Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - fillling gaps after caulking?

I just re-caulked my tub and there are a few little gaps were the caulk looks like it sagged a little. I used Permseamseal acrylic latex. Is it possible to fill those gaps and/or caulk over them after the initial layer has dried?

Although reported to be easier to use than silicon, I found that the acrylic skinned over more quickly and was harder to finish for that reason. I worked quickly, and was smoothing less than a minute after laying it down, but it still quickly started generating little clods. :wall: I used all the usual techniques, like taping and using a small bead, and using a damp finger and cleaning it frequently.

Although nasty, sticky, stinky, and a pain, I'll stick with silicon next time.

I'm just the piano player, so don't shoot. Your acrylic latex will harbor mildew and will release in the moist environment, so you're gonna have to do it all over shortly anyway. You should use a product such as GE Silicone II, applied to a dead dry surface. The smaller the opening in the tube, the better you can apply silicone. IMO, I wouldn't even try to remedy the caulk you have down there, now. Clean it off, dry it and put down silicone.

I probably should have specified that I used the Perlseamseal Tub & Tile caulk, not the All Purpose. On several forums and pro-advice sites I read that this has superior mold and mildew inhibitors in it.

Here's a reference (there are others that specifically recommend Permseamseal):
Caulks and Caulking on the Natural Handyman home repair and do it yourself website (http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infcau.html)
If you are working with a tiled enclosure and a ceramic tub, you can use any bathroom-type, mildew-resistant caulk. I prefer PVA and acrylic latex caulks because they seem to be more mildew resistant, are long-lasting and can be more thoroughly removed from bathroom surfaces. Cleanup is also easier because they can be washed off with soap and water. However, they dry somewhat harder than silicone caulk.

You can just recaulk the affected area but it would be better to cut out a small section and then recaulk. The more surface area the caulk can adhere to, the better it will do.

Batkins, you're right. Not having all the information causes poor responses on our part. Do as Marksr says.

You can just recaulk the affected area but it would be better to cut out a small section and then recaulk. The more surface area the caulk can adhere to, the better it will do.

Ok, that makes sense. Due to the different levels of the tile, there are some places that probably could use more caulk as well. I've heard that sometimes you should build up caulk for areas that a too large for a single bead, but not large enough for backing (1/4"-3/8", for example). Can I just apply a second bead along the whole edge as a "top coat"? The caulk is still in new condition with no water exposure or use. As of this posting, it's less than 24 hours old. In fact, the water is till in the sub :)

Thanks Chandler, Marksr, I really appreciate your time!

I believe you would be ok doing that, just don't make it too thin. BTW, I had a shower door to install on a tiled shower I built for a client. I decided to try your product. Although my beads were only pencil lead thin, it worked great, cleaned with a wet sponge and was nowhere near the mess of silicone.

I believe you would be ok doing that, just don't make it too thin. BTW, I had a shower door to install on a tiled shower I built for a client. I decided to try your product. Although my beads were only pencil lead thin, it worked great, cleaned with a wet sponge and was nowhere near the mess of silicone.

Man, I wish I could do that!

You can.....that's why we're here.