Patching and Plastering - fix drywall after wallpaper removal?

Hi, everyone. I got to reword this post. Alright, I'm living with my parents and they have started a project which consisted of removing the old wallpaper from the bathroom of this house that we've just purchased. The house is thirty years old. After having removed all the decorative layering, we were left with the base layer of the wallpaper (I'd assume that to be the adhesive surface).

My mom was given the suggestion of applying a mixture of vinegar and water to these sheets of paper after scoring it then letting the solution sink in for fifteen minutes. She was then told to remove the paper afters in however way possible. Certain areas were easier to remove than others. What we were left with is a combination of mostly the white backing of the drywall (possibly a primer), the top layer of the drywall (a gray colored surface), and an every here and there cardboard surface which was exposed upon occasionally digging into the surface to hard with the scrapers. On top of all this, we're left with little bits of remaining adhesive paper and a good amount of glue residue.

From all the sites I have visited, I've accumulated a list of approaches and formed a plan:

1st. I will sand the area as best as I can with 150-200 grit sanding blocks. I've actually done so already and have sanded off any hanging pieces of gray paper from the areas that had exposed the cardboard backing of the drywall.

2nd. I am recommended to use Gard Problem Sealer which is a water based sealer designed for adhering to "damaged" dry wall, on their product page they have a small picture of the situation I have where the cardboard is exposed. What I'm looking for is an alternative and a confirmation that I would be using a sealer in this situation.

3rd. I'm then told to sand the area once again and fill in the indents with joint compound. I was also told I should skim coat those areas. (What's best? I need an elaboration of what skim coating really means)

4th. I'm told I can use Gardz again as a primer (Using the same product or a different one?) or I'm supposed to apply another layer of sealer (Obviously the same product if this is the case) then sand again.

5th. Then I'm suggested to prime again with an oil based primer. (If Gardz can't act as a primer considering that I'm told that sealers repel paint adhesion while primer aids in adhesion) (Would a latex primer do anything justice?)

6th. Paint two layers of the desired paint.

What I need help with is advice and suggestions for a better approach to this situation. I also need alternative products because I'm just looking to purchase products from the local Home Depot. I'm in dire need and with the pressure of my stepdad trying to tell me and my mother that this task is impossible for us, I need some solutions. This project wasn't started by me but my parents who didn't bother doing the research and preparation required to take on the task and I'd like to provide them with that solution needed to rememdy the situation.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3885/0501091744.jpg Here's what I'm talking about. This is what I sanded down with I think 150-200 grit sandpaper block or w/e it is that was in my stepdad's garage. This is how it looked before but it's a good summary of what was left afterwe took the initial coat of wallpaper off.

Wallpaper should be banned!! :madhell:

Here's how I would handle it.

Scrape or sand off anything that is flaking off. If you have to, take a knife and cut the paper to stop it from peeling off or it will just keep going.

Use an oil based sealer/primer like Kilz or Zinsser BIN to cover the exposed paper. You sometimes can skip this step but it depends if you get bubbles on the next step.

Skim/ patch the holes and imperfections. Skim coating is just a thin coat of mud on the whole section of wall. When skim coating it helps to thin the mud to mashed potato (no lumps ;)).

Lightly sand any bumps.

Hold a light near the wall to highlight anything you missed and circle them with a pencil. Then refill.

I like to prime with tinted primer of the color you are going to put on. Check again for any imperfections with a light if needed, and touch up. Then follow up with your final color.

Wallpaper should be banned!! :madhell:

Here's how I would handle it.

Scrape or sand off anything that is flaking off. If you have to, take a knife and cut the paper to stop it from peeling off or it will just keep going.

Use an oil based sealer/primer like Kilz or Zinsser BIN to cover the exposed paper. You sometimes can skip this step but it depends if you get bubbles on the next step.

Skim/ patch the holes and imperfections. Skim coating is just a thin coat of mud on the whole section of wall. When skim coating it helps to thin the mud to mashed potato (no lumps ;)).

Lightly sand any bumps.

Hold a light near the wall to highlight anything you missed and circle them with a pencil. Then refill.

I like to prime with tinted primer of the color you are going to put on. Check again for any imperfections with a light if needed, and touch up. Then follow up with your final color.

