Patching and Plastering - shiny drywall seams
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Bernard_01
03-23-09, 04:05 PM
greetings, when remodeling our LR we put the new wallboard (sheetrock) taped, sanded & mudded. several thin layers and all is nice and smooth ready for paint. Next, we used a premium sealer/primer (orange can) applying several coats. Still when we put our finish topcoat of paint, all our seams have a very shiny and unforgiving appearance to them. BTW, our topcoat finish is satin. thanks for any suggestion.
-Bob
P.S. Is it that what i thought were premium primer/sealer didn't do the job? It was BEHR.
-Bob
P.S. Is it that what i thought were premium primer/sealer didn't do the job? It was BEHR.
marksr
03-23-09, 08:04 PM
Generally the coatings found at the big box are there because of cheap price, not quality :eek:
How does the wall feel? if there isn't a noticable bump, another coat of paint will probably fix it. Enamels often require 2 coats [after primer] on new drywall.
How does the wall feel? if there isn't a noticable bump, another coat of paint will probably fix it. Enamels often require 2 coats [after primer] on new drywall.
Bernard_01
03-25-09, 02:58 PM
Hi all, my finish coats are satin enamel. I put a 3rd coat this morning in an attempt to hide the shiny seams. Gosh, but my shiny seams where the joints are sanded still have the same shiny finish. :madhell: Could my choice of mud been wrong? It was the blue lid, low dust brand. Is it possible that an oil based primer should have been used? If I rework and re prime these seams will I have to repaint the entire room? Thanks for any and all help. :wall:
-Bob in New Hampshire.
-Bob in New Hampshire.
marksr
03-28-09, 07:25 AM
I don't know a lot about Behr paints other than the fact they are not top notch coatings.
The j/c with the green lid is better for taping but after the intial taping, it doesn't matter much, which j/c you used. Generally solvent based primers aren't needed on new drywall. Have you set a straight edge over the joints to see how level they are?
Enamels don't touch up as well as flat paints do and it is harder to get by with touch up in the middle of a wall as opposed to the corners.
The j/c with the green lid is better for taping but after the intial taping, it doesn't matter much, which j/c you used. Generally solvent based primers aren't needed on new drywall. Have you set a straight edge over the joints to see how level they are?
Enamels don't touch up as well as flat paints do and it is harder to get by with touch up in the middle of a wall as opposed to the corners.
gibsurfer84
04-12-09, 07:44 PM
I have a question, I am finishing my basement and am having a heck of a time with my drywall seams. All the seams were not sanded enough (yes I know, but I thought they were!) and now after painting, the seams just pop out. What are my options for fixing this? Just build up more mud on all the seams real wide and repaint?
I'm just not sure and feel like I have ruined my entire project....
I'm just not sure and feel like I have ruined my entire project....
marksr
04-13-09, 04:35 AM
Welcome to the forums gibsurfer84
It's hard to sand joint compound that has been painted. Generally skimming more mud over those areas is the best fix. If you need to lower any painted areas it is best to use a scraper and then go back to using j/c.
It's hard to sand joint compound that has been painted. Generally skimming more mud over those areas is the best fix. If you need to lower any painted areas it is best to use a scraper and then go back to using j/c.