Painting - Painting behind a toilet tank
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buyrbabe
05-09-09, 08:43 AM
I am in the process of removing old wallpaper and repainting my bathroom. I need to get behind the toilet tank to remove wallpaper so I can paint. Is there some trick to this or do I need to remove the toilet or can I remove just the tank? Any ideas would be much appreciated! Thank you.
Gunguy45
05-09-09, 08:56 AM
You should be able to just remove the tank to get access. You will need a new tank to bowl gasket for the re-install. Get new bolts also. I'd also replace the line to the toilet from the cutoff valve if its not a stainless steel flex line.
The only big problem will be if the valve won't close completely. Test that before you do anything. Turn off valve, then flush toilet, you shouldn't get any water flow into the the tank.
The only big problem will be if the valve won't close completely. Test that before you do anything. Turn off valve, then flush toilet, you shouldn't get any water flow into the the tank.
Bigg_Billy
05-09-09, 10:11 AM
I am in the process of removing old wallpaper and repainting my bathroom. I need to get behind the toilet tank to remove wallpaper so I can paint. Is there some trick to this or do I need to remove the toilet or can I remove just the tank? Any ideas would be much appreciated! Thank you.
My vote would be to just pull the toilet, $2 wax donut, and you're back in business.
My vote would be to just pull the toilet, $2 wax donut, and you're back in business.
marksr
05-09-09, 02:42 PM
I second the removal of the whole commode - easier/quicker and less danger of breaking something.
Gunguy45
05-09-09, 02:55 PM
Ok, I saw several folks recommended the same thing (remove the whole toilet). So I just want to defend my thought process...lol.
Looking at the user name, I'll presume a female member. An entire toilet can be heavy as he11, plus you have water in the trap to make a mess. Then you have to clean off the old wax, and what if theres a problem with the flange that hasn't been a problem so far, cause the wax ring and base caulking are holding everything just fine. And then trying to get the nuts off the holdown bolts can be a b!tch, many have to be hacksawed off, not as often with tank bolts. And I've seen plenty of bases get cracked by overtightening the bolts also.
You still have to deal with a possible bad valve and replacing the fill line maybe, so is there really any huge advantage to pulling the whole thing? Yeah, a few bucks diff between the wax seal and the tank to bowl gasket, but you still need a new bolt kit.
I know for some people (me as well), they'd want to know if there was a problem and fix it all at once, but that can turn a simple painting project into an all day toilet fix mission.
JMHO
Looking at the user name, I'll presume a female member. An entire toilet can be heavy as he11, plus you have water in the trap to make a mess. Then you have to clean off the old wax, and what if theres a problem with the flange that hasn't been a problem so far, cause the wax ring and base caulking are holding everything just fine. And then trying to get the nuts off the holdown bolts can be a b!tch, many have to be hacksawed off, not as often with tank bolts. And I've seen plenty of bases get cracked by overtightening the bolts also.
You still have to deal with a possible bad valve and replacing the fill line maybe, so is there really any huge advantage to pulling the whole thing? Yeah, a few bucks diff between the wax seal and the tank to bowl gasket, but you still need a new bolt kit.
I know for some people (me as well), they'd want to know if there was a problem and fix it all at once, but that can turn a simple painting project into an all day toilet fix mission.
JMHO
marksr
05-09-09, 04:01 PM
It might not be a problem with newer commodes but I've seen a lot of the older ones where the tank bolts were pretty well rusted and I would be leary about breaking something if you tried to remove them.
Good point about the weight factor:thumbup:
Good point about the weight factor:thumbup:
Bigg_Billy
05-09-09, 04:41 PM
I looked at the user name and figured it was a guy who buys his women for the night, as opposed to marrying them, and would be strong enough...gee, hope I'm right.......
buyrbabe
05-09-09, 07:50 PM
Thanks for all the suggestions. My first time on this website and I am suprised by the number of responses! The bolts don't look rusted and I have new flex stainless lines so I think I'll opt for trying to move just the tank. I am female, sorry Bigg_Billy, and only weigh 120 lbs so maybe moving the whole toilet wouldn't be a good option for me. I was hoping someone would give me a quick gimmicky way to get behind the toilet without moving anything...oh well...
Bigg_Billy
05-09-09, 08:42 PM
Oh sorry, well if you wet the paper thoroughly, you can scrape behind from all angles with a wall paper scrape rand a taped on extension, and then use a hot dog roller with a long handle to paint. It's just easier to take it apart.
sirwired
05-10-09, 09:34 AM
Well, if it makes any difference, this is another vote for pulling the tank only. I'll take a Dremel to rusty tank bolts any day of the week before I would futz around with the wax ring. What a smelly, disgusting, failure-prone for a DIY, gunky mess.
SirWired
SirWired
Slatz
05-11-09, 08:42 PM
Use a long handled mini roller with some gel remover and wet the wallpaper thoroughly. Let that sit for 10 min and reapply.
Try pulling the paper off carefully by getting a grip on something that is close but not behind the toilet. If you can get it away from the wall, use the roller handle (without the roller on it) to help pull the paper off behind the toilet.
I hardly ever remove the toilet. I use a long handled mini roller to extend my reach.
When I do have to remove the toilet, I opt for the tank only. To me it is simpler than removing the whole toilet. You will probably have to replace the bolts and washers on re-installation of the tank.
Try pulling the paper off carefully by getting a grip on something that is close but not behind the toilet. If you can get it away from the wall, use the roller handle (without the roller on it) to help pull the paper off behind the toilet.
I hardly ever remove the toilet. I use a long handled mini roller to extend my reach.
When I do have to remove the toilet, I opt for the tank only. To me it is simpler than removing the whole toilet. You will probably have to replace the bolts and washers on re-installation of the tank.
wildbill7145
05-17-09, 07:17 AM
For what it's worth, one thing I've found helpful in the past for painting behind a toilet is to wrap the tank in a garbage bag and tape the bag tight to the tank. This protects the tank from any paint. Cut in behind the tank as far as you can with your brush, then as others have said use a mini roller on a long handle to get behind the tank. Wait for paint to dry and remove garbage bag. This area is never fun to paint as you are always squeezing your head and hands in around someone elses toilet and floor area to cut in. Just imagine and repeat to yourself "these are clean people, nobody in this house doesn't sit when peeing. I'm sure they clean this area regularly" and repeat.
Afterwards, wash hands thoroughly and do your best to forget where they've just been. Do not paint this area before you go for lunch either.
Afterwards, wash hands thoroughly and do your best to forget where they've just been. Do not paint this area before you go for lunch either.