Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - How to attach ledger to STUCCO House?

We are building a new deck. How do I attach the ledger to the house when the finish is stucco? Do I need to remove the stucco? The previous deck had the ledger nailed through the stucco so there are a gazillion nail holes in the stucco. Any help would be appreciated. I'm not clear on how to attach flashing to prevent leaking on the stucco. :)

The ledger should have NEVER been attached with nails!! It should have been bolted through the stucco and into the framing.

What kind of stucco??

If it's 3 coat (a solid concrete product), leaving it in place is acceptable, provided it is properly flashed so that water can't get to the bolts. If it's foam core, it has to be removed, the ledger attached to the framing, and flashing installed to prevent water from getting into the cuts or to the bolts.

More than likely, I would make it free-standing and not have to be concerned about a wall attachment and all of it's related potential of leaks.

I'm in cold country and always try to build free standing, as suggested. It just eliminates so many headaches. If you don't have frost, it just makes it that much easier. Trying to flash what you have properly will be a challenge. IMO

Bud

I'm casting my vote for freestanding as well. The same posts that are used for support continue through the floor & are used for the railing.

Thanks for the advice, it is indeed the three coat stucco. So I am leaning toward leaving it in place. I don't think a free standing deck is an option given the surrounding circumstances.
What do I use for flashing? How do I make sure it attaches securely to the stucco to divert the water away from the lag screws?

Another option is to stand the ledger board off from the wall. You essentially select, say 4 contact points and install 10x10 blocks at each point, 1 1/2" thick, properly flashed and sealed. Then you run your full length ledger board across in front of these blocks. You will need some really heavy bolts run all the way through the blocks and rim joist, but it limits the amount of exposure and related flashing.

Just a thought,
Bud

cut a 1/2" reglet 8" above the deck. bend the flashing 90 degrees so it tucks into the reglet. shove a 1/2" backer rod in the top and caulk it with a good mastic.... i hate this detail, but not sure of the other options. don't use aluminum flashings - they aren't compatible with preassure treated woods....