Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Contractor coming in to do shower pan in master

Hi,

I've read a lot on this and just have a few questions to get a second opinion. I'm remodeling my Master Bath and removing the tub and going with a tiled shower w/bench.

Question 1: I've read to use a mesh when installing the mortar bed slope, contractor says it's not necessary? He wants to just use the dry mortar bed to create the slope. Is there any requirement on the minimum/maximum thickness of the bed?

Question 2: Currently the bathroom is gutted out, the contractor is only taking care of the shower pan, I was planning on doing the rest. I saw Home Depot carries something called Easyboard, which is (a bit more expensive) supposed to be better than hardie backer for the walls of the shower, is this Easyboard recommended? Or is there anything I should know about it, if I consider it. I figure since it is lightweight, it would actually be better since my master is upstairs. Also whichever I use, (I keep hearing both sides to this) do I have to put up any sheetrock under the Hardiback/Easyboard? I was going to put up black roofing paper then the hardibacker, but don't know if sheetrock is required.

Question 3: I was planing on using the very small tiles for the shower floor, by doing so do I still have to worry about deflection? It's going to be a 3 1/2 by 6 foot shower. I'm assuming (hoping) that if I use smaller tiles, I don't really have to worry about them cracking due to deflection if I go with a stone instead of ceramic.

Question 4: I also want a bench. I was planning on framing it out, and having the shower liner go up the front of it, like the rest of the shower, would that be ok? Do I have to use a plywood or can I just put the hardibacker/easyboard over the studs? And does the shower liner have to completely cover the bench? Noble Company also has a bench that can be glued right before tiling. The slope floor it will cover is leveled with mortar placed down and glued to the hardibacker/easyboard. From the website, it is tile ready and although expensive it sits on top of the shower pan, so it eases my mind a bit. Does anyone recommend this? Thanks for all your help.

My apologies to HeresJohnny (our tile guy) for jumping the gun, but I asked him for this information yesterday. I normally don't do my pans either, but will do it tomorrow. This method seems to be the best I have seen, although some installers don't use two layers to do it. Johnny will be along shortly. This will give you some reading information in the meanwhile. Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb. (http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html)

Question 1: I've read to use a mesh when installing the mortar bed slope, contractor says it's not necessary? He wants to just use the dry mortar bed to create the slope. Is there any requirement on the minimum/maximum thickness of the bed?

Just so that we are clear on this, there are 2 sloped mortar bed's, one goes under the membrane (preslope) and the second goes over the membrane (setting bed for tile). Many skip the preslope, however thats a mistake. Its required by plumbing code, and the pan will not function properly without it. You dont say if the shower is being installed over a concrete slab or a wood framed floor. As to the preslope, if its on a slab, then no lathe, If its over a framed wood floor, then building felt and lathe for the preslope. No lathe in the setting mud bed. The link chandler provided is a good one to follow.

Question 2: Currently the bathroom is gutted out, the contractor is only taking care of the shower pan, I was planning on doing the rest. I saw Home Depot carries something called Easyboard, which is (a bit more expensive) supposed to be better than hardie backer for the walls of the shower, is this Easyboard recommended? Or is there anything I should know about it, if I consider it. I figure since it is lightweight, it would actually be better since my master is upstairs. Also whichever I use, (I keep hearing both sides to this) do I have to put up any sheetrock under the Hardiback/Easyboard? I was going to put up black roofing paper then the hardibacker, but don't know if sheetrock is required

I have not used easyboard. Id not say that its better than cement board or fiber cement board. It is an alternative. No reason you cant use it if thats what you prefer. Dont put sheetrock behind easyboard, hardi or any other cement board. You can use 15lb roofing paper, or you can used 4 or 6mil clear poly behind whichever board you choose. The poly is easier to use and you can see through it to attach the board to the studs.

Question 3: I was planing on using the very small tiles for the shower floor, by doing so do I still have to worry about deflection? It's going to be a 3 1/2 by 6 foot shower. I'm assuming (hoping) that if I use smaller tiles, I don't really have to worry about them cracking due to deflection if I go with a stone instead of ceramic.

No deflection issues on your shower floor. Between the preslope and final mud bed you'll have from 2" to 3" or more of mud. You should not have any grout or tile cracking.

Question 4: I also want a bench. I was planning on framing it out, and having the shower liner go up the front of it, like the rest of the shower, would that be ok? Do I have to use a plywood or can I just put the hardibacker/easyboard over the studs? And does the shower liner have to completely cover the bench? Noble Company also has a bench that can be glued right before tiling. The slope floor it will cover is leveled with mortar placed down and glued to the hardibacker/easyboard. From the website, it is tile ready and although expensive it sits on top of the shower pan, so it eases my mind a bit. Does anyone recommend this? Thanks for all your help.

If you construct a bench from framed lumber, you'll need to cover it with plywood, then cement board, then a surface applied membrane like Redgard. You cant cover it with the pan membrane, as you'd put holes in it when you attached cement board. I had not seen the noble benches before so I took a look at them. While I have not used their benches, Ive used enough of their products to know they are a top notch company and Im sure their bench will do everything they say it will. You could also build a concrete block bench inside the shower pan. After the shower pan liner is installed and the cement board is installed, you build your bench with cinder block and masons mortar right on top of the pan liner. Been building them this way for many years and still do.

You may want to consider a Schluter Kerdi shower. Go to their website and check it out.

Thanks for all the info. Really a big help.