Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Tiling Shower

Hello,
We are in the very early stages of tiling our shower. We have the framing up and the pipes pulled and that is about it. The concrete was cut so we could move the drain as this bathroom was supposed to have a fiberglass tub. The shower size is going to be an odd shape 42"x60" or so. The drain i mention above is along one of the narrow ends of the shower.

1. Do i need to center this drain in the shower if we are going to tile the entire thing or is it OK to leave it where it's at?

2. We have a bunch of 2" tiles leftover from another project. They are a rialto style tile and look like they might be kind of porous. Is it OK to use these for the flooring of the shower? what are the ideal tile to use and disadvantage of this type of tile?

3. Is there a good how to on building the pan and sealing this shower so it is water tight?

4. This shower is in a basement bath. Anything a person can do to warm these tiles?

Thanks for the help.

I'm certainly not an expert.....but I might have a couple of answers for you.

1. It should be fine, but maybe someone else will know something I don't.

2. I would use those tiles along the top of the shower (by the ceiling), but I wouldn't put them down where the water is going to be, and DEFINITELY not on the floor. Maybe that's just me?

3. Personally, I would purchase a preformed pan. There is a company called Onyx based out of Kansas that makes a solid shower pan in pretty much any shape, color, and size you could dream up--they are also relatively affordable. Kohler also has some cast iron options as well in more standardized sizes. Again, maybe that's just me. (No, I don't have any affiliation with either of those companies. :))

4. Radient floor heating. They make a "low profile" electric version that takes up less space than the water based version, it's supposed to be pretty energy efficient, and easy to install for the average homeowner. Check out the ones that are a "mat" variety. (Note: You aren't planning to put this UNDER your shower pan, I hope? You are just wanting to warm the tile floor of the bathroom? Right?!)

Good luck!

Thanks for the response Capable_Wife

2. If i were going to have the floor tiled it is a good idea to use a 1 or two inch tile on the floor isn't it? I would guess it would be easier to get the slope required to the drain then trying to use a 12" tile? Sounds like with the particular tiles i have, however, i should go with a different tile?

3. Originally I was trying to stay away from the preformed pans as they seemed pretty expensive. My wife and I checked into a ditra pan for use on custom sized showers and it was out of our price range. I will certainly check with Onyx and Kohler as it would certainly be easier to use a pan then build our own.

4. Actually I was thinking under the shower in some form. Since it is in our basement and those tiles get cold i was thinking it would be nice if the shower floor were warm before getting in.

Thanks again and I will do some additional looking into the pans.

2. If i were going to have the floor tiled it is a good idea to use a 1 or two inch tile on the floor isn't it? I would guess it would be easier to get the slope required to the drain then trying to use a 12" tile? Sounds like with the particular tiles i have, however, i should go with a different tile?

Yes, using smaller tiles would definitely make your job easier if you do it that way (less breaking/cutting)....I just wouldn't use porous tiles because they would be hard to keep clean and I'm sure there are probably other reasons against it also. When I was looking at tiles in a showroom, they actually steered me away from stone tile for a shower because it's not easy to clean--they suggested a ceramic tile with a faux stone finish (which are cheaper anyway) or even glass tiles (a bit more costly.)

3. Originally I was trying to stay away from the preformed pans as they seemed pretty expensive. My wife and I checked into a ditra pan for use on custom sized showers and it was out of our price range. I will certainly check with Onyx and Kohler as it would certainly be easier to use a pan then build our own.

I really don't know what your budget is, but definitely check those out to see if either of those is in your price range. Remember also, your sanity is worth quite a bit. :p Beer 4U2

4. Actually I was thinking under the shower in some form. Since it is in our basement and those tiles get cold i was thinking it would be nice if the shower floor were warm before getting in.

I really think your best bet is to just run the warm water for a little bit before stepping in. Hopefully, someone will know more about this than I do.

Don't waste your money on prefab pans. You can build a quality tiled floor using the traditional mud installation, or look into the Schluter Kerdi system for less money then a prefab.

You can install floor heating, but it will add a significant amount to your electric bill if you use it frequently.

Here is the proper way to construct a mud pan (traditional shower pan):

Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb. (http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html)

Don't waste your money on prefab pans. You can build a quality tiled floor using the traditional mud installation, or look into the Schluter Kerdi system for less money then a prefab.

You can install floor heating, but it will add a significant amount to your electric bill if you use it frequently.

Here is the proper way to construct a mud pan (traditional shower pan):

Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb. (http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html)

Wow! That looks like a LOT of work, but thanks for the link...I've my own shower to redo--as you've seen, so maybe if I decide I'm feeling capable I'll try to utilize some of this. :cool: However, he says his shower is in a basement wouldn't it be a bit different to do this on concrete (which I'm assuming that's how his is currently set up)? Or would the method be essentially the same?

Same installation procedures as above if you are on concrete, but you don't install tar paper or the metal lath on the concrete slab. You would just sprinkle some thinset on the concrete, and then toss in your buckets of mud.

The Schluter Kerdi system has a preformed pan in which you install their Kerdi membrane over it.

HotinOKLAHOMA....

i followed that exact procedure 7 years ago. having never worked with PVC liner, cement board, etc... it worked out great. i highly recommend this procedure, its hundreds of dollars cheaper than a pan and it has proven the test in my house. and it is much more attractive than a pan.

the only modification i made to it was the use of a mop on rubber membrane (laticrete) directly between the mortar bed and the thinset. probably too redundant, but this system has not failed me.

make sure there's no nails sticking up throught the existing floor.

Excellent. Thanks for everyones help.

I will take a look at it further today. But do have a quick question on the first few instructions about building the slop. I asked this of capable_wife and she thought it would be fine so what is your take. My drain is towards one end of my rectangular shaped shower. I would say currently i could have the drain 6" from the wall on the one side. What does one do with the slop at this end of the shower? Would it be of equal height as the far side and then the slop made more drastically to the drain since it would only be 6" to the drain? I should get a picture. Would make it way easier i think. Hopefully you understand what I am trying to say.

Olson

You mentioned that were originally going to install a tub here. Is the drain line 1 1/2" or 2". 1 1/2" is ok for a tub but not for a shower. A shower needs 2", thats code.

I sure hope it is 2" as we told them we may only put a shower there when the home was built. I will double check.

Good to go. It is a 2" line.

I am still curious about how one slopes the pan if the drain is off center? Is it slopped more drastically on the narrow side does anyone know?

Code requires the pan to be sloped 1/4" per foot from the furthest point to the drain. This is usually one of the corners of the wall furthest from the drain. From there, draw a level line around the perimeter of the walls. If the drain is not centered, the slope will be more than 1/4" per foot to the closer walls and if its real close to the wall, that slope can be severe. That is why centering the drain is desirable.:)

Thanks for the reply.
To make sure i understand. For example:
Furthest corner is 4ft to the drain and the other side is 6" so the drain is off center.

From the drain to the 4ft corner i would have a 1" difference and I need the same 1" slope on the side where there is only 6" too.

if that is the case, i can see why one does want this centered. I think i will need to reevaluate or at least try and get it as close to center as possible.

From the drain to the 4ft corner i would have a 1" difference and I need the same 1" slope on the side where there is only 6" too.

Yes you have it right.........

Sounds like i better get the concrete saw out again then. :)

Thanks for the info