Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers - Honeywell TrueIAQ wiring problem

Hello,
I've installed a Honeywell TrueIAQ, HE265DG115 by-pass, non-powered humidifier with Digital Control and a remote sensor. It does not work unless I change humidistat option 25-2, Hum forces fan on, or 25-3, Hum operates independent of fan. I believe that it should work when optioned to turn on when either heat or fan turns on Option 25-0,1. I've included a link to DigitalIAQ Qwners Guide which illustrates on page 11 how it should be wired.
I have a pretty good wiring schematic of the existing arrangement but am unable to include it with this msg. If anyone thinks it would help, I will gladly send it to an e-mail address. A picture is worth 1000 words, eh?
Any assistance is appreciated.
Thanks, Bdavis
http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/69-2072.pdf

You may send the drawing to my e-mail

jaymarking at gmail dot com

Jay, Have you had the time to look at my wiring schematic? Any thoughts???

Thank You, BillD

Yes, I did.. Did you get my reply?

The wire hooks up looks good, and was wondering what your settings are set to on the IAQ?

Jay,
IAQ Humidistat options: 10-1, 15-2, 20-55, 25-1, 30-0, 35 thru 40 not used, 45 thru 60 not used, 65-0, 80 thru 145 not used.

All the settings are good.

So with 25 at 0, the humidfier is not coming on when there's call for heat?

Jay,
Sorry about the delay in replying. We went to Home Depot and purchased about 800 sf of hardwood flooring for my next project.
With opt. 25 set to heat or fan (0 or 1), the humidifier does not turn on.
As of now, the only way that I'm able to engage the humidifier to turn on, is to use option 25-2 or 25-3.
Bill

Check to make sure you are getting power on IAQ's W from the t-stat. Also same for G.

Also double check the C wire at both spots.

Jay,
Please give me a quick discription of what I am looking for on the w,g,r and c leads. Which is my return ground (C perhaps)?
All of the checking need be done at the heater with the t-stat operating I expect?
When no heat, no blower on, what should I read on the t-stat leads?
When burner on, what should I read on which t-stat leads
When burner and blower on, what should I read on the t-stat leads?
If you had a chance to look at my existing T-Stat wiring, only the Rc, Y and G are terminated on a common transformer.
The R and W are terminated on T1 and T2 of the burner control.
Thanks for your patience, Bill D.

Sorry for not getting back to you. I was on vacation, and got busy with other things around the house.

Jay,
Please give me a quick discription of what I am looking for on the w,g,r and c leads. Which is my return ground (C perhaps)?

R-C=24 volts.

Fan switch to on G-C=24 volts.
Fan switch to Auto (no call for cool) G-C= 0 volts
Call for heat W-C = 24 volts.
Call for cool Y-C = 24 volts.


All of the checking need be done at the heater with the t-stat operating I expect?
Correct


If you had a chance to look at my existing T-Stat wiring, only the Rc, Y and G are terminated on a common transformer.
The R and W are terminated on T1 and T2 of the burner control.
Yes, those are correct. There's no jumper between R and Rc right?

Jay, Thank's for replying.
There is NO jumper between R&Rc.
I'll check those other voltages asap.

Bill D.

Jay, I just checked voltages on those t-stat leads. R-C, 24v constant.... G-C, just as you indicated, 0v or 24v... W-C, 0v with heater on or off. The voltage never changes at the t-stat.
That would appear to be the reason that the humidistat control never turns on the humidifier.
Any thought of where I go from there?
Many thanks for the t-stat lead info. It gave me the info I needed to verify the t-stat control leads with reference to the(C) common lead.

Thanks, Bill D.

Ok, if you are not getting 24 volts on W on call of heat, then you have a break in the W line from the t-stat.

Check to make sure you have good connection from W at the t-stat down to W at the Humidifier.

Jay, It appears that I have a 2 transformer setup. The Honeywell t-stat has no jumper between R-Rc which indicates that it is a 2 transformer setup, which are isolated from each other....The Honeywell burner control that the t-stat R&W terminates on is supplying 24v, when the t-stat calls for heat it closes that circut. I verified that there is 24v at R-W on the t-stat with heat off. When heat comes on, the voltage drops to 0. If I make both 24v circuts common, won't I have 48v across all those 24v leads and propably blow everything on that circut?

I deleted the e-mail last night thinking I didn't need the drawing anymore.

Can you re send it again to me?

Thanks!

R-C=24 volts.

Fan switch to on G-C=24 volts.
Fan switch to Auto (no call for cool) G-C= 0 volts
Call for heat W-C = 24 volts.
Call for cool Y-C = 24 volts.

