Paneling and Trim - Beadboard paneling installation
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juliecram
05-06-09, 03:30 PM
This is going to be my first DIY project. I have helped my husband do many projects around the house but never on my own.
Here are my questions.
1. Do I start in the corner of the room and work outward or start at the door casing? Do I have to miter the panel in the corner?
2. Can I nail my baseboard (plain colonial trim) directly over the paneling, or do I have to buy the trim with the notch for holding the panel? (I am hoping to reuse the trim I presently have up)
3. We have a decorative molding under our window sills, do I remove that and put the beadboard flush to the bottom of the sill, or do I cut out around the molding?
4. We have carpet on our floors, do I make my measurements from the subfloor or from the carpet level? (Does that make sense?)
I think that is all. I just want to make sure I start the project off on the right foot so my husband doesn't have to fix it for me....
Thank you!
Here are my questions.
1. Do I start in the corner of the room and work outward or start at the door casing? Do I have to miter the panel in the corner?
2. Can I nail my baseboard (plain colonial trim) directly over the paneling, or do I have to buy the trim with the notch for holding the panel? (I am hoping to reuse the trim I presently have up)
3. We have a decorative molding under our window sills, do I remove that and put the beadboard flush to the bottom of the sill, or do I cut out around the molding?
4. We have carpet on our floors, do I make my measurements from the subfloor or from the carpet level? (Does that make sense?)
I think that is all. I just want to make sure I start the project off on the right foot so my husband doesn't have to fix it for me....
Thank you!
Bud9051
05-06-09, 05:11 PM
Hi Julie and welcome to the board. We all have different trades and this is not my best, but I can ask questions. Can you explain "Beadboard paneling" and how thick it is. I'm familiar with beadboard insulation so I'm picturing white foam beadboard attached to some paneling. Your explaination will probably be better than mine.
Bud
Bud
chandler
05-06-09, 06:40 PM
Julie, carrying Bud's comments further. Are you applying this over sheetrock or another layer? It is best, as the 3/8" beadboard paneling will tend to bow between studs if you don't have it supported properly.
1) Generally, I start by measuring the wall to see if it will fall between full sheets. Then I apportion the distances and start in the middle of the room so the fraction of sheets will be as large as possible in the corners. The beadboard has an overlap that you have to adhere to when installing. Don't staple through it until your next sheet is up.
2) You can use your old molding back, but be prepared, your outside corners will be short by 3/4". Inside corners will need to be trimmed a little.
3) With windows, you will meet your match. I would remove the apron trim across the bottom, and I also find the nail heads in the sill, drive them on through and remove the sill. This way you can trim the ears back 3/8" and replace the sill flat against the paneling. If you have case molding around your doors and windows, you will have a 3/8" space between your existing jamb extension and the molding. It will need to be filled with strips of wood glued in the space.
4) Take your measurements from the ceiling, and cut it slightly short of your carpeting. Remember you will have molding going back on the bottom to cover the space.
Come on back, there are alot of us on the forums that will be able to help with your project.
1) Generally, I start by measuring the wall to see if it will fall between full sheets. Then I apportion the distances and start in the middle of the room so the fraction of sheets will be as large as possible in the corners. The beadboard has an overlap that you have to adhere to when installing. Don't staple through it until your next sheet is up.
2) You can use your old molding back, but be prepared, your outside corners will be short by 3/4". Inside corners will need to be trimmed a little.
3) With windows, you will meet your match. I would remove the apron trim across the bottom, and I also find the nail heads in the sill, drive them on through and remove the sill. This way you can trim the ears back 3/8" and replace the sill flat against the paneling. If you have case molding around your doors and windows, you will have a 3/8" space between your existing jamb extension and the molding. It will need to be filled with strips of wood glued in the space.
4) Take your measurements from the ceiling, and cut it slightly short of your carpeting. Remember you will have molding going back on the bottom to cover the space.
Come on back, there are alot of us on the forums that will be able to help with your project.