Kitchen Gas Appliances - GE Cooktop Lighting Problems

I have a GE Profile five burner gas cooktop, model JGP975. It's only been used for one year. It has been converted for LP gas. The two simmer burners and the high output burner light up without any problems. The other two burners (one medium, one large according to the metal burner caps) have problems. The sparker works fine. A flame usually gets established at one or two orifices near the sparker. But the flame is slow to spread to the adjacent orifices. Sometimes you need to blow on the burner or push your hand downwards to encourage the flame to encircle the burner. Putting a pot on the burner seems to make the problem worse.

There are no ports on the pressure regulator to check the inlet and outlet gas pressure. But last year someone from our gas company was here for an unrelated gas furnace problem and he checked/set the gas pressure at the whole house regulator. So I'm assuming the gas pressure is not an issue, especially since the other three burners work fine.

I checked and cleaned the burner heads. They really weren't dirty or clogged in any way. I don't see much else to check. The only adjustment is for the low flame height, and that seems fine. I've verified that the orifices are the proper ones for LP gas.

Where do I go from here?

Hello BikerBill and Welcome to the Gas Appliances topic.

Oh Yes. How well I remember attempting to resolve the very condition you're describing. Sure glad I don't have to any longer....:D

The air to fuel ratio for each burner has to be very near perfect for those types of burners to light up. And if memory serves me, the orifices (which are the located on the gas supply to each burner head, are non adjustable. And neither is the air adjustable nor is there any air shutter.

The burner head has holes (ports) where the flames appear. Those are not orifices. Each must be clean and free of any debris. The cap must set correctly on each burner and often are not interchangeable even though the same size as another.

Try interchanging them. Those of the same size. Sometimes doing so on some models resolves problems described. At other times the fuel supply through each orifice has to be adjusted. Which requires burner head removal, etc.

Once brass or bronze orifice is accessed, it must be unscrewed open (turned counter clock wise) slightly more to increase fuel to the effected burner.

If a lack of fuel is the cause for the described condition, the above is not easy for a do it yourself person to fully nor easily accomplish. Simply the nature of that style burner and it's design. Good Luck.

Thanks for the welcome. And thanks for helping with the terminology (ports vs. orifices).

When I remove the burner caps and burner heads I can look down directly on the orifices. I certainly don't see anything about the orifices that appears adjustable. They're just a threaded, 7 mm hex-headed brass nozzle with a fixed hole or orifice. There is a screw that is used for setting the low flame height, but that's not my problem.

The burner caps sit flat/level on the burner heads. The burner heads and ports are clean. I can't interchange any burner caps or burner heads on the problem burners because they're the only ones that are that size.

You say I can increase the fuel to a burner by turning the orifice counter clockwise. That seems like I'd basically be starting to remove the orifice. Is that correct? If it is, what fraction of a turn would I likely need to turn it to remedy a marginal problem like this? By the way, the flames on the problem burners are not overly long, so this may well be what I need to do.

Hello: Bill

You say I can increase the fuel to a burner by turning the orifice counter clockwise. That seems like I'd basically be starting to remove the orifice. Is that correct?

I do not often use the quote option in a reply. But in this instance I think it is valid to highlight the question.

Answer to the question is yes. Turning the brass or bronze hex nut counter clock wise would increase the volume of gas to the burner.

Providing the orifice is adjustable. Not very likely any adjustable orifices are used but always possible.

Suggested amount to turn the orifice is about one to one and a half turns counter clockwise. As if removing (unscrewing) the orifice. Carefully doing that, so as not to twist any aluminum tubing the orifice is screwed onto.

Be aware that any orifice adjustment is not a one time matter. Often it is a task that requires several attempts to get it right. Right, meaning flame size correctly sized and providing quick positive burner flame ignition.

Also, the orifices may not be adjustable. Meaning no attempts to adjust will have any effect at all. It's a hit and miss or try and try again, all to no avail.

Worse yet, there is no air shutters on such burners. Those with vertical up wards facing orifices that is. So air volume is not adjustable. Only fuel and not even likely that.....:wall:

Caps may be slightly warped. Or possibly the burner head where the cap sets on, etc. Lots of variables. And each can change again over time, as I became aware of after returning to a customers home some time months later, same appliance and same condition....:madhell:

About all the info, advice and suggestions I have. Good Luck.

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