Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Sears Lawnmower Electric clutch

Hi,
I have a 24 HP Sears lawn tractor (4 yrs old) and the blades will not disengage. I got the deck off and checked under it. I disconnected the wire to the clutch, and it still won't disengage. I put a 5/8 wrench on it but the crank just spins. Not sure how it works, but what would make it stay on all the time with no voltage going to it?:eek:

Thanks,
Dave

Sounds like the clutch lower bearings have gone bad and jammed, making the entire thing turn all the time. You'll have to hold the engine from turning or use an impact wrench to remove the bolt that holds the clutch on.

Thanks cheese, impact gun and compressor are on the way over...I'll get it off and look it over. I wonder if the bearing is servicable (replacable)or not? I can probably cross reference the bearing. One other thing I wondered is in the manual, it says to remove the "clutch locator" (looks like a bracket) if you want to change the drive belt, but I don't see one. It looks like I can take the belt right off with no obstructions other than the wire...I'll post a pic if I can...
Thanks,
Dave

You will need to find out what happened to that bracket (clutch locator) if it is what I am thinking. It should mount to the inside of the chassis and extend toward the pulley and line up in a notch on the clutch assy that keeps the outer part from spinning with the crank...could be part of the problem although I am not sure how it has not spun the wires for the clutch around something by now...again if this is what I am thinking of...

Post the numbers for your rider, might be of more help

ok,
The model is 917.273622. After a little more investigation, there is an arm that fits into a groove in the clutch that keeps it from spinning. Just not exactly what it shows in the manual, my guess is that it was an improvement that allows you to replace the drive belt without removing the bracket. I got the clutch and pulley assembly off the crankshaft and it did free up the 2 halves enough so they spin independently, but squeeky and with a lot of resistance. I plugged it in and tested the switch, I can hear it engage, and disengage. I'm not sure what to do next, I see a bearing on top, and one on the bottom, but wasnt sure if theres one inside. I attempted to separate the pulley from the clutch, but I think I would need to remove the 3 bolts with the springs on them before it would come apart?
Thanks,
Dave

Good you have the arm I was thinking of.
I've not done much work on the clutches themselves short of replacing the assy. so sorry I am not of much assistance there.
You might go ahead and price a new clutch just so you know where you are before attempting overhaul.

Yea,
I removed the 3 bolts and it came right apart. Top bearing is rough, bottom bearing inside pulley is siezed up tight. I'm thinking new clutch assy. $229 from Sears. Hopefully it comes with the pulley and all for that price. Do you know if it does? It's Sears part #174367. Looks like it does from the manual...
Thanks,
Dave

Yes, it comes as a complete assembly ready to install. I have replaced the bearings in them before, but they are about $40 bearings, and not very easy to change...involves some grinding on some clutches, ...you'd probably be ahead to just install a new one.

Yea I figured,
plus the clutch plates are all scored up due to not fully disengaging and slipping at one point before it failed totally.
Anyways I had one more question...I did a search in google on "174367" and came up with an aftermarket clutch option for $165 vs $210 for OEM. Any recommendations on that or do you know where there may be a cheaper option that will work?

Thanks everyone for their help, I'm new to this site, and that was my 1st post.:thumbup:
Dave

There are other clutches that will fit/work. The best ones are the ones that look like yours... with the three nuts, one at each corner of a triangular shaped clutch. Some aftermarket ones are not built this way and don't last as long.

You will need to find out what happened to that bracket (clutch locator) if it is what I am thinking. It should mount to the inside of the chassis and extend toward the pulley and line up in a notch on the clutch assy that keeps the outer part from spinning with the crank...could be part of the problem although I am not sure how it has not spun the wires for the clutch around something by now...again if this is what I am thinking of...

Post the numbers for your rider, might be of more help

Does anyone know a part number for that bracket. I can't find anything like it. My clutch which I recently replaced just spins around and breaks the wires. Any help would be greatly appreciated, a pic or a part number. Anyone can e-mail the info to loxpump@aol.com. Thanks

If you post the model number (917.258911) you sent me in a PM perhaps someone else can access a better drawing than the sears site has. Parts & Accessories | Shop & Find Lawn & Garden, Appliance Parts at Sears PartsDirect | SearsPartsDirect.com (http://www3.sears.com/) Perhaps you can pick it out from the extremely poor drawing, but I was unable to find anything I am sure is it.

The clutch is in the engine section, and I would expect the bracket to be in the chassis/enclosure section...
The bracket I am referring to is triangle shaped, bolts onto the inside of the right (as sitting in the seat) frame rail even and or just forward of the engine crank. It basically has a rod that extends to fit in a notch on the clutch assy. Not exactly a notch but one of three such slots in the assy.

Seems homeowners and the small time fixit guy are just one step closer to being unable to accessing parts and info for repairs on the cheap equipment being sold these days, and forcing disposal of old and purchase of new!

Sorry I am of no more assistance...

Good Luck.

I do have one in my shop if nothing else, I can raise it up snap and post a pic for you...