Wells, Sump Pumps and Septic Sewage Systems - Wiring setup for Sewer Pump

Hello: I have a 2 chamber septic tank that flows into a seperated tank which has a sewer pump in it, from here it is pumped up to my field. Originally the pump was direct wired and the tank was 4.5 feet below dirt. Had problems so dug it up, built a box so I could access tank any time and an electrician recommended I put in a receptacle as opposed to direct wire. I did this but due to moisture the box only lasted so long - moisture & rust. Redid the box & connections and wrapped it like crazy. Good for quite a few years but problem this spring ... there was water (sewer water) above this receptacle box. I drained with another pump, plugged the sewage pump into extension cord from house and it pumped so ... I take it the receptacle box has corroded again to the point of not generating power??

Anyhow, there is only about 8 inches of wire in the box from the house so I can't get the receptacle above ground. The wire is 4 feet below ground. Can a junction box be used? and pumped full of foam to waterproof it? What are my options here? I believe the set up as is is against code? As long as it works I don't really care ... unless I sell.

When I checked the pump with the extension cord, it pumped but when shut off water flowed back into the tank. Is this normal? or do they have a check valve on them?

Feedback would be greatly appreciated. Could a liquid level switch which I know nothing about be incorporated somehow to warn when there is a problem?

thanks:wall:

Check out the link below for a box. I have a similar tank set-up and there is no check valve in the system. The water is being pumped up hill from the tank and would probably freeze in the pipe if there was a check valve. Without one it allows the water to run back into the tank and keep the pipe empty.

SJE-Rhombus Product Line (http://www.sjerhombus.com/products/product_info.asp?id=645&type=PLG)

What might be a good idea, is to pull the pump out and redo all the wiring.
With it out you would be able to install a new pump float and add an high water alarm float. A box like pumpguy talked about or one like it would make the upgrade a lot neater and cleaner looking.
You can check with some local septic co, they may have a similar type control box.

If you have any concerns about electricity or wiring this, any good electrician or septic installer should be able to do this.

That way all connection will be above ground. High and dry.


Like Pumpguy said. The water may drain back to keep it from freezing. If you don't have the freezing problem. A check-valve can be added while the pump is out of the tank.


Travis

Thanks for the input so far ... I was wondering whether I could rewire the pump to get it above ground. I thought the piggy back plug was on this pump but it is on my sump pump. For some reason the float was direct wired into the receptacle box and the pump itself is a grounded plug plugged into this receptacle. I believe the float and pump are okay, just the receptacle box is rusted out. I put in this box and wired it based on an electricians diagram but am uncertain why the float would have been directly wired ?? I noticed that this circuit is not GFCI protected and was also wondering what is better ... a GFCI breaker or the receptacle? or would it matter? I appreciate all of the feedback so far. I really like that box set up pumpguy mentioned but will have to do something cheaper for now.Beer 4U2

I don't know why he wouldn't have used the piggyback plug on the float unless it was bad. If you could extend your incomming power up to the surface you could just hard wire everything together in some kind of a sealed box and forget the outlet. You could probably do that down below as well. The black wire from your incomming power would go to one lead of the switch and the other switch wire would go to the black wire on the pump. The white wires get connected together and the grounds get connected together. It's not the best way to fix this but it would be cheap. At the home centers they have splice kits that can be sealed. There are a few different ways to do this. One I have used is a round connector with 3 or 4 holes on each end. You insert the wires into the ends and lock them down with a set screw. The whole thing gets covered with a piece of shrink tubing that has a sealant inside that melts and seals when you heat it.