Walls and Ceilings - Need adivce on fixing drywall around moisture problem area

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bwester
04-12-09, 01:14 AM
Hey gang,

I am new to the forum, and I would like to thank everyone in advance for the help!

Here's my problem: I run a food service business and have an area around my my ice machines where the drywall has gotten wet over the years (from leaking ice machines and water dripping form the buckets). The back wall of the room is cement, and doesn't seem to be damaged, but the side wall is drywall and is getting rotten and moldy.

We have gotten the leaking under conrtol as much as possible, but it's bound to get wet from time to time and I'd like to make my wall somewhat "waterproof."

What type of drywall should I use? I've heard of Green Board, and Cement board, but I'm not sure what the difference is or if either would be good for my application.

Should I put some type of plastic sheeting over the wall kind of like a backsplash behind a sink?

Is there some type of rounded cove base I can use at the bottom of the floor to keep water from going under the wall?

Should I put some type of water resistent barrier between the wall studs and the drywall?

Should I use a special paint on the wall to help repel water?

Oh, also the whole building is metal stud construction. Are the metal studs something I have to take into consideration when making any of these choices?

I know this is a lot, but any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks again for the help.


marksr
04-12-09, 05:44 AM
Welcome to the forums!

Cement board is generally used under tile. Green board is moisture resistant and the yellow [I think] is mold resistant.

Ideally the wall would have a water resistant covering. Tile would work well [probably the most expensive] You could also glue some type of plastic laminate to the wall. If you go with paint, prime and then apply 2 coats of semi-gloss enamel.

There are several types of moulding that can be used at the bottom. I assume you are referring to the vinyl base often used in commercial applications. It should help although it's best [if possible] to keep the area dry the majority of the time.

GBR in WA
04-12-09, 12:02 PM
Green board is no longer used in wet locations, in UBC and IRC this year. Cement boards wick water as stand alone. Densheild has a waterproof facing and nothing inside that can mold or rot.

Scroll down to Interior walls: Panhandle Insulation (http://www.panhandleinsulation.com/buildingmaterials.html)

Be safe, GBR


bwester
04-12-09, 01:53 PM
Thanks for the tips. I am definetly going to pick up some Densheild, and probably get a plastic laminate over it as well.

Would it makes sense for me to paint AND cover with laminate over it? I am going to paint the rest of the wall anyway, so I figured I might as well paint the whole thing unless there is any reason why I shouldn't...

Also, upon further looking I noticed some of the metal wall studs are rusting a bit. Should I sand these down and paint them with a rust inhibitor paint, or should they be fine? From what I can tell it is just surface rust, all of the studs seem structurally sound.

THANKS AGAIN!

marksr
04-12-09, 03:07 PM
The studs should be fine but a little sanding and paint won't hurt:D

Paint always helps to deter moisture and laminate should glue fine over the paint.

awesomedell
04-14-09, 10:59 PM
Well let me throw in another suggestion as well there is a product called dragonboard that is a really good product for such an application as yours. There are also products available that are drywall back with vinyl facings, sorry I can't give you a specific product name, but I'm sure if you'll so a web search you'll find them. wallsandceilings.com is a good place to start. But the densishield is a good product too.

bwester
04-15-09, 09:41 AM
Thanks for the suggestion.

I actually just put up USG ToughRock because it claims to be "moisture-resistant", and I spent quite a bit of money on some FRP to go over it all. Hopefully nothing ever gets past that. I got the FRP adhesive and am applying it with the suggested 3/4" v-groove trowel. I have a very limited budget, and the ToughRock/FRP combo seemed like a better option than just going with a Densheild type product with nothing over it.

I sealed the back of the drywall behind the wall I'm repairing with mildew resistant primer, and I also painted all the metal studs with a rust prevention paint.

I plan on caulking all around the FRP and then putting a vinyl cove base around the floor and caulking that.

We'll see what happens I guess! ;)