Gardening and Horticulture - How Close Can I Plant a New Tree. . .
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RudyFrimmel
05-12-09, 12:41 PM
Last year I cut down a 30' Bradford Pear that was suffering from fire blight and was almost dead. I have a 'volunteer' Silver Maple that I started from a seed last year that's about 14 inches tall that I would like to plant as close as possible to the same location where the Pear was.
The stump from the previous tree has been taken down to ground level and the tree did have a well-established root system. I'm wondering how much contention there will be between new roots and old roots. Ideally, I'd like to put the new tree within 5-10 feet of the old one.
Newt - do you think that will work?
Thanks!!
The stump from the previous tree has been taken down to ground level and the tree did have a well-established root system. I'm wondering how much contention there will be between new roots and old roots. Ideally, I'd like to put the new tree within 5-10 feet of the old one.
Newt - do you think that will work?
Thanks!!
Newt
05-12-09, 01:01 PM
Hi Rudy,
Maple trees are not susceptable to fire blight which is a bacterial disease. Members of the rose family are effected. From this site:
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh132.pdf
Fire blight is caused by a bacterium. The disease occurs wherever susceptible trees grow in the United States and Canada, but it is more serious in warmer climates. It affects only members of the rose family, including crabapples, apples, mountainash, hawthorn, and ornamental pears; however, some cultivars of these trees have good levels of resistance to the disease.
Resistant cultivars of crabapples include Centurion, Harvest Gold, Prairifire, and Robinson. Resistant varieties of pear include Cleveland Select and Whitehouse.
I would say to allow as much space as possible between the new tree and the roots and stump of the pear because, as the pear roots and stump decompose, the soil will settle. Is there any way you can have the stump and most of the roots dug out? Maybe just many of the roots on the side where you want to plant the maple? If not, consider planting your little tree in a pot, sunken into the ground, for two or three years. Each year in the spring you will need to pull the pot and transplant to a larger pot to allow for root growth.
Here's digging info to remove a stump.
http://www.freeplants.com/tree-stump-removal-instructions.htm
You can use this organic method to help the stump decompose.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=50
Newt
Maple trees are not susceptable to fire blight which is a bacterial disease. Members of the rose family are effected. From this site:
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh132.pdf
Fire blight is caused by a bacterium. The disease occurs wherever susceptible trees grow in the United States and Canada, but it is more serious in warmer climates. It affects only members of the rose family, including crabapples, apples, mountainash, hawthorn, and ornamental pears; however, some cultivars of these trees have good levels of resistance to the disease.
Resistant cultivars of crabapples include Centurion, Harvest Gold, Prairifire, and Robinson. Resistant varieties of pear include Cleveland Select and Whitehouse.
I would say to allow as much space as possible between the new tree and the roots and stump of the pear because, as the pear roots and stump decompose, the soil will settle. Is there any way you can have the stump and most of the roots dug out? Maybe just many of the roots on the side where you want to plant the maple? If not, consider planting your little tree in a pot, sunken into the ground, for two or three years. Each year in the spring you will need to pull the pot and transplant to a larger pot to allow for root growth.
Here's digging info to remove a stump.
http://www.freeplants.com/tree-stump-removal-instructions.htm
You can use this organic method to help the stump decompose.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=50
Newt