So - if you wanted to regulate the humidifier with the humidistat (and be able to run it during the spring/fall when you may not be calling for heat), could you wire the humidifier to G and C, and that would run it anytime the fan is on? (Hot, cold, or FAN ON mode). Is that correct thinking? I'm in Colorado and frankly we need humidification more than we need the furnace a lot of times.

Or - do I need to wire to R and C for the juice, and then use a current sensing relay on the "G" to turn it on?

As always - appreciate the help.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3673/furnaceboard.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3673/furnaceboard.jpg)

So - if you wanted to regulate the humidifier with the humidistat (and be able to run it during the spring/fall when you may not be calling for heat), could you wire the humidifier to G and C, and that would run it anytime the fan is on? (Hot, cold, or FAN ON mode). Is that correct thinking? I'm in Colorado and frankly we need humidification more than we need the furnace a lot of times.

You have the 700 Right? You could run it with the fan on, but honestly, lot of water is wasted down the drain.

Yes - 700 with the simple manual humidistat. My thinking is that during the summer when I really don't want it on at all, I simply adjust the humidistat to off and it's done until I need it. Basically, we don't want to have to turn on the heat to get more humidity. It's been 80 degrees for 2 weeks but we're still at 22 percent relative humidity right now :(

What do you suggest for wiring? I'd love to avoid buying and installing the current sensing relay.

Yes - 700 with the simple manual humidistat. My thinking is that during the summer when I really don't want it on at all, I simply adjust the humidistat to off and it's done until I need it. Basically, we don't want to have to turn on the heat to get more humidity. It's been 80 degrees for 2 weeks but we're still at 22 percent relative humidity right now :(

What do you suggest for wiring? I'd love to avoid buying and installing the current sensing relay.

What model Humidistat did you get?

I am afraid you may have to get the current sensing relay.

It's their standard 2-wire manual one. Here's the wiring diagram they provide:

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8316/700mwiring.th.gif (http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8316/700mwiring.gif)

It's their standard 2-wire manual one. Here's the wiring diagram they provide:


Do you run your fan all times?

I'm becoming more and more convinced that the humidifier is defective.

1) The power fan on it runs continuously, whenever it's plugged in. Regardless of whether or not the 24v line is on or not. That can't be right...

2) The 24v line, when the circuit is closed, the voltage drops to 3v, the transformer gets super hot and starts to smell, and the water solenoid never opens.

I'm running out of ideas before I have to buy another one to swap for this unit.

Jay, This may be a duplicate of a previously sent message. In any case, yes I have re-sent my schematic info to your e-mail
As always, Thanks.....Bill D.

I'm becoming more and more convinced that the humidifier is defective.

1) The power fan on it runs continuously, whenever it's plugged in. Regardless of whether or not the 24v line is on or not. That can't be right...

2) The 24v line, when the circuit is closed, the voltage drops to 3v, the transformer gets super hot and starts to smell, and the water solenoid never opens.

I'm running out of ideas before I have to buy another one to swap for this unit.

With the humidistat wire taken off, it still runs?

if so, yeah something is wrong, and I'd contact the company you got this from and have it replaced under warranity.

Jay, This may be a duplicate of a previously sent message. In any case, yes I have re-sent my schematic info to your e-mail
As always, Thanks.....Bill D.

Got it, Thanks Bill.

What is the model # of the Honeywell Burner control?

Jay, I have the orig. paperwork and was able to find the burner control and heater info. The Honeywell control closest resembles the R8184K model (no mfg. plate attached) and the heater is a Thermo Pride OH11. I scanned both wiring diag. and will send in a seperate e-mail.
Thanks, Bill D.

Ok, looks like we are going to need add a relay between the burner control and the IAQ.

Remove the W wire before we do any damage to anything.

Will need to add a relay like #94-390.

Jay, OK with the relay. Would it be the same as Aprilaire 24v
Current Sensing relay? I'll order whichever if you can get back to me before the end of the day. I'll be in Minneapolis Wed. thru Mon. next week, and be out of touch. I understand why you want to remove the white wire from the humidistat. Also, if you have relay wiring directions available all the better.
As always, Thank You, Bill D.

Any relay with 120 volt coil will work.

It can be found on E-Bay (http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-Furnace-Relay--110-120-volt-coil-2NO%2f2NC-Contacts-_W0QQitemZ370118801085QQcmdZViewItem).

You won't be to far from me when you are in Mpls. It's 90˚ out right now.