You have no idea as to how much I agree with banning the use of wallpaper. Although I do give props for the application done on to my younger brother's wallpaper. It's quite aesthetic.

What I'm told though is that I'd need to prime the area prior to doing spot detailing such as patching? Is that true? I'm guessing the sealer/ primer step you told me to do covers that detail. Like I've mentioned, isn't there a difference between a sealer and a primer or is an application of either one equivalent to one another when it just comes to dealing with the dry wall considering I'm still priming afterwards?

I'd also like to ask if it's really required to skim coat or if the joint compound would be sufficient enough? Although I'll do my best to not cut corners with this project. I'm doing my best to come with the best but cost-efficient solution in order to show that my stepfather is wrong and that me and my mother can remedy the situation. He doubts our potential and assumes that we'd need a professional for this type of task.

EDIT: If you hadn't noticed, I've provided a much more elaborate and coherent version of my original post just for the sake of clarity. I'm already guessing you took note of the image. From your calm-like post, I'd assume that this isn't that terrible of a situation considering I've came across other people who went directly into the drywall.

All in all...Do you consider something like this possible for someone like me and my mother who has never done carpentry work like this before? It's a stepup and a good experience for me actually considering I'm nearing adulthood as an 18 year old.

For now, I'd appreciate if anyone can provide a list of things (as specific as possible) I'd need for this task.

What I have so far (based on the products recommended to me, as specific as I can be, I'd also request for further specification of the type I need) in the order I would use them in (with the exception of equipment) is:

1. Water-based sealer for damaged or cardboard exposed drywall.

2. 150-200 Grit sandpaper blocks/ sandpaper

3. Joint compound and Mud? Or just mud?

4. Oil-based latex primer (I have latex-based, would that be a problem?)

5. General-material-based paint

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8378/0502091429b.jpg
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8827/0502091429a.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/9102/0502091516.jpg

You can see all the imperfections. Sorry about the poor quality of the images.

Tolyn, I understand what you meant about primer/sealer by the way. I hear they're considered a DRC product meant for the repair of drywall. What I'm curious is that you mentioned oil based while this guide mentions it's water based: Wallpaper Preparation (http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/wallpaper_preparation.html)

Traditionally a solvent base primer [either oil base or pigmented shellac] was needed to seal the damaged drywall and lock down any remaining adhesive. Zinnser's Gardz is a latex based primer that will also work. Your link to the article also mentioned SWP's preprite line of primers. I've used most of them but don't recall one similiar to gardz.

The problem with using just any ol' latex primer is the water in the primer can cause further peeling on the drywall paper. That is also the reason it's best to prime prior to repairing the wall with joint compound.

That makes so much sense considering if the adhesive, as suggested, is water based, then using a water based product would reactive the adhesive which is not what I want.

I'll take you and Tolyn's guidance/ words and take on this project with positivity then. So far, no one has gone off saying, "Wow...This is going to be too much" except for my stepfather. Fortunately, I calmed him down by persuading him that we're in no rush and that he complied saying to my mother to not rush this kind of project. So with my insight, of course thanks to you folks, hopefully this comes out decently.

Right now, I'm just considering trying to to clean off as much of the glue residue as possible but focusing mainly on what the next step will be considering the primer/sealer will lock down the glue. I'll post pictures as I follow through-but it won't be for another week or two.

The oil based primer/sealer is not just for the glue it is also to seal up the exposed paper. Otherwise the paper has a tendency to bubble.

Mud = joint compound. I like to use the "Sheetrock brand Plus 3" in the blue bucket. It is easier to sand than the green bucket stuff. Sometimes it is easier to just cover the entire wall with a thin skim coat rather then try to fill every little hole. But do what works for you.

After you fix the walls to your liking, a water based primer is just fine. Just don't use it for step #1

I think your project is quite do-able. I am in the construction trade, but I am not a taper. However, I have done quite a bit of taping/wall repair including fixing some wallpapered walls in a kitchen and down a hall for my inlaws that was no better than yours. They got a quote for $1800! So I told them, since I was layed off, that I would do it for less. Took me 3 days, maybe about 18 hours, and it turned out pretty good IMHO. Even with the dark red that they picked for the paint color.

Tell your step father to take a hike! :p Not really but don't listen to him. You can do this!

Did I mention wallpaper should be banned! :D