Kitchen Gas Appliances - No Heat Gas Dryer
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Hemingway
03-04-09, 08:21 PM
I know! This has been asked and answered repeatedly, and I've read ALL the responses on all of the DIY websites, and followed ALL the advice given.
Whirlpool gas dryer model #LGR7646JQ0. Dryer runs but burner never comes on.
I have cleaned all of the venting, but it was already fairly spic-n-span.
I viewed the gas valve through the window on the front, and the ignitor never illuminates.
I replaced the Ignitor and the Radiant Sensor. Idiot. $75. Still no heat.
I checked for continuity with the ohm meter (removing leads from terminals first) the holding and boosting coil (solenoid), the secondary coil, the igniter, the radiant sensor (in case I bought a bad unit), the high limit thermostat, and the disposable, one time Thermal fuse located on the blower wheel cover. The resistance readings on the coils are correct according to my research: On the coil with three terminals I got a reading of 1365 ohms between terminals 1 and 2, a reading of 560 ohms between terminals 1 and 3. The coil with two terminals had a resistance of 1220 ohms. On all the other parts the ohm meter's needle swung all the way around to zero.
I have not checked voltage, but like I said, the motor is running. I'm not sure how to check to see if the full line voltage is available to both the ignitor and the booster coil. I mean, I have a multimeter but I've never used it to check voltage. If I had explicit directions I could try that.
The only other thing that I didn't check is the Gas Valve armature, which shouldn't need replacing.
Whirlpool gas dryer model #LGR7646JQ0. Dryer runs but burner never comes on.
I have cleaned all of the venting, but it was already fairly spic-n-span.
I viewed the gas valve through the window on the front, and the ignitor never illuminates.
I replaced the Ignitor and the Radiant Sensor. Idiot. $75. Still no heat.
I checked for continuity with the ohm meter (removing leads from terminals first) the holding and boosting coil (solenoid), the secondary coil, the igniter, the radiant sensor (in case I bought a bad unit), the high limit thermostat, and the disposable, one time Thermal fuse located on the blower wheel cover. The resistance readings on the coils are correct according to my research: On the coil with three terminals I got a reading of 1365 ohms between terminals 1 and 2, a reading of 560 ohms between terminals 1 and 3. The coil with two terminals had a resistance of 1220 ohms. On all the other parts the ohm meter's needle swung all the way around to zero.
I have not checked voltage, but like I said, the motor is running. I'm not sure how to check to see if the full line voltage is available to both the ignitor and the booster coil. I mean, I have a multimeter but I've never used it to check voltage. If I had explicit directions I could try that.
The only other thing that I didn't check is the Gas Valve armature, which shouldn't need replacing.
Lemont
03-05-09, 06:07 AM
Sounds like to me the gas valve might be "stuck". I'm wondering if, while the igniter is glowing and the system is "asking" for gas, you could lightly tap (not pound or knock) the gas valve to see if you can get it to open?
Before this is done make sure there is gas to the unit. I'm sure there is but you never know. Also, if you are into it this far you may want to remove the feed tube from the valve to make sure all is clear and free of debris causing possible blockage to the valve.
Good Luck!
Before this is done make sure there is gas to the unit. I'm sure there is but you never know. Also, if you are into it this far you may want to remove the feed tube from the valve to make sure all is clear and free of debris causing possible blockage to the valve.
Good Luck!
Hemingway
03-05-09, 07:11 AM
Sounds like to me the gas valve might be "stuck".Thanks. I'm not sure how hard I want to tap the valve but I have a diagram and I'll disassemble the valve assembly and check a couple of parts for jamming / clogging... like the Burner Orifice and the Leak Limiter. There's a Regulator Adjustment Screw which I'll need to be careful to see how far open/closed is it before messing with it.
Edited to add:
I found the following advice on this topic:
Defective appliance gas valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire gas valve assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option, if the gas valve is found and/or determined to be defective.
Which, the gas valve assembly is very very expensive. And now I see this unwelcome advice:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.
Edited to add:
I found the following advice on this topic:
Defective appliance gas valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire gas valve assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option, if the gas valve is found and/or determined to be defective.
Which, the gas valve assembly is very very expensive. And now I see this unwelcome advice:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.
Hemingway
03-06-09, 12:57 PM
The Appliance guy said it wouldn't do much good to try to bring in the valve as he doesn't have a test bench that can reproduce normal operation, and it probably isn't the valve itself anyway. More likely something weird like a wiring problem, which is something they would check on an on-site visit, and the charge isn't usually much more than $150.
But since I can't be home during the day and don't have an extra $100 for labor, I'd still like to try to diagnose this myself.
But since I can't be home during the day and don't have an extra $100 for labor, I'd still like to try to diagnose this myself.
pugsl
03-06-09, 01:49 PM
Look under consul there is a wiring diagram there. Both thermostats, thermo fuse , ignitor, flame sensor should have continuity. Does not sound like gas coils as usually the flame would come on and than go off after a short time. Also your reading are close to what I remember. Spec may be on wiring diagram. Only other I can think of is the timer.
Hemingway
03-07-09, 03:17 PM
Only other [thing] I can think of is the timer.Okay, I figured out how to use the voltmeter, including the lesson on how much easier it is to puncture my thumb than the wire when backprobing. Good thing it was a red wire!
According to the schematic (http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schematics/motor/pictures/whirlpoolgasdryer.jpg), the timer is first in line to the gas ignitor. The voltmeter shows current out of every line except the line to the ignitor, which is why the motor runs but the heat doesn't.
Now to see what it would take to replace / repair...
According to the schematic (http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schematics/motor/pictures/whirlpoolgasdryer.jpg), the timer is first in line to the gas ignitor. The voltmeter shows current out of every line except the line to the ignitor, which is why the motor runs but the heat doesn't.
Now to see what it would take to replace / repair...