Welding and Metalworking - Bernzomatic torches

I have a small BernzOmatic propane gas canister with a BernzOmatic torch head on it. The torch heads never seem to last very long. They don't last as long as the propane in the canister. It's a 400g or 14.1 oz canister. You would think the torch would last for the amount of gas in the can - it's not a big can - but this never seems to happen. So I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong, or if there is something you're supposed to do to make the torch head last as long as the actual gas. Like I haven't used the torch for at least a month, and when I tried to use it today, I went through 20 matches before giving up. It isn't igniting.

Or maybe this is normal? You're supposed to buy several torch heads to go with these propane cans?

Obviously I'm not welding, I just use the gas for minor soldering/plumbing.

Depending on which one you have the orifice is likely getting plugged.
If you have a simple brass nozzle just unscrew it and the orifice should be threaded into the end of the tube where the nozzle came off.

They are very difficult to clean and you should be able to get a replacement.
It is possible that when you remove the torch from the tank the tank opening and the end of the torch are getting dirty.
If you keep these parts spotless you likely won't have any problems.

They are very difficult to clean and you should be able to get a replacement.
It is possible that when you remove the torch from the tank the tank opening and the end of the torch are getting dirty.
If you keep these parts spotless you likely won't have any problems.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'when you remove the torch from the tank...'
are you supposed to be removing the torch from the tank after using it? Wouldn't the gas escape? I thought you screw the head into the can and leave it like that. I don't remove them until the torch stops working. This means there's no opportunity for anything on the inside to get dirty. So how can it be dirty if it's not exposed to anything?
How do you keep it spotless?

Here's a picture of the product. I connect the 2 parts shown in the picture and leave it like that. Are you supposed to separate them after using it in order to clean something?

http://www.skillcraft.co.za/images/bernzomatic_torch.jpg

You can seperate the two after use..in fact you probably should. There could be a very small amount of leakage past the valve which would empty the cannister over a long period of time. Nothing should leak out of the can with the head removed.

I've never had a problem like you describe, I've got one head that has to be 20 y/o, probably had 20 cans of propane through it. I've never done much more than disconnect and put the head back in my plumbing toolbox.

btw...you can use the short fat cans of propane (like for coleman stoves) as well. I like them cause you can usually find them on sale at wally world for cheaper than the tall cylinders and they're a little more stable when set down. Also more stable when using the heads with the hose connection.

You should buy a torch lighter.If you open a torch just a little bit too much the pressure of the gas can blow out a match.Lighters use sparks to light the torch lowering blow outs.

Be careful about how hard you tighten these torches when you are done using them.You do not have to tighten them with force.If you overtighten they can become damaged and either not reopen or reopen partially.The metal they are made of,usually brass,is soft.

Cylinders often have a plastic cap on them when purchased.This is there to protect the threads during shipping and on the shelf but will also serve as a cover when the torch is not in use.

If you do need a new orifice they are easy to find as Bernzomatic is the most common brand and also manufactures many store brand torches and cylinders.

I have several of the old BernzOmatic torch heads from my father & grandfather. There seems to be one in the bottom of every toobox. I see the dust and dirt fall off them when I pull them out and they work every time. I have tried several of the new models with the automatic ignition, store them in their clean protective case and as doublezero has noticed they don't seem to last very long. Soon I end up going back to the old ones that just keep going, and going, and going.

Ok, so after reading the responses from Gunguy, SPDavid and Pilot Dane, it seems that the one thing I'm doing wrong is: not removing the torch head from the tank after use. Apparently if I remove the torch head and put it somewhere, it will not get clogged with dirt and when I re-attach it to the tank, it will work. But I would have to keep it somewhere free of dust and dirt, so the toolbox isn't a good place for it.
I also shouldn't use too much pressure closing the tank after use. And don't open the gas too much when trying to light it. I'm not doing that though. I'm not doing anything differently from when it ignites to when it doesn't ignite.

Maybe there's somewhere you can buy old-fashioned torch heads that can take normal wear-and-tear like Pilot Dane suggests? The torch head I have in front of me says Medina N.Y. so it's made in USA; I would expect it to be higher quality than some Chinese piece of junk - But maybe it isn't. Are these low-quality torch heads which are designed to stop working after a small amount of use so you have to buy another one?

The type you show in the picture is the type PD was talking about, I'm sure. That basic head has probably been around for 50 yrs at least. I know the first torch I bought (which got lost somewhere in the many moves I've made in 30 yrs) looked just like it, or darn close. Came in a metal box, with a tank, sparker, soldering tip, flame spreader, and several replacement orifices.

Looking at the Bernzo website, looks like replacement orifices aren't available anymore, prob cheaper to make it in the tip.

The type you show in the picture is the type PD was talking about, I'm sure. That basic head has probably been around for 50 yrs at least. I know the first torch I bought (which got lost somewhere in the many moves I've made in 30 yrs) looked just like it, or darn close. Came in a metal box, with a tank, sparker, soldering tip, flame spreader, and several replacement orifices.

Looking at the Bernzo website, looks like replacement orifices aren't available anymore, prob cheaper to make it in the tip.

So this IS the old-fashioned type. As long as I remove it from the can between use it should last longer, right?

Who knows..?
Like I said, never had a problem like that. And contrary to what PD said, I have an older trigger ignited one thats prob at least 12-14 y/o, and it still fires right up when needed, and it just sits on a shelf in the garage near my cylinders when not used.

It seems to be a very mixed bag of experiences with the small plumbers torches.
Mine are all bad as I use to have to keep spare orifices on hand but they are now almost impossible to find.

Not sure if you are looking to upgrade your torch but what I have very good luck with in the small torch department are the Burnzomatic swirl combustion torches.
The concentrated heat has a shorter flame, heats very quickly and has trigger start.
Most swirl combustion tips can only be used at full output because the tip will overheat when turned down but I see that they now make one that is adjustable.

Click image:
http://bernzomatic.com/Portals/8/Resources/ProductImages/Fat_Boy_TS8000_Slvr_US-lg.jpg (http://bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/KITS/TORCHKITS/tabid/215/Default.aspx)
Image courtesy of burnzomatic.com

Swirl combustion tips in the larger acetylene burning torches made it possible to braze large tubing sizes without an oxy-acetylene outfit.

It seems to be a very mixed bag of experiences with the small plumbers torches.
Mine are all bad as I use to have to keep spare orifices on hand but they are now almost impossible to find.

Not sure if you are looking to upgrade your torch but what I have very good luck with in the small torch department are the Burnzomatic swirl combustion torches.
The concentrated heat has a shorter flame, heats very quickly and has trigger start.
Most swirl combustion tips can only be used at full output because the tip will overheat when turned down but I see that they now make one that is adjustable.

Click image:
http://bernzomatic.com/Portals/8/Resources/ProductImages/Fat_Boy_TS8000_Slvr_US-lg.jpg (http://bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/KITS/TORCHKITS/tabid/215/Default.aspx)
Image courtesy of burnzomatic.com

Swirl combustion tips in the larger acetylene burning torches made it possible to braze large tubing sizes without an oxy-acetylene outfit.

Whatever works. If this type of torch will outlast the gas tank, that's better than what I'm getting now.