the covers use screws. There are several alternatives like sliding covers, using springs, etc

Yikes.....where did this thread go?

Thinset is portland cement, but I would not call it glue like Patricia so kindly linked too.

Also, national electric code says receptacles cannot be more then a 1/4" back from the finished wall surface.

Mark,

Where and when I callled thinset a glue?

Please, read carefully the original post and the answer. Both are speaking about the word "cement" and how any adhesive can be called cement independently if it has a powdered substance made of burned lime and clay or has not these components like a simple contact cement or glue, for example

Why are we talking about this? Where is the relevenacy in these posts?

In my case, because I am here to help the users!! :D

Beer 4U2

Gonna need more then beer. I'm thinking tequila.

No tequila here.... just a good wine from Niagara :thumbup:

:D:beers::beers::D

It's ok to tile on drywall if you're pretty sure the backsplash will not be drowned from time to time. Make sure the edge of the drywall is 3/16" to 1/4" above the countertop, so the drywall will not wick water.

Don't use thinset mortar, however. This is a water based cement product. The water gets sucked in by the drywall paper facing which has two bad effects. 1. The thinset is weakened because it cannot cure as strong without the missing water. 2. The drywall may be damaged by the water or it may cause mold.

Use a mastic made for wall tiles. Be sure to hold the bottom row of tile from 1/8" to 3/15" above the counter top. You will want to caulk this line with a good silicon modified latex caulk color matched to your grout.

You can also use Loctite's new Power Grab adhesive to set backsplash tile. This is tiler heresy, but it works, it's neat and quick. Just run a bead around the border of the tile, then press it in place. Unlike most tile mastics, Power Grab holds the tile firmly in place. The tile can easily be positioned, but once in position will not slide.

Good luck

Don't use thinset mortar, however. This is a water based cement product. The water gets sucked in by the drywall paper facing which has two bad effects. 1. The thinset is weakened because it cannot cure as strong without the missing water. 2. The drywall may be damaged by the water or it may cause mold.



Huh? Please provide data that thinset should not be used on drywall. Did you know they have 100% water proof shower system that is installed by thinsetting fabric directly to drywall, i.e. Schluter Kerdi.

Please don't be telling people not to use thinset on drywall. :thumbdn: