Patching and Plastering - New Drywall...Samshed edges..

Hey whats going on...so i ordered drywall from home depot and it got delivered and some of the edges were smashed in some spots and i was wondering if i shoud take those sheets back and return them for new ones with perfect edges or is there a good fix for it that will last and not crack in a short time?? and another question i have is, when i hang the drywall in my living room with cathedral ceiling do i butt the ceiling panel to the wall panel or do i run the ceiling panel a ;ittle past the wall panels edge. and last how and where should i put floating joints to allow for builing movement without a ton of cracking?Thanks for all replies in advance its really gonna help me a ton..

You have the "right" to have received undamaged property. However, unless it is quite a number of sheets and the damage isn't that bad, would it be worth your time to load them up, take them back pick up new and bring them home. Lost time. If the edges aren't that bad, that area can be repaired. Plan on using them in corners, or in cut offs where it will be removed.
If you are hanging both ceiling and walls, install the ceiling first, then butt the walls up to the ceiling panel. Helps with support of the edge of the ceiling panel, and the line will be less noticeable.
There are no "floating" joints in sheetrock. All must be firmly attached to framing members or sleepers. The only joints you will not support, typically, are the ones that span the end of the sheets across the studs/joists. Sheetrock can take the span of 16"oc without cracking.
Now, you are in California, so check with your local building department to see if there is any uncommon building practice you must adhere to.

"off the wall" suggestion :rolleyes::
In addition, check out these techniques for air sealing during installation.

Air Barriers: Airtight Drywall Approach (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/4-air-barriers/air-barriers2014airtight-drywall-approach/?searchterm=drywall)

Drywall, Wood and Truss Uplift (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0107-drywall-wood-and-truss-uplift)

Sounds like an ad for building science, as in most of your posts. Are you employed by them? The OP was only worried about the damaged edges of his sheetrock. This other stuff probably won't help him. I'm originally from Atlanta, too, but the best picture I ever saw was "Atlanta" in my rear view mirror.

Yes, peescal, there really are floating joints. You still need backing, and nail/screw within 7".Some hangers attach 2x2" flashing to hang ceiling edges from, it moves with the trusses/rafters.

The manufacturer of the board should know: page 7,

with pictures on page 6. (figures 3,4.)

http://www.gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-07.pdf Be safe, G

Maybe my terminology was erred, but I was referring to "floating" as in mid air with no support. I agree with the absence of nailing in the top plate. It can crack quite readily if rigidly tied to the truss system.

Chandler, no, I am not employed by Building Science and have no connection with them. I have been reading a lot of the articles on their site recently while planning renovation of my home.

Peescal has a great opportunity to decrease air infiltration as well as use installation techniques to reduce the development of cracks in the drywall.

[sigh]

Hey thanks for that gypsum link gbr has everything you need to knomw, except....When i hang the drywall on my cathedral ceiling do i run the drywall all the way down to the top plate of my house and just butt the wall to it covering about 6" of the ceiling sheet rock or do i bring it down to where the corner of the wall sheet and the ceiling sheet would meet

Audel Complete Building Construction - Google Book Search (http://books.google.com/books?id=Z8apR1RkUHUC&pg=RA1-PA608&lpg=RA1-PA608&dq=gable+vent+or+soffit+vent&source=bl&ots=gS6elel5KA&sig=NVC2InoVWlvDkp4eVqT1UA_QZBo&hl=en&ei=8h0KSqSpLKTgtAPf5ezhCA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9#PRA1-PA616,M1)

This book page 306, notice; --- N --- in the picture. That is how most rafters sit on the wall. Perhaps someone did not bird's mouth level cut the rafters?

Be sure to use an A-3.5 or H clip at every rafter to the wall.

Product Category: Earthquake/High Wind for Home Projects (DIY) (http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/earthquake_diy.html)

Be safe, G

"floating joints" are used. I do not do rock so I cannot speak to the engineering of where and when they are needed but a "control joint" is common is large walls in the types of construction I deal with.

they use these:

http://www.british-gypsum.com/images/prd_control-joint(co)_hgh.jpg

those are also available in vinyl.



here is also site that speaks to them and rock walls in general:

http://www.usg.com/resources/architect/pdf/02AugustMovementStress.pdf